US Cross Country 2024

Road trips are practically stitched into Americans’ DNA with our still thriving car culture and romantic notions of the freedom of the open road. Great writers have regaled us with tales of cross-country adventures and Stu and I were especially enticed by the great journalist Charles Kuralt’s epic adventure across America and his appreciation of the small towns and out of the way places. While Stu’s first cross-country road trip was with his best friend Steve in 1964, mine was in 2022 when we drove a southern route to California and back. We waited for retirement so we’d have plenty of time for frequent stops. We enjoyed that trip so much that I began mapping out a trip across the northern states not long after we returned. We don’t usually travel to check off lists. We have no goal to visit x number of countries, hike in every national park, or anything like that. We mainly want to experience things that intrigue us, though we will admit to wanting to see all 50 U.S. states. So far we’ve found interesting things to see and do in all that we’ve visited, so it’s been worthwhile. West Virginia is the only state that Stu hasn’t seen and I still want to see WVA, Kentucky and Kansas. How can we miss a state that John Denver lauded as “almost heaven”? And Kentucky bourbon? Yes, please.

It was a good thing that I began planning so far in advance since I really needed all of that time to work out the logistics for a trip that ended up taking 65 days. While I appreciate the unbridled freedom of winging it and making decisions as you go, we both prefer a more structured approach to assure that we can see the places most important to us. On this trip we visited several national parks, and while there are places to stay outside the parks, we wanted accommodations within them, and that requires advance booking in most cases, especially very popular ones such as Yellowstone. U.S. National Park lodgings are usually overpriced and fairly basic, however we think it’s worth the cost to cut down on time getting into and around the parks, and the views are often spectacular. After working out the driving route the park lodges were the first accommodations I booked to be sure we could get them, and then I figured out the rest. As always, Google Maps was invaluable for estimating drive times, and despite the great distances (approx. 12,000 miles in total) and active itinerary, it was a mostly relaxing and very rewarding trip.

In addition to sightseeing, we were able to enjoy too brief time in Colorado with my beloved niece, Cheryl, her wonderful husband Rob, and their two adorable children, Natalie and Cameron. We also spent a couple of marvelous days in Idaho with Rebecca, a dear friend and daughter of Stu’s long-ago road trip buddy, and her husband Greg.

Some of the places didn’t live up to expectations, though we still found things to enjoy. Others matched or far exceeded expectations. If we had it to do over, I don’t believe that we’d skip any place entirely, though we might choose different accommodations or spend a bit more or less time in some areas. We stayed in a variety of accommodations, boutique hotels, chain hotels, inns, lodges, B&Bs, one Airbnb in Pittsburgh, and a tented camp in South Dakota.

We started off with a relatively short drive to Gettysburg, PA, site of the famous Civil War battle and President Abraham Lincoln’s most inspiring speech. This was a perfect beginning since it was one of the sites that impressed us far beyond our expectations. We found ourselves talking about it throughout our travels. The history is compelling and the national park exhibits and programs are designed to bring it alive in all its complexity. The beautiful inn where we stayed just added to our overall enjoyment.

On the way west we stopped in Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon, briefly detoured into northern California to see the giant redwood forests, then continued to coastal Oregon and into Washington. On the way back east we visited Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Indiana and Michigan. While we’d been to some of these states before, and a few of the cities, we had new experiences in all of them. We ended the trip in upstate New York with 3 days in Buffalo followed by 3 days in the scenic Finger Lakes region. We thought it might be fun to watch 4th of July fireworks over one of the Finger Lakes, but it turned out that the ones near our inn were held after we left. Although both cross-country trips were memorable experiences, we preferred the attractions of the northern route to the southern one.

The detailed itinerary is below with additional commentary about the locations and our assessment of the various lodgings, restaurants and attractions. Driving times are indicated after the location name.

WED MAY 1 GETTYSBURG, PA (3h15)

Gettysburg was an ideal stopping point on the way to Pittsburgh since we always wanted to tour the national park.

GETTYSBURG NATIONAL PARK 8 am - 5 pm

This was one of the sites that impressed us far beyond our expectations. We found ourselves talking about it throughout our travels. The history is compelling and the national park exhibits and programs are designed to bring it alive in all its complexity. Many interesting self-guided and guided tours are available.

INN AT WHITE OAK - Commander’s Quarters. Breakfast from 9 am

Beautiful woodland property with charming and comfortable accommodations and a delicious homemade breakfast. Our room was spacious and luxurious with a working fireplace and pastoral views.

FOOD 101 101 Chambersburg St. 11 am - 8 pm Attractive casual eatery with fresh, delicious food and terrific service. We had a late lunch and just skipped dinner. Highly recommend the Vegetable Powerhouse sandwich

THU - SUN MAY 2 - 5 PITTSBURGH, PA (3h30)

Stu’s parents grew up in Pittsburgh so he was well acquainted with the city, while this was my first visit. Not one but three rivers run through it (Allegheny, Ohio and Monongahela) and there are scenic overlooks along the aptly named Grandview Avenue. I might be tempted to live there just to be able to say Monongahela a lot. We stayed for four days because we spent a whole day outside town viewing Fallingwater, Polymath Park and the Westmoreland Museum, and found that 3 days was just about right to see the rest of the attractions that interested us in the city. Restaurants were good but not outstanding.

CARNEGIE MUSEUM OF ART & NATURAL HISTORY 4400 Forbes Ave. Cl. Tue. 10- 5, Thu. 10 - 8 Wonderful wide-ranging collection from various eras displayed in a majestic building.

THE FRICK 7227 Reynolds St. 10 - 5; Clayton House, Car & Carriage - The art collection is excellent, if not quite as grand as The Frick in NYC, but still well worth seeing. The estate includes, gardens, a home and a well preserved collection of antique carriages and cars.

ANDY WARHOL MUSEUM 117 Sandusky St. Thu/Sat 10-5, Fri 10-10

We developed a greater appreciation for Warhol’s work and life in this quirky museum.

RANDYLAND 1501 Arch St. Like a junkyard on LSD. An explosion of color with murals and eccentric objects in a building lot on the north side of town.  Fun to explore.

MEXICAN WAR STREETS Funky historic neighborhood where Randyland is located.

MATTRESS FACTORY 509 Jacksonia St. 11 - 6 Contemporary art. Changing exhibitions so your experience may vary. We saw some interesting whimsical works and Yayoi Kusama infinity rooms.

FALLINGWATER (1h15) 1491 Mill Run Rd. Mill Run - In-depth Guided Tour

Frank Lloyd Wright’s deservedly most renowned building is awe-inspiring and the tour is exceptional. We learned not just about the architecture but about Wright and his family.

POLYMATH PARK 187 Evergreen Lane Acme - Lunch Tour - 4 historic houses, 2 designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and 2 by his apprentice Peter Berndtson. We took a tour of the houses that included a very good lunch in TREETOPS, the handsome on-site restaurant.

THE WESTMORELAND MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART (1 hr)

221 N. Main St. Greensburg Wed - Sun 10 - 5 We had some extra time after touring Fallingwater and Polymath Park so we stopped at the museum on our drive back to the city. It’s not worth driving out to see just the museum, but it was worth a stop along the route.

AIRBNB 5421 Kentucky Ave. Shadyside  A lovely home in a quiet residential neighborhood with lots of character and all of the amenities you might need or want. Pittsburgh is spread out so no neighborhood is near everything, but we were still able to walk to many attractions from here. We made our own breakfasts and cooked dinner one night of our stay. We would definitely stay here again if visiting Pittsburgh.

ALTIUS 1230 Grandview Ave. Popular fine dining restaurant high on Mt. Washington with wide-ranging views of the city. In our opinion the food doesn’t match their elevated reputation, however it’s an attractive space and it might be worth paying for the view.

MORCILLA  3519 Butler St. Spanish shareable small and large plates in a cozy vibrant space. This was our favorite meal in Pittsburgh, friendly service and delicious food at a reasonable price.

MON MAY 6 CLEVELAND, OH (2h5)

I’d been to Cleveland before for business and had no time for sightseeing but always wanted to visit the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. We stayed in a hotel downtown and the streets were very empty and quiet even during the day on a Monday. It was a touch unsettling. We easily walked to the museum and the area around it, but didn’t find much of interest. Perhaps there are other parts of town with more going on.

ROCK & ROLL HALL OF FAME 1100 E. 9th St.

This is a very popular museum, primarily jammed with people who grew up during the golden age of rock & roll (aka old folks like us). There are lots of fun exhibits, videos and memorabilia for those looking for a jolt of nostalgia.

METROPOLITAN AT THE 9  2017 E. 9th St. The Central - breakfast from 6:30 am. Tatiana at the front desk was very welcoming and went out of her way to be helpful. We were pleased to be allowed a very early check-in as well as receiving a room upgrade. The hotel has a lot of character. Our room was clean and comfortable, and everything worked well. The valet service was fast. We thought that service at breakfast could have been friendlier, and the food was only fair, so we’d skip the restaurant.

ACQUA DI LUCA 500 W. St. Clair Ave. Italian seafood restaurant downtown with modern decor and good food.

TUE. MAY 7 COLUMBUS, OH (2h)

Columbus is the state capital but, like Cleveland, the downtown area didn’t seem very vibrant, though it was clean and modern. While we often visit state houses, this one didn’t look inviting so we skipped it.

COLUMBUS MUSEUM OF ART 480 E. Broad St. 10 - 5

Worth a visit to Columbus, the museum has a broad, if not deep, collection  of painting, sculpture and objects and several true masterworks.

HOTEL LEVEQUE 50 W. Broad St. Great choice in Columbus. The excellence began with Sully, a thoroughly delightful young man who parked our car and assisted us with our luggage.  During our stay we interacted with 3 people at the front desk and they were all terrific, very welcoming, efficient and helpful. The art deco style is attractive, the room was clean, comfortable and functional with a comfy bed, great shower and lots of space for clothes and toiletries.

LINDEY’S 169 E. Beck St. At this point in the trip this was our favorite dinner spot. It’s in a lovely neighborhood, service is attentive and personable, the dining rooms are appealing and the food is excellent. We thought it was a good value as well.

WED MAY 8 - FRI MAY 10 INDIANAPOLIS, IN (2h40)

We had a good time in Indianapolis. The city is very spread out so a car is necessary. Unfortunately the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum was undergoing renovations and wasn’t open, nor was there a race event at the Speedway that we could attend, and that was something that we had hoped to experience. In retrospect we might have spent only 2 days here, though we did miss Rize, the breakfast place, for the rest of the trip. Except for breakfast we found the restaurants to be largely disappointing.

INDIANA WAR MEMORIAL & MUSEUM 1 Monument Cir 9-5 Cl. Mon-Tue. Beautiful architecture, interesting exhibits and admission is free.

EITELJORG MUSEUM OF AMERICAN INDIANS & WESTERN ART 500 W. Washington St. 10-5 We’re always interested in learning more about Native American culture and art so we greatly enjoyed this collection

KURT VONNEGUT MUSEUM & LIBRARY 543 Indiana Ave. 10 - 6, Cl Tue. We’ve read just about everything Vonnegut wrote so we were excited about this. While we learned much more about his life, the museum overall was small and disappointing.

NEWFIELDS - INDIANAPOLIS MUSEUM OF ART 38th & Michigan Wed 11 - 5, Thu & Fri 11 - 8 Beautiful campus with well tended gardens. The art museum’s eclectic collection is worth a trip to Indianapolis.

INDIANAPOLIS ART CENTER 820 E. 67th St. 9 - 6 Contemporary art center with classes and changing exhibits

CENTRAL CANAL WALKWAY Serene walking path downtown

CARMEL ARTS & DESIGN DISTRICT Fun neighborhood with galleries, shops, restaurants, street art and a private museum in a volunteer firehouse displaying vintage firetrucks. The collector of the trucks was friendly and happy to tell us all about them.

IRONWORKS HOTEL 2721 E. 86th St. Phenomenal hotel! We arrived very early and Terri at the front desk and the head of housekeeping made a special effort to get our room ready for an early check-in. We went off to breakfast and by the time we were finished we were able to settle in to the room. We greatly appreciated the friendly and caring service, the fun steampunk decor and the clean, well equipped and comfortable room. There’s lots of parking so we skipped the valet. It’s not inexpensive, but worth the cost. Although the location is a bit out of the way, we’d happily stay here again.

RIZE Exceptional breakfast restaurant in the hotel. We had planned to also try a different breakfast joint nearby but just kept coming back here. We were crazy about the vegetarian omelette with the side salad. It wouldn’t normally occur to us to eat salad for breakfast, but this salad was so delicious and perfectly dressed. Everything we tried was excellent and service was friendly and attentive.

PROVISION Restaurant in the Ironworks Hotel. Like the rest of the hotel the design is very attractive and service was great, but the food fell far short of the mark.

VIDA 601 E. New York St. Upscale restaurant in a sleek appealing space. The food looked better than it tasted. It wasn’t bad by any means, just underwhelming for the price point.

LATE HARVEST KITCHEN 8605 River Crossing Blvd We expected much better, nice space but mediocre food.

SAT MAY 11 CHICAGO, IL (3h -1h TZ)

Stu and I have been to Chicago several times and always enjoy the city. We were originally planning to spend more time here but decided to visit Springfield instead and are happy with that decision. The weather during our stay was glorious so it was perfect for strolling around town.

ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO 111 S. Michigan Ave. 11 - 5 Except for during business trips, I don’t think we’ve ever visited Chicago without going to their world class art museum. A true treasure trove and always a great pleasure.

MILLENNIUM PARK On such a beautiful day it’s lovely to stroll around the park. Unfortunately Cloud Gate (The Bean) was behind fencing with some work being done. We could still see it, but couldn’t get close.

CHICAGO CULTURAL CENTER 78 E. Washington St. 10 - 5 We’d never been in this landmark building before and it was well worth visiting with two stunning Tiffany stained glass domes and other decorative features.

FOUR SEASONS 120 E. Delaware Pl. We always wanted a hotel room with a view of Lake Michigan so since it was only one night, we sprung for one. The view, including sunrise, was worth the cost. Service was excellent and breakfast was very good.

ORIOLE 661 W. Walnut Street We figured that while in Chicago we should try one of its highly celebrated restaurants. After much consideration we chose Oriole. I wish we had chosen differently. The space is attractive, service is very solicitous, and there is a lot of creativity, ritual and surprise around the presentation, but ultimately we didn’t think that the taste of the food delivered the wow that a 2-Michelin starred restaurant should, and at this price point you expect it.

SUN MAY 12 - MON MAY 13 SPRINGFIELD, IL (3h10) We’d been to Chicago a few times so we decided to spend more time in Springfield, the capital of Illinois, and the town where Abraham Lincoln worked as a lawyer and married before becoming President. I wondered whether 2 days would be too much, but we might have found things to do during a third. It’s not the most aesthetically pleasing town, but there’s a lot to see, including another wonderful Frank Lloyd Wright home. Viewing Lincoln’s final resting place was inexpressibly moving. We easily walked to the major attractions in town, however it’s best to drive to the cemetery where Lincoln is entombed.

LINCOLN MONUMENT Oak Ridge Cemetery 1500 Monument Ave. 9 - 5

In our opinion it’s worth traveling to Springfield just to see Lincoln’s tomb and pay homage to the USA’s greatest President.

ABRAHAM LINCOLN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY & MUSEUM 212 N 6th St. 9 - 5 Unlike other presidential libraries that we’ve visited, an appointment is required to view the Lincoln documents and artifacts there, but there’s a museum across the way that affords a great opportunity to learn more about our 16th President and his remarkable life, and it displays an original hand-written copy of the Gettysburg Address and other Lincoln personal items.

LINCOLN HOME 426 S 7th St. 8:30 - 5  Part of the National Park system, you can enter Lincoln’s home only on a free guided tour, but you need to get timed tickets at the visitor’s center. The tour is informative and interesting and in the 4 block area around the home there are historical markers and additional historic homes to tour.

ILLINOIS STATE CAPITOL 401 S. 2nd St. Sun 9 - 3, Mon 8 - 4 A magnificent state capitol and we found the tour to be highly worthwhile.

OLD CAPITOL BUILDING 1 N. Old State Capitol Plaza You can tour the old state capitol however it was closed for repairs when we were there, so we only saw the exterior.

ILLINOIS STATE MUSEUM 502 S. Spring St. 9 - 4:30 Sun 12 - 4:30

Exhibits highlighting the art, nature, geography, history and culture of Illinois. Worth a look.

DANA-THOMAS HOUSE 301 E. Lawrence Ave. Daily tours at 9:30, 11, 1:30 & 3 pm Built by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1902-04 for socialite and philanthropist Susan Lawrence Dana, this was one of the most unique and beautiful Wright homes that we’ve seen. Sadly, photos aren’t permitted. The tour is full of fascinating details about the house and the owner’s life. Get tickets in advance because the number of visitors per tour is limited.

INN AT 835 835 So. 2nd St. Breakfast 8 - 10 Overall we had a lovely stay. The inn is well located. The Wisteria Suite was spacious and charmingly decorated with a large bathroom and a private patio. The bed was comfortable and there were plenty of towels and a good shower. We didn’t use the jetted tub, but it’s big enough for two. The owners were very friendly and helpful and the freshly baked cookies that they delivered each evening were delicious! We didn’t want to spoil our appetites for dinner so we skipped the evening wine and cheese that is offered. Breakfast was simple but adequate.

COOPER’S HAWK 2501 Wabash Ave. There weren’t many restaurants open on a Sunday evening, and unfortunately this was Mother’s Day so the restaurant was overbooked. We waited nearly an hour after our reservation time to be seated. We probably would have been better off just filling up on the wine and cheese at our inn. Our server was charming but the kitchen obviously couldn’t keep up with the crowds, so it took a long time to be served. The food was pretty good, the wine mediocre. Definitely couldn’t recommend this one.

VELE 3241 West Iles Avenue - Stylish restaurant with a primarily Italian menu. Service was terrific and the food was delicious.

TUE MAY 14 CEDAR RAPIDS, IA (3h40)

Cedar Rapids was mainly a convenience stop for distance, though we were interested in the art museum, yet we ended up liking it very much. The town is appealing, the people were congenial, and we enjoyed the museum, street art, our hotel and the hotel restaurant.

CEDAR RAPIDS MUSEUM OF ART 410 3rd Ave. SE 12 - 4 Fun architecture that melds classical with modern. The people working there couldn’t be more inviting and we ended up chatting quite awhile with the front desk folks. The museum owns the largest collection of works by Grant Wood of American Gothic fame, an artist we greatly appreciate (our favorite painting of his is The Midnight Ride of Paul Revere at the Met in NYC), so we were most excited about seeing his paintings. While there’s a whole section devoted to Wood, there was a limited number of his works on display. It turns out that they don’t show all those in the collection at the same time. We had just seen American Gothic again at the Art Institute of Chicago, and were happy to see those that were hung here, which we’d never seen before, and to learn more about his life. His quirky humor shows up in many of his works. We also enjoyed the rest of the museum’s exhibits and the chance to discover artists we were unfamiliar with.

THE HOTEL AT KIRKWOOD CENTER 7725 Kirkwood Blvd SW, Breakfast from 6:30 The hotel is located in a major conference center and is mostly business focused. Normally we try to avoid these types of hotels, which can lack character, however we were pleasantly surprised at how much we liked this place. There was plenty of free parking, the young lady at the front desk was delightful, the room was modern, clean and comfortable and they have a very good restaurant. It provided excellent value for the cost.

THE CLASS ACT The name of the restaurant at the Kirkwood says it all. The space is appealing, service was personable and attentive, and the food was tasty and reasonably priced. We enjoyed both dinner and breakfast here.

WED MAY 15 - THU MAY 16 DES MOINES (3h50)

Des Moines was one of our favorite cities during this trip. It’s the state capital with a handsome capitol building, it has a thriving art scene and excellent restaurants. We also enjoyed just walking all over town. We liked most everything about the city except the hotel we stayed in.

FORT DODGE (2h20 from Cedar Rapids)

Although it was out of our way, we drove to Fort Dodge on our way from Cedar Rapids to Des Moines specifically to see the Van Helten mural, then continued on into the city. It was also a good way to see more of the countryside. Driving around rural areas of Iowa we could see how the landscape inspired some of Grant Wood’s paintings.

GUIDO VAN HELTEN SILO MURAL 727 Hawkeye Ave.

We first discovered this Australian mural artist in Nashville and his work is always worth a detour. He paints monumental murals of real people from the local area with great sensitivity and skill on grain silos or buildings. While we don’t usually travel to check off lists, we might seriously consider traveling to find more of his artwork. We recently saw another of his silo murals in Aalborg, Denmark.

DES MOINES (1h30 from Ft. Dodge)

PAPPAJOHN SCULPTURE PARK 1330 Grand Ave. Sunrise - midnight

Fortunately we had mild sunny weather during our stay so we could fully enjoy these wonderful outdoor sculptures. Well-known international artists are represented, such as Keith Haring, Louise Bourgeoise, Yayoi Kusama, Ai Weiwei, Barry Flanagan and Robert Indiana, as well as others we were less familiar with, such as American sculptor Deborah Butterfield, and pleased to get to know. This was a major highlight in Des Moines.

IOWA STATE CAPITOL 1007 E Grand Ave. 8 - 4:45 The building, set on a hill overlooking the city, is magnificent and the interior is as opulent as the exterior. Taking tours of capitol buildings is a great way to learn more about the state history in an entertaining way, and there’s usually plenty of beautiful art and architecture to appreciate.

STATE HISTORICAL MUSEUM 600 E. Locust St. 9 - 4:30 Situated near the capitol building, the museum describes Iowan history and exhibits an extensive collection of historical artifacts. It’s not as compelling as the capitol building but fine to spend a bit of time while in the neighborhood.

HOYT SHERMAN PLACE 1501 Woodland Ave. M-F 9 - 5 The complex includes a mansion built in 1877, an art gallery, and a theater that is still in operation. You can explore on your own or pay a modest fee for a guided tour. Nice to see if time permits.

SALISBURY HOUSE & GARDENS 4025 Tonawanda Dr. Wed - Sun 10 - 5, Guided tours 10:30, 1 & 3 (1h15) Completed in 1928 this sumptuous 28,000 sq. ft. house boasts 42 rooms on 12 acres of woodland with 9,000 sq. ft. of gardens. The estate was modeled on The King’s House in Salisbury England which was originally built in the 13th C and remodeled in later centuries. Salisbury House features authentic 16th C English oak woodwork, rafters that date back to Shakespearean times, antique furniture, objects and tapestries, an extensive art and crafts collection, and old property and family photos. We thought that the guided tour was well worth the time and money, though you can take a self-guided tour as well.

DES MOINES ART CENTER 4700 Grand Ave Wed 10 - 4, Thu 10 - 7 The city’s premier art museum is housed in a handsome modern building and contains an extraordinary collection of painting, drawings, photos, sculptures and art objects from local and international artists. We had an enlightening conversation with a docent. Another significant highlight.

SURETY HOTEL 206 6th Ave. This hotel didn’t fully live up to our expectations. It was stylish and cozy but lacking in some amenities. The neighborhood was a bit dodgy, though that didn’t prevent us from walking everywhere. Parking is in a nearby garage and fortunately they provide a discount because otherwise the garage rates are exorbitant. We had a King room which had adequate space, though not enough storage for belongings. The bathroom was tight but laid out well enough to take advantage of the available space. There was inadequate coverage at the front desk so there could be long wait times, and they weren’t always very helpful. Breakfasts weren’t included and what you could buy at the lobby coffee bar was inadequate unless you were just looking for a light snack. On the second morning we left early and had breakfast at our next hotel. The hotel was nice enough, but offered poor value for what we paid.

CLYDE’S FINE DINER 111 E. Grand Ave. We adored this restaurant. The decor is fabulous, evoking  a 1950’s diner but updated with modern style. Everyone we met was friendly and helpful, and we even learned about the restaurant’s namesake from the manager. Service was attentive and pleasant. The joint was jumping on a Tuesday night, so the noise level could be lively (read loud), but we didn’t mind once the food started arriving. Totally scrumptious food and a very good value.

801 CHOPHOUSE 801 Grand Ave. Ste. 200 Excellent restaurant with a typical steakhouse atmosphere, outstanding service, and well prepared dishes. We were too full for dessert but enjoyed everything else.

FRI MAY 17 - SAT MAY 18 OMAHA, NE (2 hr)

We greatly enjoyed Omaha. The first day we explored the city. The second day we drove to Lincoln, the capital of Nebraska, with a stop at the Aerospace museum on the way. Lincoln isn’t as appealing as Omaha so we’re glad that we used Omaha as our base, though the State Capitol building was a major highlight, so it was worth allotting time to see it. There was a nice park opposite our hotel by the river and it was relaxing to stroll around there. We appreciated some colorful street art and the fanciful sculptures outside the convention center, though we were very disappointed that the Joslyn Art Museum was closed for renovation and expansion for a couple of years. We’ll just have to return.

FRIDAY MAY 17 OMAHA

OLD MARKET Lively district with formerly industrial brick buildings, cobblestone streets, galleries, shops and cafés.

PIONEER COURAGE PARK - 1601 Dodge St. Bronze sculptures depicting wagon trains heading to new frontiers and the courageous pioneers who forcibly displaced Native Americans and Mexicans from their lands. Oops, I meant to say who valiantly settled the West. However you frame it, the sculptures are well rendered and worth seeing.

DURHAM MUSEUM 801 S 10th St. 10 - 4 The splendid old Union Train Station was converted into a Western heritage museum featuring replicas of community institutions, old train cars, model trains and historical artifacts. I love vintage trains so I particularly enjoyed these exhibits.

SATURDAY MAY 18 LINCOLN (1h from Omaha)

STRATEGIC AIR COMMAND & AEROSPACE MUSEUM (30 min.) 28210 West Park Hwy, Ashland Daily 9 - 5 If you’re interested at all in military aircraft and the aerospace industry, this is a must-see museum. The building’s architecture and the collection are equally impressive. Not only are the exhibits absorbing, but there are all kinds of fun things to do. I got to sit in a flight simulator and pilot a fighter jet. It was a blast! And I didn’t even crash.

NEBRASKA STATE CAPITOL 1445 K St. Sat 10 - 5

Nebraska’s state capitol building is outstanding with unique architecture compared to the typical domed capitol style and an interior lavishly decorated with highly symbolic artwork. You have to take the free tour to fully appreciate the artistry and significance.

SUNKEN GARDENS  2600 D St. 5 am - 11 pm We had enough spare time in Lincoln to take a walk around the Sunken Gardens. It’s a relatively small park, but very pretty, especially in the spring when we visited.

THE FARNHAM 1299 Farnham St. This hotel exceeded our expectations. The entire team is helpful and congenial. We decided to self park, which is easy and convenient, but the bellmen assisting us with our baggage were efficient and personable. They don’t provide laundry service on Saturday, so they offered us free breakfast both days to compensate for the inconvenience. The room was clean, attractive, highly functional and had nice city views. We especially appreciated the bathroom which featured a great shower, separate toilet stall, quality bath products and makeup mirror. It’s well located so we could walk to many attractions. Breakfasts were very good. There was a considerable amount of street noise at late hours. Locals seem to favor super-loud car and motorcycle exhausts and like to cruise. It reminded us of American Graffiti. While the hotel can’t control that, they might have been able to improve soundproofing. We stayed during the weekend, so it’s possible that it’s quieter during the week, though it still didn’t spoil our stay.

YOSHITOMO 6011 Maple St. We craved sushi and weren’t expecting much in Omaha, so this was a delightful surprise. It’s an intimate space with attentive and engaging service and the food and sake were wonderful. We sat at the chef’s counter and had the omakase. It was inventive while still capturing the essence of a traditional sushi-ya. Best of all, every bite was delicious, not just different for the sake of novelty.

THE BOILER ROOM 1110 Jones St. Popular restaurant with cool industrial-chic decor and an ambitious menu that they don’t quite execute as well as they think they do. We had a good meal but the quality didn’t justify the pricing.

SUN MAY 19 NORTH PLATTE, NE (4h)

We needed a resting place between Omaha and Denver and there were enough interesting sights to justify an overnight visit. We were glad that we stopped here.

BUFFALO BILL RANCH STATE PARK 2921 Scouts Rest Ranch Rd. Wed - Sun 9-5 Extensive property that includes William Cody’s home from 1886 - 1913, furnishings, personal items, barns, outbuildings and a field with a few live buffalo. There’s also a collection of antique carriages, covered wagons  and memorabilia from his famous Wild West Show.

GOLDEN SPIKE TOWER 1249 No. Homestead Rd. Daily 9 - 5 The 8 floor tower provides a wide-ranging view of the world’s largest rail yard, the Union Pacific’s Bailey Yard. There are some historical exhibits to add more context about the location. Even given our love of trains we didn’t expect to enjoy this as much as we did.

CODY PARK RAILROAD MUSEUM 1601 N. Jeffers St. 12 - 6 We couldn’t miss seeing the only Challenger 3900 series steam locomotive on public display. It’s a very small museum but you get to walk around inside the train and view some historical railway artifacts. The guy working there was very friendly and eager to share information.

LA QUINTA  2600 Eagles Wings Pl. Chain hotels were our only choice and we’d had a good experience with a La Quinta in Holbrook, AZ during our last cross-country trip, so we booked this one. We know for the future that you can’t count on consistent quality with this brand. This wins the prize for the lowest quality hotel of the trip, though not the most uncomfortable lodgings.

PAL’S BREWING CO. 4520 S. Buffalo Bill Ave. 11 am - 9 pm A rustic brewery serving a variety of their own craft beers as well as a pub style menu. It was packed on a Sunday evening. The pizza was pretty good with a thin crust that almost tasted like a cracker and some creative toppings. I suspect it was our best choice in town and we were satisfied. Neither of us drinks beer so we can’t assess how good theirs were.

MON MAY 20 AURORA, CO (3h50 - 1h TZ) 

Happy time with family, though far too brief. We didn’t bother doing any sightseeing in Denver and just cooked and hung out at home with my niece, Cheryl, and her family.

TUE MAY 21 SCOTTSBLUFF, NE (3h40)

We headed back through Nebraska and caught a few attractions in the area. Our absolute favorite was Carhenge. We had been underwhelmed by Cadillac Ranch in Texas and thought this also might be a snooze, but it was a creative delight. We stopped off there early in the morning on our way to South Dakota and had the site to ourselves for quite a while.

SCOTTS BLUFF NATIONAL MONUMENT 190276 Old Oregon Trail, Gering 8:30 - 4:30 800 ft. sandstone and clay bluffs above the North Platte River. There are a variety of hiking trails to view the formations from different angles and it’s possible to climb to the top, which we didn’t do.

CHIMNEY ROCK 9822 County Rd 75 W Bayard Daily 9 - 4 A unique clay and sandstone formation around 300 ft. high that served as a famous landmark to pioneers along the Oregon Trail.

CARHENGE 2151 Co. Rd 59 A whimsical recreation of Stonehenge using junked cars in a field in Alliance, NE. There are additional zany sculptures on the property to marvel at along with the main attraction. This was way more fun than we had imagined and well worth a detour.

FAIRFIELD INN & SUITES 902 Winter Creek Dr. While still a low tier property, this was much better than the La Quinta and comfortable for our brief stay.

FLYOVER BREWING CO. 1824 Broadway 11 am - 11 pm Another craft brewery serving pizza and other casual dishes though in a more upscale, modern space. We had a tasty, inexpensive meal here.

WED MAY 22 - FRI MAY 24 KEYSTONE, SD (3h28)

3 days was a good amount of time to spend in South Dakota. I expected to like Mount Rushmore, but it’s even more majestic than I envisioned (Stu had seen it before). The Crazy Horse Monument is incredible and we enjoyed Custer State Park and the Badlands National Park very much. Wall Drugs is a well-known tourist trap, but you kinda have to see it.

CUSTER STATE PARK - Wildlife Loop Rd. After the drive from Nebraska, we started our exploration at Custer State Park. There’s a scenic loop drive from which it’s also possible to spot wildlife. This was the first place where we saw large herds of American bison, including adorable calves, commonly referred to as red dogs due to their reddish-orange coats. We also saw herds of Pronghorn, an American antelope, and mountain goats. The park is worth checking out.

MOUNT RUSHMORE NATIONAL MONUMENT Visitor Center 8 am - Four iconic presidents (Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt) carved into the granite mountain face in the Black Hills. We arrived very early to enjoy the site before the crowds started showing up and later went to the Visitor Center once it opened. There are easy trails that allow you to view the sculpture from different angles, and interesting exhibitions about the project and Gutzon Borglum, the chief sculptor. I expected a lot yet this still exceeded my expectations.

CRAZY HORSE MEMORIAL 12151 Ave of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse 8 - 7 The monumental carving of Lakota warrior Crazy Horse started in 1948 and continues to this day, still only partially realized. The work that has been completed, basically Crazy Horse’s face and part of one arm and hand, is spectacular. When finished (if?), he’ll be sitting on a horse and the carving will be 563 ft./171.6 m high and 641 ft./195 m long. His face alone is 87.5 ft/26.6 m tall. By comparison the faces of the Presidents on Mt. Rushmore are 60 ft./18 m tall. There are different tours you can take, but we paid extra for a tour that got us closer to the memorial and it was well worth the cost, especially since the project is entirely funded by private donations and the admissions and tour fees. We also watched a performance of Native American dances. A major highlight of the trip.

BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK I-90 exit 131 The Badlands are a wonderland of fanciful rock formations, ridges and canyons formed from layers of sandstone, limestone, clay, mudstone, shale and volcanic ash. The Badlands Loop Road (Highway 240) includes overlooks that reveal all of the park’s main features, and there are other driving roads and hiking trails as well. It’s truly a marvelous sight, though quite crowded even on a weekday in May.

SOUTH DAKOTA STATE RAILROAD MUSEUM - Features a striking Black Hills Central Railroad steam-powered locomotive built in 1919.

UNDER CANVAS MT RUSHMORE Keystone, SD Stu and I are no strangers to “glamping” and I’d read glowing reviews of the Under Canvas properties, so we thought it might be  fun to try this one. It can be cold in this environment and the small stoves in the tents are inadequate to heat them. When it was cold and windy the stove barely threw enough heat to reach the bed, much less the bathroom. If you added too much wood, smoke would get into the tent. Stu wasn’t happy to be constantly tending the fire and it still went out overnight. While we were warm wearing layers under the blankets, you have to arise to a freezing room and the bathroom never was warm even with a full fire going. We could shower in the afternoon but that cuts into sightseeing and activities. Yes, it’s more comfortable than actual camping, but it costs as much as a luxury hotel, so it’s a poor value. We felt that the food quality and selection could be greatly improved and was also overpriced. The dining room was very cold much of the time so we tried to find a table under a heat lamp, but they were limited. You could go into town to eat but then you navigate a truly awful rutted road to the camp at night. There are quiet hours, but we found that noise often disturbed our peace and tranquility. On the positive side, everyone we dealt with was helpful and friendly and the view of Mt. Rushmore from the deck is inspiring, especially lit up at night.

SAT MAY 25 DEVIL’S TOWER, WY (2h30)

We felt that we had to see the tower forever memorialized in Close Encounters of the Third Kind, so we had modest expectations, but this was one of the natural attractions that was far more entrancing than we thought it would be. We also loved the rustic lodge we stayed in.

DEADWOOD, SD (1h) We spent a few hours in Deadwood on our way to Wyoming. During the 1870’s gold rush Deadwood was a boom town that welcomed Wild West legends like Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, Seth Bullock and Charlie Utter, whose gravesites we viewed in the Mount Moriah Cemetery (Boot Hill). Hickok’s infamous murder by Jack McCall while playing poker in a saloon is reenacted for free throughout the day, along with other gunfights and historical events. The main street retains its 19th C atmosphere, though we noticed that most of the bars had small casinos in them, a modern nod to the town’s gambling history. There are interesting historical and geological exhibits in the Adams Museum and we enjoyed the eclectic collection of goods in a store on main street with fanciful hats, artwork, motorcycles and more. The town feels overly touristy, almost like a movie set or theme park, however we had fun while learning some history, especially the real stories about characters that featured in the compelling Deadwood TV Series. You can take a stagecoach ride or hear music performances, but we were satisfied with the time we spent and wouldn’t have wanted to overnight here.

DEVIL’S TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT 24 hrs. Composed of a rare igneous rock, phonolite porphyry, the tower rises 867 ft./264 m from base to summit. Close up it looks as if it’s made of thousands of hexagonal rock columns and scientists still debate how it was formed. It’s truly amazing to see. We had great views from the lodge and also hiked around it early in the morning. There’s an easy trail that circumnavigates the base and those intrepid enough can climb it. There were several climbers staying at the lodge while we were there. Yet another unexpected highlight of the trip.

DEVIL’S TOWER LODGE 37 W Rd SR 110 The Windows Room

Everyone we interacted with before arriving and at the lodge was friendly and helpful. We chose it for its proximity to Devil’s Tower, but also for its quirky character and we were pleased that it fully met our expectations. The Windows room has charming rustic decor and the view of the tower is captivating! It was very comfortable and quiet. You have to sign up for the home cooked dinner in advance and it was delicious. We especially enjoyed the opportunity to converse with other travelers during meals.

SUN MAY 26 BUFFALO, WY (2h10)

Adorable town with a terrific historic hotel. We wanted to visit the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, but felt that it was too long to drive there from Devil’s Tower and then continue on to Cody in one day, so we spent the night in Buffalo first. It was a lucky choice because we really liked it. It felt like the old West without being theme-park-like, like Deadwood. There are lovely murals and statues in town that reward some walking around.

CRAZY WOMAN CANYON DRIVE A thirteen mile dirt road following Crazy Woman Creek through a scenic canyon with hiking trails. There are different legends surrounding the name which reference a woman, either Native American or white, driven mad by grief after a family tragedy. We had some free time while waiting for our hotel tour, so we just drove through to admire the landscape, but didn’t take any hikes.

THE HISTORIC OCCIDENTAL HOTEL TOUR We had pre-booked an afternoon tour of the hotel for a modest fee, so we headed there right after the canyon drive. The hotel was founded in 1880 and hosted many famous guests, such as Buffalo Bill, Calamity Jane, Teddy Roosevelt and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Our guide shared loads of fascinating information about its history and the photos and artifacts in it.

THE HISTORIC OCCIDENTAL HOTEL 10 N. Main St. 

Clear Creek Suite - The hotel has been lovingly restored to its former grandeur with decor and artifacts from its heyday in the 1880’s, so you feel the real character of the old West. We stayed in a spacious, quiet comfortable suite with a clawfoot tub and views of Clear Creek for a very reasonable rate. They provided a parking pass so we could park on the street in front of the hotel, which is well located for strolls around town.

THE VIRGINIAN The saloon and restaurant in the hotel serves up delicious food and offers live music some nights. Our server was efficient, attentive and personable and the atmosphere was lively. The clientele was mostly locals along with a few hotel guests.

BUSY BEE breakfast from 7 am. The breakfast restaurant attached to the hotel was as charming as the hotel. We liked that most of the early morning patrons were clearly regulars, some actual cowboys, coming for a meal and a chat with friends and the servers. The vibe was convivial, service was friendly and the food was very good, an ideal combination.

MON MAY 27 CODY, WY (3h38, 1h20 from Thermopolis)

We knew we would like Cody, however it was even more enjoyable than we had anticipated. Some people base themselves here for visits to Yellowstone National Park, but the closest entrance is about an hour away, so we decided to enjoy the town separately from the park. The town is neat, attractive and somewhat walkable with plenty of hotels, restaurants, cafés and shops, as well as an excellent museum. When we arrived our room wasn’t ready yet, so the kind people at the inn directed us to a coffee shop around the corner where we grabbed a coffee. While sitting at an outdoor table, a guy at the next table dressed in cowboy gear pulled out a guitar and began singing. He was talented and we appreciated the entertainment before heading back to check in to our room. We were too early in the season for the rodeo, but during the summer, there’s that.

WYOMING DINOSAUR CENTER 110 Carter Ranch Rd Thermopolis 10 - 5 (2h16 from Buffalo) In addition to viewing a sizable collection of fossils and dinosaur skeletons, you can sign up for hands-on paleontological experiences, such as participating in a dig for bones. A Supersaurus, that the museum named Jimbo, is the largest most complete sauropod skeleton ever found. There’s plenty of interest here for children as well as adults. Well worth the stop.

BUFFALO BILL CENTER OF THE WEST 720 Sheridan Ave. 8 am - 6 pm We had no idea how extraordinary Buffalo Bill Cody was before touring this very informative and entertaining museum. He was a complex man of his era with some notable flaws, but in addition to being a successful showman he and his family helped enslaved people escape via the Underground Railroad, he championed women’s rights, and he insisted upon a diverse cast in his shows with pay equality. There are exhibits about Cody as well as Native American artifacts, paintings about the West and various historical objects. You need at least 2-3 hours to see everything and it’s worth the time. Yet another highlight.

CHAMBERLIN INN 1032 12th St. The people working here are wonderful! We felt so welcomed and well cared for. The inn is not just historic and charismatic, the facilities and amenities are terrific. The towels were so soft, the water pressure in the shower was amazing, the mattress, bed linens and pillows were super comfortable, and we had a lovely view of a flowering tree and the garden. It was peaceful and we slept soundly. We lucked out with glorious weather and were able to sit outside in their peaceful garden after returning from dinner to enjoy the evening. It was idyllic. There’s free parking on the street near the inn. Breakfast was light but adequate. One of our favorite places to stay during the trip.

CASSIE’S STEAKHOUSE 214 Yellowstone Ave. We couldn’t visit Wyoming and not try the local beef, so we booked a table at Cassie’s. It’s clearly popular with locals and there’s live music and an old West atmosphere. Our server was terrific and the food was delicious. It’s on the outskirts of town so we had to drive there, but there was plenty of parking.

TUE MAY 28 - SAT JUN 1 YELLOWSTONE NP

We stayed in 3 different lodges in the park in order to explore each area more easily without as much daily driving, and that turned out to be a useful strategy. Our favorite section was the geothermal area with all of the geysers, mudpots, fumaroles, travertine terraces and brilliantly colored hot springs. We saw a variety of wildlife, especially birds, though not as much as we’d hoped. The most exciting animals, such as wolves and bears, were usually at a great distance, and there were almost always large groups of people gathered to watch. We hiked for hours most days and appreciated the diversity of the landscape. Despite crowds in the most popular areas, we still found quiet places.

TUE MAY 28 LAKE YELLOWSTONE (2h)

We dropped our bags at the hotel and went out to explore. Unfortunately we were too early in the season for a boat ride, however we hiked Pelican Creek and Storm Point Trails, checked out the view of the lake from Fishing Bridge, and drove around the lake to various viewpoints. We saw a female elk nursing a calf in woods by the side of the road during our drive as well as interesting ducks and other water fowl.

LAKE YELLOWSTONE HOTEL 235 Yellowstone Lake Rd. We booked a deluxe lake view room and it was the best room we had within Yellowstone. It had the nicest tiled bathroom we’ve seen in a national park and the lake view was beautiful. Cell service was very slow and there’s no WiFi, but the room was comfortable. If you want to have even a halfway decent dinner you have to pre-book the hotel restaurant. Guests are allowed to book online before those who aren’t staying at the property, so we took advantage to secure a table very far in advance. We enjoyed our meal in the restaurant, especially the trout. It was the best dinner we had while in the park. Our server seemed a bit inexperienced, but she was very sweet and friendly, so we could overlook any training issues. The breakfast buffet was good. They seemed understaffed, but that was the case at all the places we stayed in Yellowstone.

WED MAY 29 GRAND CANYON OF YELLOWSTONE Gorgeous 20 mile long and 800 - 1200 ft. deep canyon carved by the Yellowstone River featuring three waterfalls (Upper, Lower and Crystal Falls) and brightly colored canyon walls. There are many viewpoints, one of the most scenic is at Artist Point. You can drive around the north and south rims and there are various hiking trails as well. We hiked about 10 miles in this area and were pretty wiped by the time we got back to the hotel, but the scenery was worth it. Although there’s always the chance to see wildlife, we didn’t see much here, however we met a woman who told us about a Horned Owl with a chick in a tree near the visitor center in Mammoth Hot Springs and about resplendent Harlequin Ducks in another location, which we took a special drive to see. Other visitors eagerly shared information about wildlife sightings throughout our stay.

THU MAY 30 LAMAR VALLEY We booked a private tour with Yellowstone Guidelines in the Lamar Valley, one of the most renowned areas in the park for seeing animals. We were meeting our guide at the crack of dawn near the visitor center in Mammoth Hot Springs, and we’d arrived early, so we went looking for the Horned Owls and found them in a tree exactly where we had been advised to look. The chick was starting to shed its fuzzy feathers but was still gawky cute. We had a good tour, though we thought our guide might have some special insight about where to find wildlife and we had hoped to venture away from the crowds, maybe hike a few trails. However, he mainly drove around on the road and when we saw groups of people with cameras and big scopes watching something, we pulled over to watch as well. We could easily have done this ourselves and saved money. We did see a female grizzly with cubs, and wolves with three scampering babies, all at very great distances, though the wolves were somewhat closer and could be seen more easily with binoculars. One highlight was seeing an enormous herd of bison stampeding across a vast field. We looked out for predators who might have instigated the mad dash, but didn’t see any. The guide spotted mountain goats high on the hill. We had hoped to see Bighorn Sheep and didn’t find any. We ran into people who told us about seeing black bears close to the road, but we saw one at a distance. Mid-afternoon after the tour, we headed over to the dining room at Mammoth Hotel, since you don’t need reservations for lunch, and had a pretty good meal, then checked out the limestone terraces around Mammoth before heading back to the lodge.

THU MAY 29 - 30 CANYON LODGE 41 Clover Lane

Of the 3 lodges in Yellowstone this was the only one that we truly disliked. We drove over from Lake Yellowstone Hotel with a few stops on the way, so we arrived around 11 am. We didn’t expect our room to be ready and we checked our bags. Both the young woman at the front desk and the bellman were very friendly and helpful. We hiked over 10 miles that day and returned to the hotel tired, hungry and ready to freshen up in our room so we could grab an early dinner, except it wasn’t ready at check in time, which is already quite late at 4 pm. After waiting for over an hour I finally spoke with the manager, who was polite, but told us that there were only two rooms of the type we booked and neither was clean yet, even though they knew we had arrived hours before. He finally claimed that he would upgrade us so we could get a room sooner, but the room lacked some features that were supposed to be provided with our room type, and it was still very basic. We didn’t like the room at all, but didn’t want to wait any longer and appreciated the effort to satisfy us. The thing we liked the most at this property was the coffee bar. The dining options were awful, just a cafeteria with the equivalent of fast food, which is why we had lunch in Mammoth and skipped dinner the second day. We also skipped breakfast there and had it when we got to Old Faithful Inn. We had limited cell service and WiFi, which was not the case at the other lodges, but it didn’t make up for the rest of it.

FRI MAY 31 - SAT JUN 1 GEYSER BASINS  We arrived early, dropped our bags, and after breakfast went off to sightsee. There are several geyser basins with over 500 geysers throughout the park and there are trails, mostly boardwalks, to follow through them. We could walk to the  Upper, Lower and Biscuit Geyser Basins, as well as the aptly named Morning Glory Pool from the inn, and drove to others, such as West Thumb, Norris (home to Steamboat Geyser) and Midway where the spectacular Grand Prismatic Spring is located, the largest hot spring in the U.S. and one of the most brilliantly colorful.

Old Faithful is famous not only for its grandeur but, as its name indicates, its frequent and reliable schedule, so it’s easy to catch an eruption. We watched it from our room at the inn several times as well as from the hotel terrace and up closer on the boardwalk. We also hiked a relatively easy trail up to an overlook to watch the eruption from above, arguably our favorite perspective. Other geysers were less predictable, however the park service posts signs indicating approximately when an eruption is anticipated, so with a little patience we were able to see several geysers spew. We were fortunate to witness Grand Geyser. It’s the tallest predictable geyser, at 200 ft. it’s taller than Old Faithful (106 - 184 ft.), but it only erupts about every 6 - 7 hours. It’s an impressive sight.

Steamboat Geyser is the world’s tallest active geyser, shooting water over 300 ft. in the air for 3 to 40 minutes. It is highly unpredictable and it can be days, months or even up to 50 years between eruptions, though it became more active beginning in 2018. The blast is so intense that cars fairly far away in the parking lot can be damaged by hot water, dissolved minerals and debris when it erupts, so you wouldn’t want to be on the boardwalk at that time. It’s called Steamboat because after the initial water eruption a powerful plume of steam will vent for several hours. One day we learned that it had erupted around 3 am, so at first light that morning we drove over. The boardwalk was icy due to water from the geyser that had frozen in the wee hours, but it was worth slipping around to see this incredible sight.

OLD FAITHFUL INN 3200 Old Faithful Inn Rd Deluxe Geyser Basin View - The public spaces are far more impressive than the rooms. We paid extra for a room in the east wing that directly faced the Old Faithful geyser. Bison grazed just outside our window. The room was fairly small but had most of what we needed, though no WiFi and cell service was very spotty. We like to unplug, however being on a long road trip there were arrangements I needed to firm up in a couple of places, so it was inconvenient. The lodge is exceptionally busy, but better managed than the other lodges and we were able to check in at 4 pm. A free hotel tour is held several times a day and lasts about 45 minutes. The history of the hotel is very interesting and the architecture is majestic. Dining is fair. Most of the young people serving are friendly and helpful, though it’s clear that they are understaffed. Even with dinner reservations (which are mandatory) we waited on a long line to be seated, and we weren’t even there in the summer. The main complaint that we had was the noise from other guests during quiet hours. The room and restaurant were nicer at Lake Yellowstone, but overall we slightly preferred this one.

SUN JUN 2 - MON JUN 3 GRAND TETON NP WY (2h30) We were thrilled with Grand Teton National Park with its stunning scenery and very good wildlife viewing. On our way into the park we saw a black bear walking in the woods by the side of the road. While driving around Jenny Lake, a gigantic bull moose with huge antlers crossed the road in front of us. He gave us the stink eye but didn’t challenge us further and just ran off into the woods. The weather was lovely the day we arrived, rainy and colder the following morning, but it cleared up by the afternoon.

SIGNAL MOUNTAIN TRAIL Moderate hike that offers widespread views of the Tetons and Jackson Hole.

FLOAT TRIP - MON JUN 3 7:15 - 10:45 am We had rainy weather during our float trip on the Snake River, but we still enjoyed it. Mark, the guide, and Robert, the driver who hauled the boat to the jetty and picked us up afterward, were delightful and knowledgeable. We bundled up since it was cold on the water and were largely comfortable. We saw some waterfowl but no other animals, however the scenery is beautiful even in the rain.

SNAKE RIVER OVERLOOK We went in the early evening hours and found that this is a terrific place to spot birds and waterfowl, and we also saw a lone coyote.

JACKSON The town of Jackson is postcard pretty though clearly catering to the tourist trade and upscale visitors. We didn’t try any of the restaurants and just strolled around peeking in the shops.

SIGNAL MOUNTAIN LODGE 1 Inner Park Rd #50 Moran - This was our favorite national park hotel by far. Booking was easy (we planned well in advance), and the team at the hotel was very helpful when we wanted to book other activities, such as the river float trip. Everyone we interacted with on site from check in through check out was congenial and efficient. We were very pleased to be allowed an early check-in and the room exceeded our expectations. We had an upper lakefront king bed suite which was spacious, attractive and featured jaw-dropping views of the Tetons across the lake. It was a bit too chilly for us to sit out on our porch, but we appreciated the amenity. The view from the sitting room was just as amazing. Great shower, lots of space for toiletries. Nice kitchenette. It was clean, the bed was comfortable and it was very quiet so we slept well. The self-service laundry was highly appreciated. We were able to park right in front of our room, which was very convenient. There’s also a general store nearby with a good espresso bar and snacks. Overall it was a terrific experience and we’d gladly return.

THE TRAPPER GRILL The views from Signal Mountain’s restaurant are thrilling and the food was delicious. The young man seating guests was charming and our servers were friendly and attentive. We enjoyed dinners and breakfasts here.

TUE JUN 4 - WED JUN 5 SMILEY CREEK, ID (6 hr)

Our friends, Rebecca & Greg, live in a scenic rural area about an hour outside Ketchum. We met Rebecca in town and did a little food shopping before heading to their beautiful home. In addition to hanging out we took some easy local walks with their adorable dogs as well as a drive to admire the gorgeous scenery. A very special and memorable experience during our trip. The drive to Oregon through the Sawtooth Range of the Rocky Mountains was spectacular and I was glad to have downloaded a Google map of the area since we had no cellular coverage for quite a while.

CRATERS OF THE MOON NATIONAL MONUMENT On our way to Ketchum we stopped to walk around the lava fields and take in the otherworldly landscape.

THU JUN 6 BURNS, OR (6h - 1h TZ)

Burns was originally planned as a convenience stop to break up the long drive from Idaho to Crater Lake and it ended up being a most pleasant surprise. Malheur Wildlife Refuge offers excellent birdwatching opportunities and we wished we’d had more time to spend there. There’s not much to the town, but we loved the boutique hotel we stayed in as well as a local restaurant.

MALHEUR NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE We had no sooner exited our car in the parking lot when we spied a pair of nighthawks in a tree. We walked down a path to a lake and settled into a blind to watch different waterfowl including Buffleheads, Pintails, Redheads, Mallards, Goldeneyes, Shoveler Ducks and Coots. We only had time to visit this one small section of the refuge but it would bear further exploration.

THE HISTORIC CENTRAL HOTEL 171 N Broadway Ave # A This hotel was a labor of love and it shows in all of the wonderful design details. We stayed in the Whiskey Suite and were exceedingly pleased. Communication from booking through check out was flawless, as well as kind and welcoming. The owner, Jen, accommodated us with an early check-in, which we greatly appreciated. The contactless check in worked fine for us. The high style was equally matched by the great comfort and amenities. The suite was spotlessly clean and charmingly decorated. The bed and pillows were among the best we’ve encountered. Although the room faced the main street, there wasn’t traffic noise overnight and we didn’t hear other guests, so we slept well. We made good use of the small fridge in the room and were glad to find decaf capsules for the communal Keurig. There’s no restaurant so we bought fruit for breakfast at a nearby supermarket. The bathroom provided lots of room for toiletries and there’s a large shower with plenty of hot water. Nice waffle weave towels, quality bath products and a good hair dryer are supplied. The easy chairs in the sitting room are very comfortable and there’s a desk in the bedroom if you need one. We parked right in front of the hotel. There’s a laundry room and a spacious patio with firepits, tables and seating, though we didn’t use them. This hotel ranked among our absolute favorites.

THE PINE ROOM 543 W. Monroe St. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at The Pine Room, a family run restaurant. Our waiter, Tanner, couldn’t have been more pleasant, helpful or attentive. We were seated in a comfy booth and appreciated the relaxed local atmosphere. A full dinner includes shrimp cocktail, soup or salad, a generously sized main course, house made bread with butter, and your choice of various types of potatoes. We chose a honey mustard dressing for the salad, which was fresh and tasty, and the sweet potato, which was perfectly cooked. I can’t recall the last time I had a shrimp cocktail and really liked this one with small tender shrimp. For mains I had the Cowboy ribeye, cooked medium rare as requested, and Stu had a half rack of ribs with a nice bbq sauce. I drank a glass of a decent Merlot (generous pour). We were way too full for dessert. All of this came to $69 before the tip, a great value for the quality and quantity.

FRI JUN 7 - SAT JUN 8 CRATER LAKE, OR (4h10)

Crater Lake was high on our list to see and we weren’t disappointed. The scenery, sunrises and starry night skies were breathtaking. The only other lake we’ve seen that matched or exceeded this splendor was Lake Titicaca in Peru. Even at the beginning of June there were deep piles of snow at this altitude, despite sunny unseasonably warm weather during our stay. Most of the road around the lake was still closed to cars, though there was a plowed section open for hiking and biking, and we walked as far as we could. We saw deer and some birds, but no other animals besides chipmunks. We were too early in the season for any boat trips on the lake, but we were still thrilled. Park rangers gave informative free lectures on the lodge patio about the geology of the area. This is one of the places where it definitely pays to stay in the National Park lodge for the incredible lake views. A major trip highlight.

CRATER LAKE LODGE 570 Rim Village Dr. We were pleasantly surprised by the terrific experience we had at the lodge. We booked when they first began accepting reservations because it’s such a popular destination. First and foremost, the young people we engaged with from the front desk and the restaurant were delightful, very friendly and helpful. We had a problem closing the window in our room and the handyman came quickly and was efficient and congenial. We spent 2 nights in a second floor deluxe lakeside king room which provided a phenomenal  panoramic view of the lake. We loved watching how the changes in weather and time of day affected it. The room was not large, but it was clean, comfortable and made good use of the space. It was peaceful and we slept well, though arose early to marvel at the glorious sunrises over the lake. We were very pleased with the food in the restaurant, and there’s a nice outdoor terrace to sit on and enjoy the vista.

SUN JUN 9 - MON JUN 10 GOLD BEACH, OR Before heading to the Oregon coast, we dipped down into northern California to see the giant Redwoods. There are various trails that you can hike through the national and state parks to get close to these awe-inspiring trees. Although we took the coastal drive north to Gold Beach, stopping at scenic overlooks along the way, we had decided to stay at a property inland on the Rogue River. This allowed us to explore the peaceful river area yet it was only a short drive to the shore.

REDWOOD NATIONAL & STATE PARKS - (4h30) Excellent viewing of old growth forests with towering Redwood trees. We stopped at the visitor center for a map then drove to the Big Tree parking area along the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. It was a long drive from Crater Lake and we didn’t have much time, so we walked a short distance to see the “Big Tree” estimated to be over 1,500 years old, then hiked along three more trails into the woods before continuing the 10 mile drive on the parkway through the forest. Definitely worth the detour.

GOLD BEACH - KISSING ROCK After arriving at our lodge, we spent the rest of the afternoon walking around by the river and birdwatching. The following day we headed back to the coast and took a walk along the tranquil beach by Kissing Rock.

OTTER POINT HEADLAND Just beyond Kissing Rock we stopped to stroll around the Otter Point Headland, another scenic spot.

SISTERS’ ROCK STATE PARK Continuing north we discovered this gem, which was our favorite spot on this section of the coast. In some ways we preferred it to the more famous Haystack Rock. There are 3 rock stacks leading out to sea and easy trails for climbing on them to admire the beautiful views. It’s only about 1.6 miles/2.6 km from the parking area to the rocks and a greatly pleasurable walk on a sunny day.

TU TU TUN LODGE 96550 North Bank Rogue River Rd (2h from Redwoods) Breakfast 7 - 10 The lodge exceeded our expectations. It’s clear that service is a high priority and we encountered caring and helpful attention starting from the initial booking through check out. If you need anything, just ask. We had a beautiful river view room on the second floor, clean and comfortable with plenty of space for our toiletries and belongings, and many thoughtful amenities. Upon awakening the first morning I was thrilled to spot a hummingbird darting around the planters overflowing with colorful flowers that hang from the balcony roof. We enjoyed a relaxing soak in the 2 person tub on our balcony while admiring the river view. The fireplace is set up so that you can easily light a fire to further increase the rustic chic charm. The bed was big and comfortable and it was so peaceful that we slept soundly. Lovely bath products, towels and bathrobes. Meals were delicious! I still crave the Eggs Royale, a Benedict made with their excellent salmon smoked in house. Dinners were equally tasty. The best part is being seated with other guests at meals. We enjoyed the company of absolutely delightful people, which greatly enhanced our experience.

TUE JUN 11 - WED JUN 12 DUNDEE, OR (5h15)

I’ve been to Portland a couple of times and enjoyed it, though Stu hasn’t, but with the trip extending beyond the amount of time we’d initially envisioned, and because we decided not to do both, we skipped the city and spent a couple of days in the Willamette Valley, home to some of Oregon’s most well known vineyards. Although Stu doesn’t drink wine, he enjoys learning about viticulture, the landscapes are idyllic, and there are sometimes snacks with the tastings, so we can both enjoy a limited number of winery visits. I had read about the flourishing street art in Eugene, so we decided to stop there to have a look before continuing on to the valley. We’d happily return here to spend more time.

EUGENE STREET ART (3h45) We were glad to have planned this stop since there were many fanciful murals worth seeing. It would have been nice to have an hour more in Eugene, though we were satisfied overall.

ARGYLE 691 OR-99W Dundee 11 - 5 I had booked a tasting in the late afternoon on Tuesday, so after checking in at the inn, we headed over to the winery.  Argyle runs a formal and professional operation with a food truck in addition to the wine tastings. We sat on the patio and enjoyed the fine weather and relaxed atmosphere, and I liked the wines.

DOMAINE DROUHIN 6750 NE Bremen Orchards Rd. Dayton On Wednesday morning we visited this storied estate, the U.S. branch of the Burgundy producer. We had a brief introduction to their winemaking process, then sat outdoors with views of the hills and vineyards and I had a marvelous tasting. While the experience was also quite professional, it felt more intimate and personalized than at Argyle. I ordered a couple of bottles to be shipped home after the summer to avoid the heat.

BROOKS WINE - 21101 Se Cherry Blossom Lane Amity - I booked the “Everyday Experience” on Wednesday afternoon, a wine tasting that includes a light food pairing. It was another lovely setting though I found the food and wine to be less special than I had hoped.

BLACK WALNUT INN & VINEYARD 9600 NE Worden Hill Rd. VALLEY VIEW STUDIO The inn’s setting is magnificent with panoramic views of the vineyards, countryside and Mt. Hood in the distance. We were warmly greeted upon arrival and offered a pleasing glass of 4 Graces Pinot Gris along with a tour of the property. It has the vibe of an elegant country estate in Tuscany. We’ve stayed at other vineyard inns and this ranks among the best. We were in room 1 which felt very private and was completely peaceful. The views from the rooms, soaking tub and terrace were breathtaking! We joked that the bathroom was larger than my first 2 apartments and it was barely an exaggeration. There was a full dressing room with 3 huge closets and drawers plus a seated vanity just outside the bathroom, which featured dual sinks, large shower, separate toilet area and that deep tub. All airy, bright and impeccably clean. We could probably have brought our entire wardrobe from home and fit it. The bed was ultra comfortable with really luxurious linens. The towels were plush and plentiful and the waffle weave robes were very soft and cozy. Quality bath products, excellent lighted makeup mirror and top flight hair dryer are supplied.

Breakfasts are included and are terrific. The freshly squeezed orange juice was delicious, as was the coffee. We were crazy about the spring toast, served with creamy hummus, soft scrambled eggs and fresh crispy snap peas, a winning combination of flavors and textures. The mixed berries scones are also freshly baked and scrumptious. You can have a free wine tasting at 4 Graces and there are lots of wineries to visit nearby. We would have liked to try dinner on property but they weren’t open the nights we were there. We tried to think of anything we didn’t like or would have wanted and couldn’t come up with a thing. We would return in a heartbeat.

HUMBLE SPIRIT - renamed GROUNDED TABLE 411 NE 3rd St. McMinnville The atmosphere is casual and modern. Service is friendly and helpful. The food is the real highlight. We shared the shrimp rolls and albacore confit, both fresh and tasty, then the tagliatelle and whole trout. While we thought both were excellent, the trout was next level, just perfectly cooked and incredibly flavorful. I could eat that dish every day. I had a very nice glass of a local white wine.  We finished with the soft serve. Overall a highly satisfying experience.

TINA’S 760 Hwy 99W Dundee This restaurant has everything - charming atmosphere and decor, superb food, and attentive, congenial service. The Brussels sprouts were delicious and my rack of lamb was tender and perfectly cooked. Stu’s truffled mushrooms and seafood risotto served with salmon were also excellent. I enjoyed a glass of a local Pinot Noir. We shared a sinfully rich vanilla ice cream with a drizzle of chocolate to finish. The attention to detail and warmth of hospitality really stand out. Best of all, it’s just down the hill from Black Walnut. If we make it back to the Willamette Valley, this will be our first booking.

THU JUN 13 CANNON BEACH, OR (1h40)

On our drive back to the Oregon coast, we detoured to the outskirts of Portland to see one of Dambo’s trolls before heading up the coast to Cannon Beach, making stops for the views along the way. Once there, we just took long beach walks and bird-watched.

OLE BOLLE TROLL 8800 SW Oleson Rd. Portland (45 min.) Danish artist Thomas Dambo uses wooden pallets, old shelves and old branches to build gigantic troll sculptures. He uses recycled materials to raise awareness of nature conservation and environmental management. The whimsical sculptures range from 13 - 59 feet tall (4 - 8 meters), and he’s placed over 120 trolls all around the world, most in remote places, but some in plain sight. Getting out in nature and the joy of discovery are significant components of the experience, so he provides clues to help find those that are hidden. Every troll has a name and a background story. Ole Bolle, whose name comes from an old Danish troll song, is in a garden on the grounds of Nordia House, a Scandinavian heritage center. Ole is drawn to sweets and he’s lifted the roof of a house and is peering inside to find the cookie jar. We had previously seen 6 trolls when they temporarily visited The Philadelphia Zoo and have made a point of looking for them when we’re in their neighborhoods. Ole is one of our favorites.

HAYSTACK ROCK An iconic 235 ft. tall (72m) basalt sea stack formed by lava flows just off shore on Cannon Beach. In addition to its imposing profile, it’s also a haven for colonies of sea birds. We spotted a soaring Bald Eagle and a park ranger on the beach identified the Common Murres and Tufted Puffins wheeling through the air and nesting on the rock. Overnighting here afforded us the opportunity to see the rock in different light throughout the day, including at sunset and dawn.

HALLMARK RESORT & SPA 1400 S Hemlock St. A popular hotel right on the beach. We chose it because we wanted a view of the beach and Haystack Rock from our room. Our oceanfront studio included a small kitchen. Since the resort doesn’t serve breakfast, it enabled us to prepare breakfast ourselves and get an early start. The room was comfortable but the best feature was the balcony with a killer sea view. The front desk team was amiable and we greatly appreciated the warm chocolate chip cookies they put out in the lobby in the afternoon.

THE STEPHANIE INN DINING ROOM 2740 S Pacific An elegant restaurant in a chic hotel serving a 3-course prix fixe menu. Service was on point and the food was delicious. We had planned to dine at a different place but were unable to arrange it, so I booked this at the last minute and am happy that it worked out so well. I’m not sure how I overlooked this inn during my trip research, but if we were to ever return to Cannon Beach, we’d stay and dine here.

FRI JUN 14 SEATTLE, WA (4h)

We’ve been to Seattle a few times and thought about skipping it, however it’s one of our favorite cities, so we decided to at least spend one day. We left Oregon very early in the morning so that we’d have time for some activities. We hadn’t visited the Ballard section of town, so we based ourselves there, and were delighted with the youthful, happening vibe of the neighborhood. Also, a restaurant that we were keen to try was within walking distance of our hotel, so the location was convenient. We managed to hunt up two more Dambo trolls in the city, however there are 5 in the Seattle area. The other three are on Bainbridge and Vashon Islands and in Issaquah, so on a sunny day taking a ferry to the islands would have been ideal. Next time. As usual in Seattle we had a great time and only wished we’d scheduled more time here.

BRUUN IDUN & FRANKIE FEETSPLINTERS TROLLS Upon reaching Seattle we headed straight to Lincoln Park to find Bruun Idun. We had an invigorating walk through the park with views of Puget Sound and woods until we spied the troll, playing her flute for the orcas. Afterwards we headed to Ballard to check into our hotel and walked over to the National Nordic Museum to find Frankie Feetsplinters, one of the few urban trolls, menacing humans outside the front door of the museum.

NATIONAL NORDIC MUSEUM Tue - Sun 10 - 5 Since we’d come to see Frankie, we popped into the museum which presents exhibits pertaining to Nordic history, art and cultural heritage. The museum’s architecture and interior spaces are modern and appealing and we found enough of interest to warrant the time spent perusing the collection.

CHIHULY GARDEN & GLASS 305 Harrison St. Hours vary, check website.  Stu and I were fascinated by Chihuly’s extravagant glass creations when we saw them in an art gallery during our first visit to Seattle decades ago, and have continued admiring them ever since (along with most of the rest of the world). We hadn’t visited this gallery, which opened in 2012, so it was a must-see while we were here. Luckily they were open until 9:30 pm, so I bought tickets for the evening and we went after an early dinner. It’s located right next to the Space Needle, but we’d ascended that tower during another trip so we just focused all of our time on Chihuly. The space is perfectly designed for showcasing his exquisite creations and the gardens are astounding. We’ve seen his work in many places but this was almost sensory overload seeing so many together. Mind blown! Definitely a major highlight of the trip.

HOTEL BALLARD 5216 Ballard Ave. NW A chic boutique hotel in a cool neighborhood. I had requested an early check-in in advance and was thrilled to be accommodated. We were issued a parking pass for the garage upon arrival. We sprung for a Courtyard Suite on the top floor and it was well worth the price, stylish, clean, spacious and exceedingly comfortable. There’s a sitting room with a cozy couch and chairs along with a fireplace and TV. The bedroom featured a king bed, nightstands, another TV, a chest of drawers and closet. The bathroom had a huge soaking tub, large walk in shower, vanity with plenty of space and a separate toilet room. There were soft towels and robes and all of the amenities you’d expect, including quality bath products. It was incredibly quiet overnight and we slept very well. There’s no onsite restaurant, but plenty of eateries close by. Overall we had a terrific experience and we’d definitely return.

THE WALRUS & THE CARPENTER 4743 Ballard Ave NW 4 - 10 pm This casual restaurant is exceedingly popular and they don’t take reservations, so we arrived just before opening and were seated promptly at a table once they opened, though we had the choice of bar seating as well. It didn’t take long for the place to fill, however tables turned fairly quickly at this hour. Our server was outstanding, knowledgeable, friendly and helpful, especially in recommending how many dishes to order and advising serving sizes. The oysters are incredible! We also enjoyed the halibut crudo, steak tartare, asparagus and halibut collars.  The collars were a special usually offered on Friday, so we just lucked out going that day because that was our favorite dish. Insanely scrumptious! We’ll be craving these for a long time. We would return to Seattle just to eat them again (along with the oysters, of course). I drank a sparkling rose that was very good and complemented the various dishes well.  Definitely lives up to its reputation.

SALMON BAY Café We asked at our hotel’s front desk for a recommendation for an early breakfast since most of the nearby restaurants didn’t open until 10 am, and he pointed us to Salmon Bay Café, a short walk away. It has a fun, retro vibe with leather booths and an oldies soundtrack, service was friendly and efficient, and the food was delicious with generous serving sizes.

SAT JUN 15 SPOKANE, WA (4h15)

After 45 days on the road we were finally heading back east again. We would have liked to visit more places in Washington, especially Olympic National Park and the San Juan Islands, but they’ll have to wait for a future trip. We took our time driving out to Spokane. It was mainly a convenience stop, though it’s a nice town and Spokane Falls truly are beautiful.

DAVENPORT GRAND 333 W. Spokane Falls Blvd We were very happy to be allowed an early check-in and to be upgraded to a room with a lovely view of the park and Spokane River. The young man at the desk was very pleasant and welcoming. The room was spacious with a comfortable king bed, great pillows, colorful swivel chairs and plenty of space for toiletries and belongings. Occitane bath products and a high quality hair dryer were supplied. We were a bit frustrated by the slow flaky WiFi but it wasn’t a major problem since we weren’t there to work. In the morning we went down for breakfast at opening time and waited about 10 minutes for someone to show up. We chose the buffet since it would be quicker. It was adequate though overpriced. The coffee was undrinkable. Check out was fast and the valet delivered our car promptly and helped with our bags.

SPOKANE FALLS The major attraction that we could find were the falls, which are right in the middle of town in Riverfront Park and definitely worth seeing. We walked over from the hotel and spent a couple of hours strolling around the park and enjoying the scenery.

WILEY’S DOWNTOWN BISTRO 421 W. Main St. Ste. 104 The restaurant was just around the corner from the hotel but that wasn’t the main selling point. The room was attractive, service was very good and the food was well prepared and flavorful.

SUN JUN 16 WHITEFISH, MT (4h30 + 1h TZ)

We’d been longing to visit Montana for many years, so we were excited when we arrived in Whitefish. It was a convenient resting place on our way to Glacier National Park and undoubtedly offers many attractions for those interested in outdoor sports. We arrived mid-afternoon and just roamed around the cute town a bit and hung out in our hotel room. We were pleased with the atmosphere, the hotel and the restaurant, so we consider this to be a worthwhile stop.

FIREBRAND HOTEL 650 E. 3rd St. Stylish and modern boutique hotel with attractive public spaces and rooms. We booked a Skyline King which had a fireplace, a small balcony and beautiful views of the town and mountains. It was clean, comfortable and quiet. We grabbed a quick breakfast at the coffee bar so we can’t comment on their restaurant.

LAST CHAIR KITCHEN & BAR 1705 E. Lakeshore Dr. We hugely enjoyed our dinner here. It has the feel of a local hangout, casual and friendly with fun decor, such as a mythical taxadermied Jackalope. The food is excellent. We shared the mezze plate to start and while both of our mains were delicious, my steelhead trout was the standout, especially served with flavorful cauliflower risotto. I had a nice glass of Pinot Gris to accompany it. Service was attentive and charming. It’s a small popular place, so it pays to phone in advance for a table.

MON JUN 17 - TUE JUN 18 GLACIER NP (2h45)

Glacier National Park encompasses over a million acres and the landscape is stunning no matter which area you visit. The most scenic route through the park, Going-to-the-Sun Road, crosses the mountains and reaches an altitude of 6,646 ft/2,2026 m at Logan Pass. The road closes during the winter and usually opens in the spring depending on the weather and road conditions. Unfortunately for us, the high alpine section was still closed, and only opened a week after our visit, so we weren’t able to traverse the entire road. Several hiking trails were also closed, so while the park was less crowded than in the summer, it meant missing some views and activities.

Even this early in the season we had to make vehicle reservations to be allowed to drive on the west side of Going-to-the-Sun Road and the North Fork from 7 am - 3 pm. The reservations are free but limited and book up very quickly 120 days in advance. If you fail to get a reservation, there’s an opportunity to get one for next day entry once you’re there, or you can enter the park before 7 am or after 3 pm. I went online at the exact time the reservations opened for our dates and succeeded, though out of curiosity I checked again about a half hour later and there weren’t any more available. We were staying in the Many Glacier area and with a hotel or campsite reservation you can visit that section of the park without a vehicle reservation, however we entered the park from the west, so unless we wanted to detour all the way around to the eastern entrance, and skip the scenery on the way, we needed to drive on the western side of Going-to-the-Sun Road to get there.

The weather was mostly sunny on the day we arrived and we started out exploring the area around Lake McDonald before continuing on to Many Glacier. After dropping bags at the hotel, we went out exploring and hiked a few trails. There’s an easy but lovely trail starting at the hotel that goes around Swiftcurrent Lake, though a couple of trails branching off from it were closed. We were very excited to spot loons and beavers on the lake as well as other bird species in the surrounding woods.

The weather the following day turned cold and rainy, and it even snowed at times. It didn’t stop us from driving to various areas and hiking some trails, though we were disappointed not to see much wildlife. We ran into some people who had been lucky enough to spot grizzlies, but that’s as close as we got. We had planned to take a boat ride on the lake, but opted out. While waiting to enter the restaurant for dinner, we watched a group of big horn sheep grazing on the lawn near the hotel, though none were males with the big impressive curved horns.

On the morning that we were leaving, the weather was beautiful again, so we arose very early to take a last hike around the lake. A park ranger stopped us because a grizzly had killed a moose right on the path overnight and was still there guarding its prize. The bear was much farther down the path in a wooded area, so it wasn’t possible to see it even from a distance. We hopped in our car and drove to Wild Goose Island Viewpoint and a couple of other scenic overlooks before heading back to the hotel for breakfast and check out.

MANY GLACIER HOTEL BROWNING, MT 1147 Many Glacier Rd. This wasn’t the worst national park property we’ve stayed in, and it had some positive features, however it’s far from the best and there is ample room for improvement. The location is ideal and views from the hotel are staggeringly beautiful. It’s a long uphill climb to the parking lot but the bellmen were very pleasant and helpful and there were lots of parking spaces at this time of year. The hotel’s public spaces were rustic and charming and there’s a nice shop on the hotel’s lower level to buy drinks and snacks. We reserved a deluxe lakeside king room on the day that our dates were available to book, over a year in advance. To our disappointment our room was on the lower level, so although there was a view of the lake and mountains, there’s a busy trail that runs between the hotel and lake so there’s a fairly steady stream of passersby and even work vehicles driving by occasionally. We had a door opening to the lake path and a bench outside our room, but little privacy plus noise from people on the trail, so it was less enjoyable than we had hoped.

The room was barely adequate, though at least it was clean. The bathroom was tiny without a single hook or rack to hang towels. There was a pedestal sink with no space for toiletries and just a small shelf over it. I kept my things on top of the small dresser in the bedroom. The shower was very small but there was plenty of hot water. There was a small closet with a safe and enough outlets by the nightstands, so we appreciated that. The bed was very uncomfortable, the mattress seemed to slope inwards and the pillows were among the worst we’ve had. We could hear the guests in the room above ours walking and talking well past quiet hours. It’s colder on this level so we had to jack up the heat and while the heater was effective, it was noisy. We didn’t sleep as well as we would have liked. A least there was a terrific Cuisinart coffee machine with very good coffee, even decaf. We felt that the room was a very poor value for the price.

THE PTARMIGAN DINING ROOM (no reservations)

They were only offering a buffet at breakfast and it was mediocre at best. Dinner ranged from abominable (the bison short ribs) to delicious (pork ribeye), but they were quick to bring a replacement dish. Service was excellent and we really enjoyed meeting the friendly young people working there. Views from the restaurant are gobsmacking. We didn’t wait long for a table at this time of year. There’s a more casual restaurant that we didn’t try, but there were usually lines to get into that one.

WED JUN 19 GREAT FALLS, MT (3h)

Great Falls isn’t the prettiest town in Montana, but looks aren’t everything. We toured the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center on our way into town, and that along with our historic hotel made our stay worthwhile.

LEWIS & CLARK INTERPRETIVE CENTER 4201 Giant Springs Rd 9 - 5

This history museum, situated on the shore of the Missouri River, describes in detail the epic expedition of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark to discover the Northwest Passage by river. The history is engrossing and the exhibits are educational and captivating. This turned out to be a highlight of the trip.

HISTORIC HOTEL ARVON 118 1st Ave. S Breakfast 6 am

I try to find special places to stay, especially those with historical charm. Hotel Arvon was the perfect boutique hotel for us, oozing character yet offering all of the modern amenities we needed. Built in 1890, it’s the oldest existing commercial building in Great Falls. We appreciate modern style but there’s something to be said for hotels that reflect a sense of place. We arrived around check in time and were kindly greeted by a young woman at the front desk who promptly registered us and gave us useful information. There’s a convenient garage behind the hotel which you access using your room key.

We had suite 211 and it was terrific! Each suite is named for a historical person and there’s a brief bio about them outside the door to the room. I wish I had taken note of the person ours was named for. We had a large sitting room with a window looking out on the Main Street, a separate bedroom with another window and a spacious bathroom with walk-in shower and plenty of space for toiletries. There was a very good lighted makeup mirror and full length mirror. We also had a kitchenette which would be fine for light meal prep. Coffee was very good, including decaf. There were TVs in the sitting and bed rooms. The bed and pillows were comfortable and it was quiet overnight so we slept well. We found much of the original artwork in the hotel to be quite interesting and so much better than the generic mass produced pieces typical of most hotels. There’s an adequate workout room on the lower level. We especially appreciated the guest laundry, which we needed. Check out was quick and pleasant. It was an excellent value for the cost.

THE CELTIC COWBOY The hotel’s attached restaurant is a fun space and we were pleased with the breakfast. It’s all self serve and includes a variety of hot and cold items.

5TH & WINE 214 5th St. S. 11 - 3, 5 - 9 A wine bar bistro with attached wine shop and limited food menu. The people were nice and the food was good enough, though we wouldn’t particularly recommend it.

THU JUN 20 BILLINGS, MT (3h35)

We remember our time in Billings fondly. Although it’s the most populous city in Montana and largely modern, it still retains some Western charm without being kitschy. The amount of interesting street art and art galleries was unexpected and we greatly enjoyed their art museum.

YELLOWSTONE ART MUSEUM 401 N 27th St. A Wed - Sat 10 -5 Wonderful museum with a handsomely presented collection of contemporary works from artists of the Northern Plains and Northern Rocky Mountains. We were pleased to be in town when they were open since they have limited hours.

NORTHERN HOTEL 19 North Broadway Great place to stay. I had requested an early check in and was very pleased to find that our room was ready when we arrived. We chose to self park, which was easy, but in retrospect we should have used the free valet service since all of the employees were helpful, friendly and efficient. We only spent one night so we booked a standard king room and it was very comfortable. There was plenty of space for toiletries and belongings and a large safe. The bathrobes were soft and there were lots of towels. We were on the 6th floor so there was some traffic noise, but not excessive. It’s downtown so convenient for walking around town.

BERNIE’S DINER 6 am - 3 pm Very cool 50’s retro style diner in the Northern Hotel with excellent food and service.  One of our favorite breakfasts on the trip.

THE BURGER DIVE 114 N. 27th St. 10:30 - 8 The Northern has a fine dining restaurant but we couldn’t leave Montana without trying a burger. We couldn’t have been more satisfied. Funky dive decor, friendly and efficient service, and insanely delicious juicy burgers with a variety of creative toppings.

FRI JUN 21 MEDORA, ND (4h20)

Stu lived in North Dakota for about 3 years while in the Air Force, but this was my first visit to the state. Medora is a popular tourist town, gateway to the Teddy Roosevelt National Park and home to the Medora Musical, an outdoor country music revue. President Theodore Roosevelt established two ranches in the Badlands area, which inspired his commitment to nature conservation. He’s a local hero memorialized in The Teddy Roosevelt Show, where an actor channeling him talks about Roosevelt’s experiences in North Dakota. We skipped the musical and TR Show, but drove around the park and nosed around the cowboy museum.

THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK We drove around the park and hiked a couple of short trails. Admittedly we didn’t spend much time here, so you can take our opinion with a grain of salt, but we were underwhelmed. Perhaps the landscape just paled in comparison to other parts of the Badlands, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Crater Lake and Glacier, but we also only saw a couple of bison and no other animals, so neither the scenery nor wildlife impressed us.

NORTH DAKOTA COWBOY HALL OF FAME 250 Main St. Just down the block from the hotel, it was convenient to view the displays and learn more about Native American, ranching and rodeo culture. We wouldn’t travel to Medora just for this, but while you’re here it’s an interesting museum.

ROUGH RIDERS HOTEL 301 3rd Ave.

While the public spaces had some character, our room was more like a motel. Perhaps we should have booked a historical room. In any case the accommodations were clean and comfortable, everything worked, and it was just fine for a night. We easily found parking in the adjacent lot and carried our own bags. The highlights of this hotel are the totally delightful people who work there and the restaurant. Bella checked us in and was so warm and welcoming! We arrived early so our room wasn’t ready but we went off to tour the TR National Park and she called us when our room was ready, which was well before official check in time. I can count on 2 fingers the number of times a hotel has actually called to let us know that the room is ready, so we were impressed. Gafua, who checked us out was also very personable and helpful. Stuffed bears dressed up like Teddy Roosevelt, pince-nez and all, in each room are adorable and can be purchased at the front desk.

THEODORE’S DINING ROOM Breakfast from 7 am The Rough Riders Hotel restaurant. We had dinner and breakfast at Theodore’s, both delicious. The ribeye steaks are the thing here, perfectly cooked, tender and flavorful. Breakfast was also very good, though we would have liked some fresh fruit with it. Our server, Ana, was attentive, helpful and friendly. We enjoyed the ambiance of the room from a comfortable booth by the window. The restaurant is a major attraction of the hotel in our opinion.

SAT JUN 22 FARGO, ND (4h30 + 1h TZ)

Being dedicated Coen brothers fans, Fargo was a must-see on our itinerary, and it didn’t disappoint. The town has a ton of character with a mix of old time and modern architecture. And of course there’s the woodchipper. There was a small park adjoining our hotel and it was fun to just sit and watch the families eat ice cream and play while people dressed in huge pastel colored balloony dinosaur costumes danced around. Add an intelligently curated art museum and a terrific hotel and restaurant, and a good time was guaranteed.

FARGO MOORHEAD VISITORS CENTER - 2001 44th St. South

Woodchipper 9 - 4 Anyone familiar with Joel and Ethan Coen’s masterpiece film, Fargo, will know exactly how the woodchipper features in the story. When we learned that the Fargo visitors center displays the authentic one used in the movie, we made sure that was our first stop in town, even before the hotel. It’s hilarious and even signed by the Coen brothers. If you haven’t seen the film, what are you waiting for?

PLAINS ART MUSEUM 704 1st Ave. North 11 - 5 Although it’s a relatively small museum, the collection of contemporary art that we viewed was intelligently chosen and beautifully displayed. The monumental mural by native son James Rosenquist is fabulous. As a bonus, admission is free. This was a perfect way to spend an hour or two.

JASPER HOTEL 215 Broadway N The hotel looked brand new and was very clean, modern, elegant and comfortable. We arrived fairly early and were quickly checked in by a warm and welcoming young man. We parked out front to unload our luggage then self-parked at the attached garage. The room featured plush Frette robes, big soft towels, makeup and full length mirrors, a safe, a comfortable lounge chair and bed, fast WiFi, and TV with Netflix and You Tube. While there was a closet, there weren’t any drawers or shelves, which we would have found useful. Our room was on the top floor and had large windows with a glorious sunset view. The bathroom had a huge single sink vanity with lots of space for toiletries and a spacious shower. I can’t imagine a better hotel in Fargo and Jasper would be a great contender in any location.

ROSEWILD Excellent hotel restaurant. Stylish decor, comfortable seating indoors and out, caring service and tasty food in substantial portions. Breakfast started at 7 am and we wanted an earlier start so we skipped it and ate once we got to Minneapolis.

SUN JUN 23 MINNEAPOLIS, MN (3h30)

Stu and I had separately visited Minneapolis for business but this was our first leisure visit. When I was there colleagues took me to the gargantuan Mall of America, but that was the only attraction I’d seen, so we couldn’t wait to dive into the flourishing art scene. It’s a clean modern city and while we walked to many places, it’s spread out enough that we also used ride share services so we didn’t have to deal with parking our car. I had originally planned to spend 2 days here, however the timing didn’t work out. We arrived on Sunday and the art museums were closed on Monday, so we would have needed 3 days and would have had to sacrifice other sites on the way home. This is a city that we greatly wish to visit again.

THE MINNEAPOLIS SCULPTURE GARDEN 6 am - midnight. The garden is located across from the Walker Arts Center. We arrived early to admire more than 60 sculptures from major international artists including Oldenburg and van Brugge’s iconic Spoonbridge and Cherry.

WALKER ARTS CENTER 725 Vineland Pl 10 - 5 Cl Mon & Tue By the time we finished our self-guided tour of the sculpture garden the Walker had opened and we continued our exploration of the entrancing modern and contemporary art indoors.

MINNEAPOLIS INSTITUTE OF ART 2400 3rd Ave. So. 10 - 5, Cl Mon. The premier art museum in the city with a collection that spans centuries. We caught the highlights that we most wanted to see, though we could have easily spent a day here.

BIRCHBARK BOOKS 2115 W. 21st St. Minneapolis Daily 10 - 6 Louise Erdrich is one of our favorite authors so we couldn’t pass up the chance to visit the bookstore that she founded. She wasn’t in the shop when we were there, but I bought a signed copy of one of her books.

HOTEL IVY 201 S. 11th St. Comfortable and attractive hotel with all the amenities you need plus some additional luxuries such as robes and slippers. We had a very nice view from our room. Patricia at the front desk was exceedingly welcoming and helpful. At check out I mentioned a minor issue in the room and she awarded me extra points. Unnecessary though sincerely appreciated. The valets are friendly and efficient. The location is ideal, we were able to walk to the Walker Arts Center and Minneapolis Institute of Art.

BREVA The Ivy’s in-house restaurant is a well designed space with good breakfasts. Our server the first morning seemed a bit scattered, but the one on the second morning was outstanding.

OWAMNI BY THE SIOUX CHEF 420 S. 1st St. Sean Sherman is an Oglala Lakota chef who promotes indigenous foods and founded a food foundation and this restaurant, which serves dishes using only ingredients that were native to pre-colonial North America, planning the menu around those that are in season. The restaurant is highly acclaimed so you have to reserve well in advance. The room is modern and bright, our server was helpful and the food was original and delicious. The wine list offers old world grape varietals but focuses primarily on indigenous producers from California and Mexico and Maori wines from New Zealand. A very special dinner.

MON JUN 24 - TUES JUN 25 MADISON, WI (4h25)

It was my first time in Wisconsin and it will probably not be the last since we didn’t have time to explore the more pastoral areas of the state and we’d like to return to Madison, a university town buzzing with youthful energy. It’s the state capital, scenically situated on an isthmus between Lake Mendota and Lake Monona. The State Capitol building is one of the most magnificent that we’ve seen. Nearby is Taliesin, Frank Lloyd Wright’s eastern home and studio for nearly 50 years. Wright built several homes in the area and designed the Monona Terrace Community and Convention Center, which was constructed after his death. Although we visited Taliesin, we didn’t have a chance to tour any of the other buildings.

CHAZEN MUSEUM OF ART 800 University Ave. 10 - 7 On the campus of the University of Wisconsin, the marvelous collection includes paintings, drawings, sculptures and objects from ancient to modern times.

MADISON STATE CAPITOL 2 E. Main St. 8 - 6 Magnificent architecture and art and the 55 minute tour is highly absorbing.

TALIESIN 5607 County Rd C Spring Green On Tuesday we drove to Taliesin and took the 4 hour guided estate tour (booked in advance), which covers the home, drafting studio, barn and other highlights on the 800 acre estate. You walk for about 1.5 miles so we were lucky to have clear skies, though it was quite warm. To finish off the tour we were offered soft drinks and hors d’oeuvres on his personal terrace. We had toured Taliesin West in Scottsdale, AZ and our dream of seeing his eastern compound was finally realized. We learned even more about Wright, his family and his work practices, and the house and grounds are stunning. There are shorter tours and a self-guided option, but we highly recommend the estate tour.

MANSION HILL INN 424 N. Pinckney St. This small boutique hotel exceeded even our high expectations. The warmth, helpfulness and high level of service by every member of the team was extraordinary. The property is gorgeous! Charming, clean, comfortable and well equipped doesn’t begin to describe our room and we watched the most spectacular sunsets on the lake from it. We were in number 7 and totally delighted. It was very quiet and we slept soundly. The breakfasts, served in lovely rooms on the ground floor, were delicious, with fresh berries, excellent bread and pastries and freshly brewed coffee. The town of Madison and this inn were highlights of our journey.

SARDINE 617 Williamson St. Although this bistro on Lake Monona is popular and good looking, we were disappointed in the food and service and wouldn’t recommend it.

HERITAGE TAVERN 131 E. Mifflin St. We were very impressed by this restaurant. The atmosphere is lively and cozy. The noise level in the bar area was energetic, but we were seated in an adjacent room. Our server was efficient and helpful with a terrific personality. Yet the best was the food. We started with the deviled eggs, which are truly creative and tasty, followed by the Char Siu Berkshire Pork Shoulder, which was out of this world! There's a nicely curated wine list with selections to suit the cuisine and individual preferences. The desserts looked tempting but we were too stuffed to consider any. If we have the chance to return to Madison, this will be our first dinner reservation.

WED JUN 26 MILWAUKEE, WI (1h25)

We were most interested in visiting the Milwaukee Art Museum. That was definitely spectacular, and as a bonus we enjoyed the city overall. The Republican National Convention was scheduled to take place in Milwaukee starting July 15, and in anticipation of that most hotels had restricted bookings and raised room rates, even more than two weeks before the event. A boutique hotel we were interested in wasn’t taking any reservations for this date, undoubtedly saving rooms for more important people, but that ended up being good for us. While looking at the possibility of redeeming some points for a room at one Marriott hotel, I discovered that we could get a suite in a more upscale property for the same amount of points, so we ended up staying for free in a luxurious suite that was being quoted for an exorbitant price. I don’t understand the economic sense of this, but we were happy to take advantage of the deal.

MILWAUKEE ART MUSEUM 700 N. Art Museum Dr. 10  - 5 Cl Mon. The eye-popping architecture of the museum rivals the excellent art collection within. Its three buildings were designed by Santiago Calatrava, the architect of The Oculus at the World Trade Center in NYC, Eero Saarinen known for The Gateway Arch in St. Louis, and David Kahler. We had high expectations and they were blown away. After viewing the artwork we grabbed coffee in the  museum’s bright café at an outdoor table, then we took a long walk around the lake.

HOTEL METRO 411 E. Mason St.  Breakfast 6 am

The hotel is drop dead gorgeous, decorated in chic art deco style. We arrived in the morning many hours before check in time. The helpful and friendly valet took care of our car and put our luggage in storage. Ray and Greg at the front desk were both welcoming and charming. We planned to visit the art museum but it hadn’t opened yet, so we settled into comfortable chairs in the stylish lobby for a while. As we were preparing to leave Ray surprised us by handing over our room keys, then escorted us to the room. He had put a rush on housekeeping so we could get in early. This level of service is superlative.

We had an opulent suite on the sixth floor featuring a spacious sitting room with a fireplace, a comfortable king bed, large bathroom with double sinks, walk in shower and loads of space for toiletries. It was clean, looked new and provided all of the amenities we needed. We didn’t hear any noise overnight and slept soundly. After unpacking it was an easy walk to the museum and to a lovely path along the shore of Lake Michigan. We had a very good breakfast at the restaurant the next morning and liked our server. The young woman at check out was also very personable, so we it was a special stay from start to finish.

BIRCH 459 E. Pleasant St. The food was delicious, creative and artfully presented, though the wine pairings weren’t at the same level. We tried the tasting menu, which consisted of a bite-sized canapé, three savory courses, which included a few bites of their signature dish, chicken under a brick, then 4 tiny uninteresting petit fours. We expect small servings with a tasting menu but these courses were minuscule. We left sated though not completely satisfied. I believe that it would be better to order a la carte. Service was also a bit off for a restaurant with such high aspirations.

THU JUN 27 SOUTH BEND, IN (3h10 + 1h TZ)

South Bend’s main claim to fame is its proximity to the University of Notre Dame, well respected for academics and research, and for its football team, The Fighting Irish. Since this was a reasonable distance for our drive, we decided to visit the University and reserved a room in the hotel on its campus. The architecture of the University buildings and the well-tended grounds befit its elevated stature, and their art museum, which includes a sculpture garden, has much to offer. The town of South Bend is peaceful, and since we liked the hotel and restaurant we rate this a well chosen stop.

RACLIN MURPHY MUSEUM OF ART  10 - 7:30 The collection in the museum on the Notre Dame campus isn’t huge, however, there’s lots to see. We especially appreciated their collection of Pre-Columbian ceramics, a marvelous Eakins portrait, and the outdoor sculptures.

SOUTH BEND MUSEUM OF ART 120 South Dr. MLK Jr. Blvd 12 to 5 There wasn’t much to see here, however the exhibits change so we may have caught less interesting artwork.

MORRIS INN 1399 Notre Dame Ave. Morris Inn prides itself on its service and its well deserved. From the moment that we pulled up to the entrance, and were greeted by a very helpful gentlemen, to our final checkout we were treated with great care. We booked a traditional king room, which was spacious and clean with all expected amenities. The best part though were the plush bathrobes with the Notre Dame insignia. We headed out very early the next day, so we didn’t try their restaurant, however they have a charming café, and in the afternoon we picked up a couple of tasty sandwiches to eat before leaving the following morning.

CAFE NAVARRE 101 N. Michigan St. I don’t think we could have chosen a better restaurant in South Bend, and it was among our favorites anywhere. The atmosphere is sophisticated, seating is comfortable, the food is delicious and service was outstanding. Noise is moderate so you can carry on a conversation. Ikraam, our server, was the consummate professional, attentive and efficient, as well as warm and engaging. I greatly enjoyed an artichoke appetizer and grilled salmon and Stu loved the superb mushroom soup and bolognese. For dessert they allowed us to deconstruct an affogato. I drank the espresso, Stu ate the ice cream and we split the biscotti, which satisfied both of us.

FRI JUN 28 DETROIT, MI (3h20)

It was many years since I’d had business in Detroit and I never had time to explore the town. We loved this city! This was one of the places that we would have liked to spend another day or two. Since we had only one day, we arrived very early to allow time to see the highest priority places. I had booked our lodgings to include the previous night so that we could check in immediately upon arrival and get going quickly. We couldn’t walk everywhere due to the distances, but we didn’t want to worry about finding parking, so we used Uber. It was fine until we had to get to the Motown Museum. We had allowed more than enough time but the driver kept delaying arrival. We just barely made our appointment, which would have been impossible to reschedule, so whew! The Detroit Institute of Arts ranks among the best in the world. We can’t believe we’ve gone this long without visiting it. It was a top highlight of the trip. We’d like to return to visit the museum again and to find more of the vibrant street art as well.

DETROIT INSTITUTE OF ARTS 5200 Woodward Ave. Fri. 9 am - 9 pm We arrived at the museum just after it opened to be sure to have sufficient time to browse the galleries. There are so many treasures that it would take pages to list them, but we have to mention the astounding Diego Rivera frescoes painted in 1932-33. There are 27 enormous panels depicting Detroit industry covering the walls of a large marble-floored court. We were the only visitors when we entered the room and a docent came over and proceeded to relate the history of the work and explain all of the symbolism, pointing out key features. It was an experience we’ll never forget. In addition to Old Master, Impressionist and modern art masterpieces, there’s a wonderful contemporary collection including works by many of our favorite artists, such as Amy Sherald and Kehinde Wiley. A truly world class art museum.

MOTOWN MUSEUM 2648 Berry Gordy Jr. Blvd Since time was so limited we focused on the art museum and the Motown Museum. We grew up when Motown was at its pinnacle and the songs weave a tapestry through our early memories, so this visit was important to us. Last year we saw The Four Tops and The Temptations on stage, though none of the original singers, and it was still a blast. The museum is incredibly popular and you have to reserve timed tickets weeks in advance. We saw people show up at the box office and find that they couldn’t get tickets for the current day nor for any day in the coming week. The tour was fantastic! Our guide was amusing and knowledgeable and we got to see the recording studio where notable hits were recorded as well as an array of interesting memorabilia, such as a hat and crystal studded glove that Michael Jackson donated to the museum.

ROOST 1265 Washington Blvd King Studio The team at the front desk was very friendly and helpful and the valet who collected our car on arrival was attentive and personable. This would be an ideal spot for a longer stay, and offers outstanding value for the price. We left early in the morning so we appreciated being able to prepare breakfast in the kitchenette, and we were grateful for the washer and dryer so we could get some laundry done at a convenient time for us and without incurring high hotel laundry fees. The open space was clean, bright, attractive and functional. We've rarely seen a kitchen so well equipped, you could do some serious cooking if you wanted. There was plenty of storage space with closets and bins. The bed was comfortable with soft pillows. It was much quieter than you might expect given the urban location and we slept well.  When we left we requested the car in advance and still had to wait about 15 minutes but that was the only service lapse that we experienced.

SELDEN STANDARD 3921 2nd Ave. Since we only had one night in Detroit we’re very happy that our sole dinner was at Selden Standard. I booked seats at the Chef's Counter. Unlike other restaurants with this type of setup, it’s not a tasting menu and you don't interact much with the chefs, but it was still enjoyable to watch the action. I'm always chilly so I basked in the warmth from the wood-fired ovens. The bar stools were comfortable and we liked the casual vibe of the room. Our server was congenial, very helpful since we needed advice about how much to order, and efficient. He also recommended a very nice light Italian red by the glass that paired well with our choices. We started with the vegetable carpaccio, which was an excellent starter, fresh and flavorful. They brought sweet potatoes and roasted mushrooms shortly afterwards and we enjoyed them as well. Vegetarians could construct a tasty meal here. We then shared the grilled sockeye salmon and grilled pork. They were both delicious but the pork was out of this world! Courses are not huge, but sufficient. We were satisfied and ended up skipping dessert. We only wish we could have returned another night to try more of the menu.

SAT JUN 29 - MON JUL 1 BUFFALO, NY (5h30)

Buffalo is so much more than chicken wings, the Bills football team and proximity to Niagara Falls. (Yes, we couldn’t resist trying some wings and they deserve their reputation.) We loved everything about our stay and are glad we spent 3 days here. Oddly a local guy seemed amazed that we found enough to do and questioned why we wanted to spend so much time in the city. Good thing he isn’t in PR! We had a great time in both towns named Buffalo on this trip, though if you twisted my arm I’d grudgingly admit that we preferred this one. If we visited either one during the winter we might not be as enchanted. Buffalo sits on Lake Erie and the lake effect climate can be brutal, often resulting in heavy snowfall and high winds, so late spring/early summer, or fall, is a better bet.

We could have reduced the time of the drive from Detroit by cutting through Canada, but we didn’t want to carry our passports just for this, nor line up at border crossings, which might have eaten up some or all of the driving time we saved. Stu and I have both seen Niagara Falls from the US and Canadian sides, therefore we didn’t go to Niagara Falls State Park, however we visited the small town of Niagara Falls, mainly for the fabulous street art, and strolled along a path above the Niagara River, so we caught a distant view of them. Buffalo is rich in street art and we spent quite a bit of time exploring the various neighborhoods where it’s most prevalent. If you enjoy public art, a trip to Buffalo is highly rewarding. The city is also graced with eye-catching architecture and its position on the lake affords splendid views, especially from the top of City Hall.

BUFFALO AKG ART MUSEUM 1285 Elmwood Ave 10 - 5, Cl Tue & Wed After a midday check-in at the inn, we walked over to the art museum, located adjacent to Delaware Park. The park was designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, who also designed Manhattan’s Central Park. The museum has two main buildings, a graceful Neo-Classical style one completed in 1905 and an ultra-modern extension completed in 2023, and connected to the other by a sky bridge. The original building houses art created from the 1860’s - 1900’s, while the new building displays contemporary works. We were entranced by all of it.  We also enjoyed viewing outdoor sculptures and walking through the park after touring the museum.

FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT MARTIN HOUSE 125 Jewett Pkwy Weekdays 9 - 4, Weekends 9 - 5 Yet another stunning FLW home, built from 1903-05 in the Prairie School style. We had booked the Martin House Plus tour on Sunday morning, a 2 hour tour that encompasses both floors of the Martin House, the Barton House - built for Martin’s sister’s family, the Carriage House, the Conservatory, the Pergola and the Gardener’s Cottage. We arrived early and spent time admiring the house’s gardens before joining the guide. Photography wasn’t permitted inside the buildings, though we were able to shoot the exteriors and gardens. On this tour we learned more about the family who owned the properties than about Wright, which suited us since we’d heard so much about him on our previous tours. As usual it was time very well spent.

STREET ART After touring the Martin House on Sunday we drove to Niagara Falls to view the murals. We spent most of Monday discovering the inventive street art in Buffalo as well as visiting the City Hall.  

          NIAGARA FALLS - Underground Railroad Heritage Center; Main St. & Depot Ave.; Third St. 425 - 623 These were the areas where we found most of the street art. The town is fairly cute but the murals made it worth the drive.

          BUFFALO - Hertel Ave & Starin Ave.; 585 Niagara St.; 248 Allen St.; Downtown Main St. to 5 E. Huron St.; We may not have found all of the murals in town, but we        saw a great deal and were impressed with the quantity and quality.

CITY HALL OBSERVATION DECK 65 Niagara Sq 9 am - 4 pm Cl Sat & Sun An art deco masterpiece with superb artwork in the lobby and other spaces. You can take an elevator to the 25th floor and then walk up 3 flights to the observation deck for a breathtaking panoramic view of the city, Buffalo River and Lake Erie. 

INN BUFFALO 619 Lafayette Ave. This lovely inn is in a quiet residential neighborhood but still within walking distance to some attractions such as the marvelous AKG Art Museum. We prefer small hotels and inns with character so it was perfect for us. The entire house reflects its history and there's a pretty garden out back, as well as limited parking that you can reserve. We were very happy with the breakfasts, the quality of the coffee and especially the luscious homemade scones, served hot from the oven. You can take breakfast in different cozy rooms downstairs or carry it up to your room.

We stayed in the Art Nouveau West room on the top floor. The room is attractive, spacious and comfortable with a very nice bathroom. It's right next to the Art Nouveau East room and there's a door between them, which is convenient if you're traveling with another couple. I would recommend only booking these rooms if you need 2 rooms together since you can clearly hear the guests in the other room. We’re still happy we stayed here, though we would probably choose a different room next time. The inn is generally very quiet.

HUTCH’S 1375 Delaware Ave. The restaurant was walking distance from the inn, so quite convenient. It has an old school atmosphere befitting its 25 year history, but the food was fresh and tasty and service was gracious.

BACCHUS WINE BAR & RESTAURANT 56 W. Chippewa St. It was a challenge finding a restaurant open on a Sunday evening, and we were lucky to find such an excellent one. It’s located downtown in the landmark Calumet Building. Constructed in 1906 the 3 story steel frame structure features an elaborate glazed terra cotta facade. The interior is modern and elegant and they offer luscious food and an excellent selection of wine by the glass or bottle. Service was faultless. There’s valet parking or parking lots nearby. This was our favorite meal in Buffalo, no contest.

BAR-BILL TAVERN 8326 Main St. Clarence 11:30 am - 10 pm There is spirited controversy around where to find the best chicken wings in Buffalo with natives taking a strong stand to defend their favorite. We can’t say with any certainty where Bar-Bill ranks, but we can confirm after trying 3 different preparations and heat levels (we didn’t go anywhere near Extra-Hot or Suicidal), that the wings were really good. Buffalo is also known for a roast beef sandwich called Beef on Weck, weck (short for kummelweck) is a hamburger sized roll topped with salt and caraway seeds. The sandwich is served with jus for dipping and horseradish. We shared a half sandwich, and thought it was only okay. Perhaps there are better places in town to try that. It’s a casual lively family joint, though they do serve alcohol. Our server was very helpful and efficient.

TUE JUL 2 - THU JUL 4 FINGER LAKES, NY (2h30)

In this picturesque area of upstate New York south of Lake Ontario there are 11 major lakes, and a few smaller ones, formed by glaciers and dubbed The Finger Lakes, since they’re long and narrow and most run roughly north-south. The lakes are primarily named for the Native American tribes, largely Iroquois, who populated the region. Today tourists can enjoy an abundance of scenic attractions and outdoor activities, photogenic small towns, and a highly esteemed wine industry. Ithaca, the largest town in the region, sits on the southern tip of Lake Cayuga. It’s a bustling college town and commercial center, home to Ithaca College and Cornell University. In Corning, the Corning Glass Works were founded in 1951 as a learning center for glassmaking and to produce high quality glass objects.

We stayed at an inn just outside Trumansburg on the southwestern shore of Cayuga Lake, about a 20 minute drive from Ithaca, and walking distance to Taughannock Falls State Park. Taughannock Falls are higher than Niagara Falls, and though they’re a mere fraction of the width and water volume of Niagara, the gorge setting is spectacular. Because there’s no way across the lakes, except by boat, driving distances between towns can be much longer than you’d expect since you have to go around the lakes. So long as you’re in no hurry, the drives are an attraction in themselves due to the knockout scenery. We would have enjoyed a couple more days to take a boat ride on a lake, hike in Watkins Glen State Park on Lake Seneca, and maybe visit another winery or two. Luckily it’s not too far from home, so we can always return.

THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS 1 Museum Way Daily 9 - 5

Driving in from the west, it was easiest to stop in Corning on our way to Trumansburg rather than doubling back later. This museum was one of the reasons why we visited The Finger Lakes and it exceeded expectations. Learning about the glass making process, watching glassblowing demonstrations and viewing the exquisite glass creations in the workshops and museum pleased us immeasurably. They also have a very nice café and well stocked gift shop.

TAUGANNOCK FALLS STATE PARK It’s an easy hike to see the falls and there are a number of trails to view it from different perspectives, some more challenging than others. The gorge setting is dramatic, accentuating the height of the waterfall. A must-see attraction in the area.

DR KONSTANTIN FRANK WINERY (1h10) 9749 Middle Rd. Hammondsport Daily 10 - 5 After the Corning Museum and checking in at the inn, we visited this winery, set on Keuka Lake, for a tasting. This is the vintner responsible for elevating the quality of winemaking in the region and the wines are widely recognized for their excellence. There are different tastings that you can select based on interest. I opted for “Eugenia’s Garden”, an outdoor experience where you order wine by the glass, bottle or flights with light food if you like. The servers were knowledgeable and willing to share information about the wine, as well as make recommendations. While they do make reds, the region is most renowned for white wines, so while I had a taste of Blaufrankisch, a red grape from Austria, I mainly stuck to the Riesling and Gewurtztraminer and had my first sip of Rkatsiteli, a grape cultivated in the country of Georgia. I ordered flights in order to try more wines, but wisely didn’t finish the entire 2 oz. pour. If we had sufficient time, I might have preferred their more in-depth wine tasting experience to learn more about the estate.  

HERMANN J WEIMER WINERY (45 mins.) 3962 NY-14 Himrod The following morning we drove to Seneca Lake for a private tasting of a sparkling wine and 5 vintage wines from the Weimer library, learning their history and how they're made. The wines were wonderful and as at the Frank winery, I preferred the whites, and bought a couple of bottles to take home.

DOMAINE LESEURRE WINERY (55 mins.) 13920 State Rte 54 Hammondsport 10 - 5:45 While I enjoyed all of the tastings and wines, this was our overall favorite experience. Owned by a French couple, it has more of a Gallic, rather than Germanic, feel. What’s better than sampling wine in a rustic chic room with a breathtaking view of Keuka Lake on a sunny summer day? I signed up for their Signature Wine & Food Tasting, which includes sips of 5 of their celebrated wines expertly paired with 5 bite-sized treats, 4 savory and one sweet. Stu snacked on the yummy food and skipped the wine. They also offer a wine and macaron tasting if you have a sweet tooth, or wine tasting without food. In addition to bottles of wine, you can buy excellent artisanal chocolates, macarons and other delectables in their shop. I took home a bottle of their best Chardonnay.

INN AT TAUGHANNOCK FALLS 030 Gorge Rd Rte. 89 Trumansburg The inn began life as a Gilded Age private mansion in 1873. The original home, renamed The Victorian Inn, is now one of four buildings with 24 guest rooms and suites on the sprawling 12 acre property. What is currently Taughannock Falls State Park, including the waterfall, had been part of the estate and was sold to the state of New York to create the park. Despite its overall size, the inn still feels somewhat intimate due to the limited number of rooms spread out across the grounds.They have facilities to host events, such as weddings, but happily there weren’t any scheduled during our stay, so it was peaceful. While the original building oozes period charm, we opted for a modern room in the Lakeview building in order to enjoy a private balcony with a view of Cayuga Lake and a more quiet location. The room was spacious and comfortable. We had expected more engaging and personalized service, but were generally content. A fairly good breakfast is served in a bright room in the Victorian Inn with lovely views of the lake. The location is convenient for exploring the area, though we wouldn’t stay here again if we come back.

1833 KITCHEN & BAR 392 Main St. Aurora This is the restaurant attached to The Aurora Inn, built in 1833, one of 6 historic residences located on the northeast shore of Cayuga Lake that comprise The Inns of Aurora. We had given consideration to staying at one of these inns, but decided not to because the location wasn’t as convenient for the activities we wanted to do and would have entailed longer drives, though it might have been worth it. This was our favorite restaurant in The Finger Lakes. Our table was ideal, set on a patio overlooking the lake. Service was warm and attentive and the food and wine were outstanding. We can only imagine how good their breakfasts are. If we visit the area again, perhaps in autumn to see the fall foliage, we’ll stay at this inn.

HAZELNUT KITCHEN 53 E. Main St. Wed - Sat - A cozy casual space in the village of Trumansburg serving food sourced from local farms. The meal was good, though we had hoped for better.

FLX TABLE 22 Linden St. Geneva It can be difficult securing a reservation at this hot spot since it only seats 16 people at a communal table and has a reputation for fine dining. In our opinion the reputation is wholly undeserved. We were the first to arrive and were seated in a bar area to await the start of dinner. I had ordered a wine pairing with the 5 course menu, so I didn’t want a drink before dinner. The atmosphere was convivial chatting with the other guests. At the appointed time, they began leading couples/groups individually into the dining room. We were the last couple to be seated, except for a foursome who showed up long after the meal was in progress. We were therefore a bit isolated at our end of the table until the last guests arrived, making it more difficult to participate in discussions. When they finally showed up the new guests were young and lively and we had fun conversing with them. Service was a bit formal and pretentious for such a relaxed format. For reasons that we can’t explain our service seemed to lag throughout the meal, our plates came last and I had to ask for my wine pairing. We hadn’t requested any special dietary accommodations so it didn’t make sense to us. The first course was served family style - a Farmers’ Board with fresh vegetables, dips and truly wondrous focaccia. The rest of the courses featured ambitious preparations with multiple ingredients that didn’t always taste as good as they looked. We had a fairly long drive back to the inn and were ready to leave once we finished, but they made everyone wait at the table while they invited each couple/group to the other room to settle the bill. You had to pre-pay the meal when making the reservation, so it was only for drinks, yet it took a long time for them to do it. There was a second seating coming in so you might have expected them to be more efficient getting the first seating out. We were one of the last to be permitted to leave and beyond frustrated at that point. We liked the concept, and have enjoyed communal dining in other places, but not the execution. Best to save your money and dine elsewhere.

FRI JUL 5 HOME (3h30)

Home, sweet home! We left ridiculously early, as usual, and zipped home without much traffic.