Mexico - Merida
Feb 2022
We had great success using Airbnb to book accommodations during Covid since it was safer to travel without using hotels. We drove to local destinations, enjoyed outdoor activities, and then cooked in the home, so we minimized interactions with others. So when I was looking for a long term stay in Merida during the winter, I checked out Airbnb and found the perfect place, Casa Linda (which means beautiful house). A spotlessly clean 2-bedroom, 2.5 bathroom home with a fully equipped kitchen, dining room, living room, laundry room, filtered water tap, flat screen TV with Netflix, fast, reliable WiFi, a safe, a private enclosed inner courtyard with a plunge pool and lounging and dining furniture. It was full of lovely native decor and objects, so we really felt as if we were living in Mexico and not some generic hotel. It's in a very safe central neighborhood, walking distance to the main squares and attractions, with free street parking. The neighbors we met were very friendly. The price for a month was a bargain, and they included cleaning service once a week with change of towels and sheets and pool cleaning. The host was wonderful and very responsive, though we really didn't have problems with the property, only an occasional question. We would often tour around in the morning before it got too hot and return to the casa in the afternoon to chill in the pool. If you're interested in Merida and would like to consider it, here's a link to the property (the owner manages several other properties as well):
Casa Linda courtyard at night
While there's an airport in Merida, it was far less expensive for us to fly to Cancun, a major resort town on the Caribbean coast in the state of Quintana Roo. It took about 3 - 4 hours to reach Merida by car from there, but we felt it was worth it. While in the Yucatan we had a rental car and drove all over without any incidents. Police set up checkpoints in some locations but they just waved us through, we were never asked to pull over. We did obey all traffic laws including the speed limits (even if few other drivers did). The roads were in great condition and well-signed, and there was very little traffic once we got outside of the cities. If you want to stay by the sea, it's best to stick to Quintana Roo, but we wanted to explore Yucatan state, so Merida is an excellent base, and a fabulous city. People were unfailingly friendly, kind and welcoming. Our Spanish is rudimentary but we managed well enough and many people speak English. At that stage in the pandemic all of the locals wore masks, even outdoors, and your temperature was checked before entering any indoor establishments. We never once felt worried or concerned even walking around early mornings or at night.
We found good markets with fresh food and cooked at the house most days, but the cuisine in Mexico is so delicious that we had to try some restaurants, and mostly dined outdoors. In February into early March days were warm to hot and nights were balmy. We had only a couple of hours of rain during our stay.
Merida's main boulevard is the Paseo de Montejo, and we were located a few blocks from it, so in the early morning we often power-walked the length of it for exercise while it was still cool. It's lined with trees, lovely mansions, restaurants, businesses and museums, and on Sunday it's closed to traffic in the morning and families come out to ride bikes or run along it (referred to as Bici-ruta Merida). One morning we were amazed to spot an adorable Ferruginous Pygmy Owl in a tree on this main drag. There are several squares, mostly enclosing parks, where we spied beautiful Red-Lored Amazon Parrots in the trees along with more common birds. You can find someone playing music at all times throughout the city. Merida hosts fiestas in the squares nearly every night of the week that include music, dancing, historical displays, food stands, and even matches of the famous Mayan ballgame (Pok-ta-Pok) sometimes with a flaming ball. The fiestas are clearly enjoyed by locals as well as visitors. We enjoyed them enormously throughout our stay.
Ferruginous Pygmy Owl staring us down on the Paseo de Montejo
Red-Lored Amazon Parrot in Plaza Santa Lucia
We started out exploring the city and then began taking day trips as well as 3 overnight stays. The Yucatan is famous for its rich Mayan history and culture and Mayans still live throughout the Yucatan peninsula and Central America. (We learned to speak some Mayan when we visited Belize.) There are many important archaeological sites in the area and we toured some of the key ones. Cenotes, sinkholes filled with crystal clear water and often in caves, are another popular attraction and a refreshing way to cool off in the heat. Here are some highlights of our travels along with comments on the places we stayed and the restaurants we ate in.
MERIDA
Merida, the capital of Yucatan state, has a rich Mayan and colonial history. The Paseo de Montejo is named for the Spaniard Francisco de Montejo who established the city in 1542 on the site of an ancient Mayan city. Stones from 5 temples found around the main square were used in the building of the Merida Cathedral and other buildings in the square. His former home is now a museum. Many of the grand mansions from colonial times now house museums, restaurants, businesses and event spaces. The more humble houses, which usually consist of rooms surrounding a central courtyard and brightly colored facades, share a common attractive esthetic. The blocks around the place where we stayed were filled with these charming houses, some in mild disrepair, but most well maintained. It's a beautiful city with lots of green spaces.
"Fairytale" Mansion in Merida
PLAZA GRANDE - the main square, also known as Plaza de la Independencia. The Cathedral, the contemporary art museum (MACAY), Casa Montejo, Iglesia de la Tercera Orden (Church of the 3rd Order), the Government Palace and the Municipal Palace border the square along with mansions, shops and restaurants. Various events take place here including sound and light shows projected on the Cathedral and the Casa Montejo that illustrate the town's history. Always interesting and not just for tourists. There are also food vendors, dancing, singing, Pok-ta-Pok games and other forms of entertainment. All day long, but especially in the evenings, the square is vibrant with people enjoying themselves.
CATEDRAL DE SAN ILDEFONSO also called Merida Cathedral was built in the 16th C and is reputed to be the oldest cathedral in the continental Americas. The interior is rather spare for a Spanish style cathedral since ornate interior decorations were removed or destroyed during the Mexican Revolution, but it's still impressive in scale and design.
PALACIO DEL GOBIERNO - government offices with murals and paintings depicting historical motifs
PALACIO MUNICIPAL - town hall situated on the Plaza Grande. The exterior is beautiful with arched arcades and a tall clocktower. Inside are paintings and murals and a large courtyard. A wonderful traditional dance program called La Vaquería is held on the ground floor of the palace on Monday nights.
MUSEO CASA MONTEJO was built between 1542 - 49 as the home of the city's founder and occupied by his descendants for centuries. The sound and light show on Saturday evenings describes the interaction between Montejo and his cohorts and the native Mayan people as well as detailing the symbology of the various decorations on the facade of the building. Inside is a museum with antique furnishings and historical artifacts with galleries for temporary exhibitions. When we were there we were thrilled to catch a fabulous display of alebrijes created by our favorite Oaxacan master carvers Jacobo and Maria Ángeles. Alebrijes are whimsical hand carved and hand painted (with natural dyes) Zapotec wooden figures usually depicting animals and mythical creatures. This was a major highlight of the trip for us.
Ángeles alebrije (bandicoot with mask)
MUSEO de ARTE CONTEMPORANEO ATENEO de YUCATAN (MACAY) - Fernando García Ponce - located next to the Cathedral in a 16th C cultural establishment it contains a small but well curated collection of Mexican contemporary art. It's open for limited hours, but is free. It includes a terrific exhibit of outdoor sculptures in the courtyard adjacent to the museum.
Construction/Deconstruction sculpture + (didn't note the name of the humorous pilot sculpture - he's sitting on a replica of a folded paper plane)
MERIDA MUSEUMS
CASA MUSEO MONTES MOLINA - located on the Paseo de Montejo it's a fully restored 1902 family mansion with the original opulent fixtures and furnishings as well as lovely grounds and gardens. You have to take a guided tour and it's well worth the minimal cost to learn about its history and view the collection.
MUSEO DE ARTE POPULAR - Folk art museum. Stu and I are great admirers of folk art, but were a bit disappointed by this collection, especially compared to the private collection we viewed in Valladolid
PALACIO CANTON - MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY - sadly this museum was closed the entire time we were there, however there was a very interesting exhibit of large-scale photos of Christo and Jeanne-Claude's monumental works on the Paseo de Montejo in front of the museum.
GRAN MUSEO DEL MUNDO MAYA - this museum dedicated to the Mayan people is far from center city, so we drove there, though it's easy to catch an Uber or arrange other transportation, and it's worth the trouble. Compelling collection describing Mayan history and culture in a modern well-designed building.
ART GALLERIES - there are many art galleries around town, our favorite was NAHUALLI GALLERY, creative, high end art in a handsome setting. GALERIA CARACOL PURPURA is also an excellent shop selling fine crafts and jewelry near the Parque Santa Lucia. They have a small cafe as well in the interior courtyard.
PASEO DE MONTEJO
MONUMENTO a la PATRIA - Among the museums noted above, there are various monuments in the center island separating the north and south lanes of traffic. In the northern end of the boulevard in the middle of a major traffic roundabout is the Monument to the Fatherland, an enormous sculpture that depicts Mexican history from the Mayans to the 20th C.
NOCHE MEXICANA - On Saturday nights from 8 pm until about midnight there's a big fiesta in a small square at the southern end of the Paseo called Noche Mexicana which features mainly traditional song and dance acts. This show is hugely popular with Mexicans and is attended by locals as well as visitors and their families from all over the country. There were far less foreign tourists attending than natives. Vendors hawking crafts and food set up outside the seating area. It's a really fun night with something for everyone.
Monumento a la Patria
Noche Mexicana - one of our favorite folk dance couples
Mansion on the Paseo de Montejo
Riding to school on the Paseo
Muchos Sombreros!
PARQUE SANTA LUCIA
This is a beautiful plaza with lots of trees, and parrots. Many shady places to sit and take in the atmosphere. Several restaurants are located on the square, including two of our favorites, as well as a terrific chocolate shop. They have concerts and dancing on Sundays and Thursdays. One of the times that we attended the fiesta in this square we reserved an outdoor table at our favorite restaurant, Apoala, and watched the show with dinner. The musicians were excellent! There are fiestas in other squares as well but I highlighted our favorites.
Mexican folk dance Parque Santa Lucia - the dancers perform intricate steps balancing trays with drinks on their heads, and they spill nothing
MERIDA MARKETS
LUCAS DE GALVEZ MARKET Intersection Calle 56A 65 - 67, Daily 6 am - 5 pm This is the largest local market, located a fair distance from the center in a busy commercialized section of town. In this area you'll find many more locals than tourists. They have a good selection of fresh fruit and vegetables as well as other staples. It was a bit too far to carry many groceries and parking is extremely difficult, so we didn't use this market much, though you could Uber or taxi to and from it.
MERCADO DE SANTIAGO Calle 59 between Calle 70 - 72, Mon - Sat 8 - noon This market is on the Parque de Santiago not far from the center. There's a fair selection of produce and it has many food stalls where locals congregate for breakfast or lunch.
WALMART Located at the north end of the Paseo de Montejo right off the traffic circle with the Monumento a la Patria, we have to admit that we did most of our shopping here, not just for food but other items we needed. They had a great selection and there was onsite parking, so it was easy. The free-range chickens we bought here were better than anything we get at home.
KI XOCOLATLParque Sta Lucia - Superb chocolate shop
ESCARGOTThis was a pretty good bakery and cafe. We weren't impressed with any of the bread in town, but if you enjoy tortillas it doesn't matter much
POLA GELATO SHOP near Parque Santa Lucia Daily noon - 10 pm. Our favorite source of gelato
MERIDA RESTAURANTS
APOALA Parque Santa Lucia Calle 60 471-2 +52 999 923 1979 https://www.apoala.mx Mon-Sat 1 pm - 12 am, Sun 2 - 11 pm. A beautiful restaurant right on Santa Lucia square with an outdoor patio, scrumptious food, and congenial and attentive service. The fish was sublime. This is the only restaurant that we went to twice. They are always busy so it pays to call ahead to reserve a table especially on fiesta nights. We saw many walk-ins turned away. Our favorite.
PICHETA Calle 61 501 (60 y 62), Centro +52 9995 06 03 39 https://picheta.mx//?lang=en\ Mon - Thu 5 - 10 pm, Fri - Sun 2 - 10 pm Reserve a table on the rooftop terrace and thank us later. This is an incredibly romantic restaurant with views of the Plaza Grande and the Cathedral and the night we were there also a view of an enormous full moon. We watched performances in the square during dinner. The food is more contemporary Mexican than traditional and truly delicious, but a bit more pricey than other places since you pay for the location and atmosphere.
NECTAR Av. Andres Garcia Lavin 334, Cl Tu. MWThF 2-10 pm, Sat 1:30 - 11:30 pm https://www.nectarmerida.com.mx/en/. This is a more upscale restaurant in a part of town rather far from the center with many overflowing bars and restaurants. The clientele was mostly affluent locals stylishly dressed. Service was good though it lacked warmth. We sat on a patio that was a bit too noisy thanks to surrounding restaurants. It looked much cozier indoors. The Black Onions dish sounds odd but is exceptional. While the food was excellent, it didn't seem quite worth fighting the traffic to get there.
OLIVA ENOTECA Calle 47 y Esquina con 54 Centro +52 999 923 3081 https://www.olivamerida.com/oliva-enoteca Cl. Sun. 1 - 11 pm A terrific Italian restaurant on a very cool street close to our place. The main reason we didn't return was because we primarily wanted Mexican cuisine when we dined out, but it was a nice change. Attractive room, lively atmosphere, good service and great food.
CATRIN Calle 47 463B, 54 y 52 Centro +52 999 518 1725 https://catrin47.com Daily 1 - 9 pm Catrin's claim to fame is a fabulous mural over the bar in its backyard patio. In the evening they put on a light show featuring it. We thought the food was not as good as other places we tried, though service was good. During the month we were in the Yucatan we experienced maybe 2-3 hours of rain total and unfortunately a half hour of that rain fell on us while we were dining outside here. The waiter moved us indoors to a table by the door so we could still see the light show, but it put a damper on the evening.
Catrin Bar Mural
MUSEO DE GASTRONOMIA DE YUCATECA Calle 62 #466 x 55 y 57 Centro +52 999 518 1645 Sat - Sun 9 am - 10 pm, Mon - Fri 11 am - 10 pm. https://mugy.com.mxThis is a very popular place for tour groups because it has a spacious patio, pretty decor, large portions of tasty traditional style food and massive fanciful drinks. We reserved a table for lunch one day and enjoyed the meal and experience.
HUNIIK Calle 60 #415-B x 45 - 47 +52 999 912 6244. info@huniik.com.mx Huniik is a high concept restaurant set in an elegant space that serves a tasting menu featuring local and traditional ingredients in fresh new preparations. Service was exceptional and we felt very welcome and comfortable. The chefs served the courses with explanations and the wine pairing was terrific. I requested an emphasis on Mexican wines and they selected some very fine ones, along with one or two from other countries. If you're adventurous and up for more than tacos and cochinita pibil, this would be our choice.
KU’UK Av. Romulo Rozo 488 +52 999 944 3377 Cl. Mon. Tue - Sun 1:30 - 10:30 pm http://www.kuukrestaurant.com A fancy, high-priced restaurant serving tasting menus in a restored mansion at the north end of the Paseo de Montejo. The venue is lovely and they provide free parking. We found it to be a tad pretentious and the meal didn't live up to its reputation. It was good, it just didn't justify the cost in our opinion. We enjoyed Huniik much more for this style of dining.
ROSAS SUR 32 Calle 60 x 53 - 55 Parque Santa Lucia Daily 8:30 am - 11 pm http://rosasur32.com.mx/. This is an intimate restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner on the Parque Santa Lucia situated right next to our favorite chocolate shop. Service was personable. We didn't try breakfast, but dinner was delicious. If you can't get a table at Apoala, this would be our second choice at Santa Lucia. They have a sister restaurant in a pretty pink hotel on the Paseo de Montejo called Rosas y Xocolate that's also supposed to be very good. I called them to book a table and they disconnected me a couple of times (accidentally I assume), so I gave up on them.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
CHICHEN ITZA - The most famous of the ancient sites in the Yucatan, it is a huge complex built by the Mayans starting from around 550AD and used as an important ceremonial center. The most striking and recognizable feature is the main pyramid, known as El Castillo or The Temple of Kukulcan. The site includes many buildings created for various ceremonial and practical purposes, such as an observatory (Caracol), temples, a nunnery, and an ossuary, as well as a large ball court for Pok-ta-Pok decorated with detailed carvings. Since it was a couple of hours drive from Merida, we stayed overnight at a lovely hacienda nearby so that we could arrive when it first opened and enjoy the site with less crowds before the heat ramped up. Even in February it can be very hot in the afternoon, so it pays to visit archaeological sites in the morning. Since we had lots of time, we selected a day that was relatively cooler overall and it was still very warm. I had visited Chichen Itza before Stu and I married, but this was his first visit to the site. It was worth seeing again.
El Castillo - Temple of Kukulcan
Carving on the ball court
Temple of the Jaguar
HACIENDA CHICHEN RESORT & SPA
The hacienda was minutes from the entrance to Chichen Itza and a perfect place to stay. Pre-Covid they offered a special back entrance to the site so that guests could avoid the crowds at the main gate, but sadly that was not an option when we were there. The hacienda was converted into a charismatic boutique hotel with lush landscaped grounds, a swimming pool and an old church. During our walks around the property we spotted some handsome birds. We had hoped to sign up for a birdwatching walk, but they were booked at the only time that we could do it. We arrived in time for lunch and also had dinner and breakfast the following morning. They let us check in early so we could enjoy the grounds and pool. They were clearly short-staffed, so service could be slow, but they were gracious, the food was very good and the setting on an outdoor terrace was lovely. The room we had was spacious with nice furnishings and a comfortable bed. It was quiet and quite private with a secluded patio in a wooded area with chairs and a hammock . We would definitely recommend it when visiting Chichen Itza.
https://www.haciendachichen.com/
Yellow throated warbler at Hacienda Chichen
Yucatan Woodpecker
UXMAL - An important Mayan urban center from between the 8th - 10th centuries. It's not as big as Chichen Itza but still incredible (and not nearly as crowded), with a very different type of round-edged pyramids from the Late Classical Puuc architectural style. The first pyramid you encounter, and the tallest, is called The House of the Magician. It's decorated with friezes dedicated to the rain god, Chaac. Among the other key buildings are the the Quadrangle of the Nuns, the Governor's Palace, the House of the Tortoises and the Ball Court. There are beautiful carvings throughout the site and astonishing birds. We were thrilled to see a resplendent Turquoise-browed Mot-Mot among other lovely species. There's an entire section that wasn't open, though it wasn't clear if that's temporary or if they're still working on it. Uxmal is only about an hour drive from Merida so we arrived early and were the first onto the site. This was the site I most wanted to see and it did not disappoint.
Pyramid of the Magician
Turquoise-browed Mot-Mot
Black-tailed Tityra
EK BALAM (600 - 900 AD) - Capital of the ancient kingdom of Tlalol, its name can be translated as dark, or black, jaguar. This site is surrounded by forest and not all of the buildings have been excavated. There had once been city walls and small sections remain along with a handsome gatehouse. The main pyramid, The Acropolis, contains a tomb for the first king called The White House of Reading. There are thatched palapas on the exterior that protect intricate stucco carvings depicting winged warriors and other figures, which are the main attractions on the site. You can climb to the top of the pyramid for the views, but the steps are not in great shape, though you need to climb at least part way to the terraces to see the carvings. Ek Balam is not far from Chichen Itza, but even closer to Valladolid, so since we were spending 2 nights in Valladolid, we chose to visit the site early on the morning that we left that town before heading back to Merida. It's not as well-known as other sites but a true gem.
Winged Warriors
Winged Warrior detail - note the belt with the shrunken skull and the jewelry
Graceful sitting figure
CELESTUN BIOSPHERE RESERVE
About an hour west of Merida on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico is the sleepy seaside village of Celestun. It has a beach, however it's not like the beautiful beaches in Cozumel (I hesitate to say Cancun even though the beaches there are gorgeous because they've been so overdeveloped). The main reason to visit is to take a boat out in the Biosphere Reserve, so we chose to make it a day trip. At this time of year huge flocks of flamingoes nest here and you can see them and a variety of other birds. It's an easy drive and we arrived early. You can spend a bit more to take a boat out with only yourselves, or go with a group of other visitors. We were the only ones there and didn't want to wait, plus it wasn't very expensive, so we had a private tour. It was a peaceful ride in the lagoon and we had plenty of time to view so many gorgeous birds, flamingoes, pelicans, herons, spoonbills, ospreys and more. This was a true highlight of the trip, but be sure to go in the right season because the flamingoes migrate to a different reserve at other times of year. The only species we hadn't seen before was the Little Blue Heron (not the same as the Great Blue Heron which we see often), but this was still a terrific experience for us.
Flamingoes
Spoonbill
Tiger Heron
Little Blue Heron
Osprey
Pelican
COLONIAL TOWNS
IZAMAL
While originally a major Mayan metropolis, Izamal was colonized in the 16th C during the Spanish conquest of the Yucatan and is now one of Mexico's designated "pueblo mágico" (small charming towns with rich historical tradition). It is dubbed "the Yellow City" because most of the buildings are painted bright yellow. With a population of about 15,000, it's a small town and easily visited on a day trip from Merida. We arrived early in the morning, found a free parking spot right on the main square, and just wandered around. A fleet of brightly decorated horse-drawn carriages are available for tours of the town, though we didn't take a ride. The prettiest building is the Convent of St. Anthony of Padua. Izamal was an important pilgrimage site for worshippers of the Mayan sun god Kinich Kak Moo in pre-Hispanic times and is one of the few towns with a standing pyramid within the town limits, though there are other unexcavated pyramids in the surrounding area. Kinich is not in the best condition, but you can climb to the top for an expansive view of the town.
CONVENTO DE SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA - Established in 1561 atop a pyramid leveled by the Spaniards, it's still an active Catholic convent, so most of the interior is off-limits. The church wasn't open to visitors when we were there. The small museum inside isn't very interesting, but the grounds are attractive.
GOVERNMENT PALACE - there's a model of the town in a corridor outside the building to give you a lay of the land
KINICH KAKMO MAYA PYRAMID - you can climb to the top but there aren't any interesting carvings or other structures
MUSEUM OF THE COMMUNITY - this was closed when we were there, probably due to Covid
CENTRO CULTURAL Y ARTESANAL Located on the main square it contains a very fine collection of handmade crafts
KINICH IZAMAL - Calle 27 No. 299 x 28 x 30 +52 988 954 04 89 Daily 12 - 6. Kinich is a very popular restaurant with authentic Mexican and Yucatecan food, so it's wise to reserve a table, even at lunch. The food is very fresh and you can watch women making the tortillas by hand. It's situated in a lovely old colonial house with several rooms. We were seated on a large and beautifully decorated open-air patio. Service was excellent and everything we ate was delicious. Highly recommended. https://restaurantekinich.com/
Horse and carriage
Convent of St. Anthony of Padua
Kinich restaurant
Clay figure from Centro Cultural y Artesanal
CAMPECHE
While Campeche is on the Yucatan peninsula, and was once capital of the Yucatan, it's not actually in the Yucatan state. Currently it's the capital of Campeche state, a port city about 2-1/2 hours southwest of Merida on the Gulf of Mexico's Bay of Campeche. It was founded as the Mayan city of Kimpech and was established as a Spanish city in 1540. Marauding pirates razed the city in 1663, but it was rebuilt with a city wall that provided security that enabled it to flourish again. Walking on the wall is one of the pleasures of visiting this charming city whose historic center was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Due to the distance from Merida, we decided to spend 2 nights in town to allow more time to explore it. We were disappointed that the Architecture Museum (Baluarte de la Soledad) was temporarily closed, however, there is still plenty to do and see, including just walking around admiring the architecture and the sea views. There are some beautiful murals and monuments around town and they have the cutest police station and vehicles we've ever seen. Calle 59 is the bustling main tourist drag, closed to vehicular traffic part of the day and in the evening, and crammed with outdoor restaurants and cafes, though it's blissfully peaceful in the early morning. Our hotel was just off this street at the far end. We didn't try any of the restaurants, but found a terrific chocolate shop/cafe on it.
MUSEUM OF MAYAN ARCHAEOLOGY & FORT SAN MIGUEL - There is an impressive archaeological collection in the Fort San Miguel featuring objects from Mayan sites in Campeche state. This was the first attraction we visited and one of the most interesting. Completed in 1881 the fort was one of 6 constructed to protect the city, and is worth seeing even without the museum, but we loved the collection. It's far to walk from the center city but there are taxis if you don't have a car.
FORT OF SAN JOSE EL ALTO & MUSEUM OF BOATS & ARMS - Built on a hill in 1792, the fortress was well positioned for defense. It currently contains a museum dedicated to underwater archaeology as well as displaying model ships and weapons. Definitely worth visiting and too far to walk.
FORTIFIED WALLS The gate to the section of the wall that you can walk on was just across the road from our hotel, so we were first to enter. Of the original 8 bastions and 4 gates, 5 bastions and 2 gates still stand. There are good views of the city and it's a pleasant stroll. In the courtyard inside the gate they run a sound and light program and other types of entertainment.
OUR LADY OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION CATHEDRAL - Completed in 1705 on the main town square it features a beautiful double bell tower facade.
CULTURAL CENTER HOUSE #6 A colonial era house set up as a cultural museum to provide a glimpse of living conditions for the affluent of the time.
XMUCH HALTUN BOTANICAL GARDEN - a tiny pocket garden with a variety of trees and plants and some birds. Not worth going out of your way, but a pleasant spot to enjoy some peace and shade.
MALECON - 7 km (4.35 mi.) seaside promenade with lovely views and towering monuments. We walked the length of it round trip and stopped for lunch at a very nice open air seafood restaurant at the far end from the center (Los Delfines). A highlight of our visit.
HACIENDA PUERTA CAMPECHE Calle 59, No. 71
A Marriott hotel in restored 16th C haciendas that just oozes local charm and character. There's a beautifully landscaped pool and gardens and rooms arranged around the open courtyard. Our room was spacious and comfortable. The team is very congenial and the restaurant quite good, though service could have been improved. It's ideally located for touring the center city.
CAMPECHE RESTAURANTS
LA PIGUA Malecón Miguel Alemán No. 179 - This highly regarded seafood restaurant is a bit outside the center but still walking distance. The dining room is attractive and the team is efficient if a bit reserved. It was busy on a Wednesday evening, mostly with locals. The fish was very fresh and we enjoyed our meal but felt it might be a bit overrated.
LA MARIA COCINA PENINSULAR Calle 8 173 btw 53 - 55. Casual restaurant with inside and outside dining, luscious food and a very friendly team. This was our favorite restaurant in Campeche.
LOS DELFINES - Seaside dining off the Malecon on a thatched roof patio with beautiful sea views and a relaxed atmosphere. The food was delicious and service was terrific. We went for lunch and it was quiet, but imagine that the place is hopping in the evening. There's a whole row of these beach shack restaurants so you have to look for this one among them.
VALLADOLID
Another designated "pueblo mágico" with Mayan roots and colonial history established in the 16th C, Valladolid is the second largest city in Yucatan state after Merida and the center city is every bit as adorable as you might expect. There's even a cenote in the heart of the city, though we didn't try it. We wanted sufficient time to explore, so I booked a room at a wonderful boutique hotel for 2 nights. The city is located east and slightly south of Merida, past Chichen Itza. I had originally planned to stay there after visiting Chichen Itza, but was unable to book a room at the hotel since it was relatively short notice, so we based our visit on availability of the accommodations. If you think ahead it makes sense to combine these destinations along with Ek Balam. I'm glad that we had time to see Izamal, Campeche and Valladolid, but if you have time for just one, I'd pick Valladolid.
CASA DE LOS VENADOS - Calle 40 204 x41 This stunning house, which the owner and his wife still live in, contains a mind-blowing collection of Mexican folk art accumulated over many years. This private collection was the primary reason why Valladolid was a must-see for us and it didn't disappoint in any way. You have to take a guided tour and our guide was delightful and very informative and learning about the folk art was invaluable. We also got to meet John, the owner, who is happy to discuss the art with you. Entry is free but contributions are encouraged. Many people show up and wait for a tour, however we had emailed the owner in advance to request a tour since we wanted to be sure not to miss out. javenator1@gmail.com.
PARQUE FRANCISCO CANTON - the main square of Valladolid was built on the site of a former Mayan pyramid whose stones were used for construction of colonial buildings. It's a large and very beautiful park bordered by the Cathedral of San Gervasio, the Municipal Palace, the House of Culture as well as hotels, restaurants, shops and other businesses. A fountain at the center of the park celebrates the Mestiza, a woman of Mayan and Spanish heritage, as a symbolic melding of the cultures. As with all public squares in Mexico it's a community hub where local families and visitors mingle to enjoy the green spaces, food and entertainment.
AYUNTAMIENTO de VALLADOLID - the Municipal Palace (city hall) boasts an impressive exterior, but inside on the 2nd floor you can find brilliant murals depicting the history and culture of the city.
CONVENT OF SAN BERNARDINO DE SIENA - (1552) - A former Franciscan convent and now a museum, the architecture is splendid with a series of rounded arches on the exterior. It contains a magnificent carved, painted and gilded wooden altarpiece and other interesting features such as an underground cenote, frescoes and antique objects. Every city seems to have colorfully painted signs composed of large letters spelling the city's name. The VALLADOLID sign is on the grounds of the convent and the letters are especially artfully decorated. There's also a sound and light show in the evenings.
CATHEDRAL OF SAN GERVASIO - Also known as Iglesia San Servacio, it was originally built in 1545, subsequently demolished after a scandalous incident, and restored in 1706. The facade features two square bell towers flanking a smaller clock tower and ornate decorative carvings around the main entrance, though the interior is somewhat austere.
MUSEUM OF SAN ROQUE - Small museum with some interesting painting and artifacts
CALZADA DE LOS FRAILES - This cobblestoned street with colorful buildings is a main tourist attraction. There are art galleries, cafes, restaurants and shops to nose around in. There are other fun streets to explore as well and we found some interesting street art around town.
Convent of San Bernardino de Siena with the VALLADOLID sign
Municipal Palace mural - Pre-Hispanic period
Casa de los Venados - Selection of folk art (many more photos on our site)
CASA TIA MICHA Calle 39 #197 x 38-40 +52 985 856 0639
www.casatiamicha.com Totally charming boutique hotel with a beautiful garden, comfortable rooms, delicious breakfasts and exceedingly friendly and helpful staff for a bargain rate. It's centrally located and they arrange for free parking in a Burger King parking lot adjacent to the hotel. It was worth waiting to get to stay here. We had the Sisal Suite, which had a luxurious soaking tub.
Casa Tia Micha garden and breakfast area
IX CAT IK Calle 39 entre 20 y 22 This is a very popular tourist restaurant serving authentic Mayan cuisine with fresh organic ingredients, some of which are grown on the property. Displays are set up which show and describe some of the ingredients used in the cooking, and you can tour the garden. The setting is attractive - we were on an open air patio. The food is very good and the atmosphere is lively and fun, especially because they perform traditional Mayan ceremonial dances in costume.
Performers at Ix Cat Ik
YAKUNAJ COCINA MEXICANA Calle 41 224a 46 - 48 - We had a nice lunch at this laid-back restaurant. It was a bit too hot on the patio so we dined indoors and were comfortable. If you're on the Calzada de los Frailes this is conveniently nearby. https://yakunaj-cocina-mexicana.negocio.site/
HACIENDA VIVA de SATUTA de PEON
One of the most popular pastimes in the Yucatan is visiting, or staying at, a historic hacienda and enjoying a meal there. Some haciendas also have cenotes where you can swim. We chose Hacienda Viva de Satuta de Peon because it has an interesting history as a henequen plantation, so you can take a tour to see how this specific type of agave plant is processed into a fiber that is used to make ropes and other products, as well as visiting the lush grounds and the main house to see the living quarters with furnishings and objects from the 19th century. It also has a beautiful underground cenote, Dzul-ha, and the tour includes a ride in a mule-drawn cart to the cenote plus lunch. Reservations for the tour are required in advance. This was a fun and informative experience and we really enjoyed the tour, swimming in the cenote and the simple but tasty lunch. https://www.haciendaviva.com/en