Ireland - April-May 2022

IRELAND 

MAY 2022

Stu and I spent 5 weeks touring Ireland (Apr 28 - Jun 1) after having postponed the trip twice due to Covid.  They say that the third time is the charm, and in this case the old saying proved to be true.  Among the advantages of having waited were expanding the trip from the original 3-1/2 weeks to 5 since we have more time for travel in retirement, and a more favorable USD/Euro exchange rate. Ireland was worth waiting for, all we hoped for and more.  While there were some rainy periods, on the whole the weather was pleasant with plentiful sunshine.  We actually used our sunglasses more than our umbrellas, yet we still got to experience Ireland’s famous emerald green landscape and the abundant wildflowers of spring. Days were long so we never had to drive in the dark. It was still a bit chilly to dine outdoors much, but it was fairly mild and ideal for walking and hiking around. Breakfasts were included everywhere we stayed and they were so delicious and substantial in most cases that we usually skipped lunch. In general the food was superb, using fresh local ingredients.

We started out with 4 days in Dublin, then picked up a rental car and drove from southeast to northwest following the coast most of the time, into Northern Ireland, and ending up in County Meath not far from the Dublin airport.

I've noted our itinerary with highlights from our journey along with some of our favorite photos. The hours I posted for attractions were for May and might be different at other times of the year, so best to check in advance.

THURSDAY APRIL 28 – SUNDAY MAY 1 DUBLIN

The Republic of Ireland’s historic capital and largest city, Dublin straddles the River Liffey which flows east into Dublin Bay on the Irish Sea. The center city is fairly compact and easy to navigate even for newbies like us and we soon felt comfortable walking around. We greatly admired the elegant Georgian architecture and lovely green spaces throughout town. We would have happily spent more time here.

***MERRION HOTEL 21 Upper Merrion St. +353-01 603 0600 https://www.merrionhotel.com/. Luxurious but intimate feeling hotel in a convenient location, walking distance to most attractions. It features a beautiful garden and a wonderful art collection. We took their self-guided audio tour of the artwork which was well worth the time. Our room was lovely and had every amenity you could possibly want plus little extras, such as fresh flowers. Everyone was friendly and helpful and we especially appreciated the concierges and Fiona, the hostess at their excellent breakfast restaurant, who made us feel so welcome and pampered. While having breakfast you can admire a statue of James Joyce in the garden. Very highly recommended.

THURSDAY APRIL 28

**NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND - Merrion Sq West at Clare St. Mon - Sat 9:15 - 17:30, A fine collection of European art. We particularly enjoyed the national portrait gallery

***LITTLE MUSEUM OF DUBLIN 15 St. Stephen’s Green, Daily 9:30 am – 4:45 pm; We took a guided tour of this little gem of a Dublin history museum. The guide was informative and humorous and even sang for us. A sleeper hit in Dublin.

MOLLY MALONE STATUE – Suffolk St. The statue of a young woman pushing a cart is a tribute to the traditional song “Cockles & Mussels”.

TEMPLE BAR, HA’PENNY PEDESTRIAN BRIDGE, GRAFTON STREET

The Temple Bar riverside neighborhood features an appealing bridge built in 1816, a historic pub and a bustling commercial street.We didn’t visit the bar but were among throngs of people who crossed the bridge.

OLD PARLIAMENT HOUSE/BANK OF IRELAND – College Green. The building’s history and architecture are of greatest interest, currently it’s a bank, so not much to see inside

***MR. FOX 38 Parnell Sq West - We had a fabulous dinner at this quirky restaurant that serves a creative 5 course set menu for a very reasonable price. Terrific atmosphere and service and we enjoyed every morsel.

NOTE: The *** don’t indicate the industry star rating of the hotel, restaurant or attraction, they’re our own assessment of how much we enjoyed the place, from 1 - 3*, with 3 being our top choices. Patrick Guilbaud got an extra * because it was so over-the-top outstanding.

FRIDAY APRIL 29

***TRINITY COLLEGE - BOOK OF KELLS (800 AD), LONG ROOM LIBRARY – The Book of Kells was high on our list of must-sees so I booked a private guided tour so that we’d get the most out of it. Our guide was well informed and interesting and we learned a lot about the university as well as this exquisite national treasure.

***National Museum of Ireland - Archaeology- Our Trinity guide added a visit to the archaeology museum to show us some of her favorite exhibits, including the remains of Cashel Man, who lived in the early Bronze Age around 2000 BC, and was found astonishingly well preserved in a peat bog. There is much to see here, including fascinating Viking relics and gold objects. We had free time on Sunday afternoon and returned here to view more of the collection at our leisure.

**ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL (1220 - 1259)— JONATHAN SWIFT GRAVESITE – The national cathedral of the Church of Ireland has a rich history and magnificent architectural details. The brilliant satirist, Jonathan Swift, who was Dean of the Cathedral for a time, and his paramour Esther Johnson, are buried beneath the floor in the cathedral.

***EPIC MUSEUM Custom House Quay, North Dock Daily 10 - 6:45 Excellent modern multi-media exhibits describing Ireland’s history of emigration and the accomplishments of the Irish diaspora. The exhibits are engrossing and very well presented. If you’re of Irish descent they also have kiosks where you can trace your ancestry.

***FAMINE MEMORIAL - Customs House Quay - along the river near the EPIC Museum these sculptures are heart-wrenching depictions of the Irish who suffered, died, and walked long distances to board ships to emigrate during the Great Famine of the 1840’s.

*CHAPTER ONE – 18/19 Parnell Sq. +353 873 2266 A well-regarded restaurant in a handsome setting in the basement of the now defunct Writer’s Museum which offers a 4-course menu or a tasting menu. We went for the tasting menu and thought the food was a bit overrated. Some courses were terrific and others fell flat for us. We thought Mr. Fox was a better value and meal.

SATURDAY APRIL 30

*DUBLIN CASTLE 1204 – Dame St. Daily 9:45 – 17:45 - Guided tours. Seat of the British monarch’s Irish representative (Viceroy) from 1204 - 1922.Since Irish Independence, the palace has been used for important ceremonial events, such as presidential inaugurations and state dinners. Initially a medieval fortress was built over an ancient Viking site. While a medieval tower remains (under renovation and unavailable to visit when we were there), most of the building was reconstructed as a Georgian palace around the end of the 17th into the 18th C. after a fire. The rooms exhibit a collection of fine and decorative art, antique objects and portraits.

*GENERAL POST OFFICE WITNESS HISTORY EXHIBITION – O’Connell St. Mon-Sat 10 – 5:30, Sun. 12 – 5:30 The GPO, which is an attractive building itself, offers self-guided tours of a history exhibition detailing the events of the 1916 Easter uprising since the GPO served as the headquarters of the rebels during the insurrection.

DUBLIN WRITERS MUSEUM 18 Parnell Sq. - Being great admirers of Irish literature, we were excited to visit the Writers’ Museum, only to find that it was closed permanently. The sign on the door posts hours so we only found out by looking it up on the internet.

****RESTAURANT PATRICK GUILBAUD – Located in the Merrion Hotel, this is the most acclaimed restaurant in Ireland. The dining room is elegant, romantic and comfortable. We were seated in a plush corner booth with a view of the whole room. Service by a mostly French team was impeccable and charmingly congenial and we even got to meet the chef himself. We went for the 8 course surprise degustation menu, which included lots of little extras (including divine gougères), and I had the wine pairing. The meal was sublime, the best we had in Ireland, and comparable with other top restaurants around the world. The wines were excellent and perfectly complemented the food. It was a splurge, but worth it. At the end, after dessert and petits fours, they came around with chocolate truffles. We were too stuffed to eat them and asked if we could take a couple to go. They ended up giving us a pretty little box with several of them in it that we enjoyed the next day.

SUNDAY MAY 1 

We had tentatively planned to venture outside the center city to spend time at Malahide Castle & Gardens, and also Howth Harbour if time permitted, however, after 3 warm, sunny days Sunday was rainy and chilly, so we pivoted to indoor activities in town instead. We enjoyed these attractions, so it was fine in the end, and the rain cleared up by late afternoon. 

***KILMAINHAM GAOL MUSEUM 9 - 6; 90 min. timed guided tours.

While we’ve visited historic prisons in other places, the fascinating history of Kilmainham, especially learning about the political prisoners, made it well worth touring. Our guide was terrific and brought the history to life. Advance reservations necessary.

*GUINNESS STOREHOUSE St. James Gate, Market St. S – Daily 9:30 –5; Neither Stu nor I drink beer so this wasn’t top of our list, however it was a fun activity on a rainy day and interesting to learn how Guinness is brewed. Our tickets included sampling the beers in an airy space with great city views (not just tastes, but full glasses) so we tried a few sips and decided we still didn’t like beer.

*CHRISTCHURCH CATHEDRAL – While the cathedral dates back to about 1030 AD, the building has undergone many restorations and renovations over the years. It’s a lovely space with interesting details.

SOLE 18-19 So. William St. +353 646 3352. Many restaurants are closed on Sunday evening so we had limited choices. This was our least favorite restaurant in Dublin. The decor and vibe are modern and appealing, but the food was underwhelming and service didn’t live up to the high standards we experienced elsewhere.

MONDAY MAY 2 WICKLOW

We took a taxi out to a rental car agency on the outskirts of the city and picked up our rental car. The weather had improved and we had a lovely drive into County Wicklow, just south of Dublin.

*THE CHESTER BEATTY INN – Ashford Village, Ashford, +353 404 40206 info@chesters.ieWe could have overnighted at the grand Powerscourt Estate, but thought it would be more fun to stay at a small inn. It’s mostly a restaurant with a few rooms attached. Our room was newly updated and very nice, a big step up from basic. We ended up being the only guests, so it was totally quiet. We had dinner at the inn, which was packed with locals, and served delicious typical pub fare in huge portions. They had staffing issues so we couldn’t get a cooked breakfast, however, the owner kindly left us a bag with cold items to eat in the morning.

*POWERSCOURT ESTATE & GARDENS – Daily 9:30 – 5:30; Waterfall 9:30 – 7. Our first stop in Wicklow was at Powerscourt, which is a gorgeous estate and hotel. We wandered around the lush gardens and limited indoor areas where guests are permitted. Definitely worth a visit, and perhaps a meal.

SALLY GAP (OLD MILITARY RD. R115) We took the scenic route to Glenalough over the mountains at Sally Gap, which was quite lovely, though a bit foggy that day.

***GLENDALOUGH MONASTIC SITE – Wicklow Mts. National Park. You can tour the remains of a Christian monastic complex with an impressive round tower, founded in the 6th C by St. Kevin, in a beautiful natural setting. Very popular site for good reason. A must see if you’re in Wicklow.

AVOCA VILLAGE – HANDWEAVING MILL, CAFÉ & STORE Daily 9:30 – 4:30 A dear friend of Irish descent gifted me a lovely Avoca throw blanket, so I was keen to see where it was made. The buildings are charming, especially the mill, though we were sad to find out that the mill was closed that day due to Covid, so I couldn’t see how the woven goods are crafted.

WICKLOW

Black Castle ruins - S. Quay, Corporation Lands Open 24 hours Wicklow is a small town on the sea and there are wide-ranging views of the harbor from the ruins site.We met mostly locals walking their dogs or taking in the fresh air.

Wicklow Head Lighthouse 1781 – Dunbur Head Terrible road to reach and it’s not open to visit so we would skip this.

TUESDAY - WEDNESDAY MAY 3 - 4 KILKENNY

In our opinion Kilkenny and Tipperary are must visit destinations if you’re interested in history. Kilkenny town was established in medieval times and boasts a great castle built by the Normans in 1195. There are many interesting churches, abbeys, towers and museums, and the town itself is well laid out and handsome, great for strolling around. We couldn’t check into our hotel until the afternoon, so in the early morning we drove past Kilkenny to County Tipperary to tour the Rock of Cashel when it first opened (about a 2-1/2 hr. drive from Wicklow), then headed back to explore Kilkenny County. There’s lots to see in this area. We’re early risers and energetic, so 2 days was good for us, but if you want to take it easy, 3 days might be recommended to see all of the sites.

*MT. JULIET ESTATE - Thomastown, County Kilkenny +353 56 777 3000 https://www.mountjuliet.ie/ Grand country estate built on the River Nore that is currently a Marriott property. The grounds are extensive and there are scenic walking trails along the river. Our room was spacious and comfortable with traditional decor, a fireplace, and a view of the river. It’s about 20 minutes drive from Kilkenny town along narrow country roads, so if you have only 1 night, it might be better to stay in town. We liked it, but it wasn’t among our favorite hotels.

TUESDAY MAY 3 TIPPERARY - KILKENNY

***ROCK OF CASHEL - Daily 9 - 7 (last entry at 6:15); 45 min. tour every hr on the 1/2 hr; The Rock of Cashel is a medieval holy site perched high on a limestone outcrop with several buildings, including an immense Gothic cathedral. It was originally the seat of the Kings of Munster and an important coronation location. We can’t imagine visiting Ireland and missing the Rock of Cashel unless you’re not interested at all in history or architecture. It’s truly spectacular! This is a very popular site so you may want to book tickets in advance, especially during the summer. We were early in the season just after Ireland reopened after Covid, and arrived before the site opened. We had bought tickets online for the first group of the regular tour, but had to purchase tickets for the guided tour of Cormac’s chapel on site. The chapel architecture is unique and it contains incredible Romanesque frescoes, so you won’t want to miss it.

**JERPOINT ABBEY Daily tour 10:30 & 2:30 This attractive abbey is only about 5 min. from Mt. Juliet, so after checking in, we drove over for the 2:30 tour. The most outstanding feature, aside from the architecture, are the fabulous stone sculptures dating from the 12th - 16th centuries, especially on the columns in the cloister arcades and on ancient sarcophagi. Highly worthwhile. Just down the road from the Abbey a farmer offers tours of his site, which contains a church and some interesting artifacts. His signage is meant to fool you into thinking its the site of the Abbey, and the price is too high for what it is, but he’s a fun character and we enjoyed the tour nonetheless.

*LADY HELEN RESTAURANT – Highly regarded restaurant in Mt. Juliet estate. Elegant atmosphere, if a bit staid. We enjoyed the meal, but it didn’t quite live up to our expectations.

WEDNESDAY MAY 4 KILKENNY

**KILKENNY CASTLE 12th C - We arrived in town early and walked around the grounds of the castle before heading inside to tour it. With 800 years of history, there’s a lot to learn along with sumptuous furnishings, tapestries and artwork. Views from the castle are beautiful.  

***THE ROS TAPESTRIES - There’s a gallery space in the castle that hosts changing art exhibitions, which happened to be displaying the magnificent Ros Tapestries, modern creations depicting the Norman history of New Ross and southeast Ireland. They were inspired by France’s famous Bayeux Tapestries. We had intended to see them in New Ross later on our trip, so we were fortunate that we discovered the exhibition, or we would have missed them. The last panel hasn’t been completed yet, but there was a drawing that illustrated what it will look like when done. Worth a trip to New Ros if they’ve moved back there when you visit.

**ST. CANICE'S CATHEDRAL & ROUND TOWER - 10 - 5, Sun. 2 - 5

This was one of our favorite sites in Kilkenny. You can take a self guided tour of the cathedral and climb up the tower for the views. The cathedral itself is well worth seeing, full of fascinating history, lovely stained glass and imposing tombs. There can be long lines for the tower in high season but there was no line that day, so we just walked over and got right in before touring the cathedral.

BLACK ABBEY Daily 9:30 – 5:30 A Dominican church established in 1225, it was named for the “Black Friars”. Quite a bit more simple than St. Canice, it’s still worth a look.

*MEDIEVAL MILE MUSEUM Daily 9:30 am - 4:30 pm Interesting archaeological finds, historical and religious relics, important documents and other artifacts. 

***ZUNI 26 Patrick St. Kilkenny. Since we were in town we decided to have a late lunch at Zuni and skip dinner. Whether you go for lunch or dinner, you’re in for a treat. The room is sleek and sophisticated, service is great and the food was excellent.  

THURSDAY - MAY 5 WEXFORD/WATERFORD

When we extended our itinerary we were able to add a night in Waterford and are very happy that we had time to do it. We started out driving to New Ross on the banks of the Barrow River. We no longer needed to see the Ros Tapestries, so we took a walk alongside the river to see the JFK Memorial before continuing down to the Hook Head Lighthouse at the bottom of the Hook Peninsula. We had bought advance tickets for the first tour of the day, though there was only one other person that morning, a young man from Dublin traveling via motorcycle. The guide was delightful, funny and very informative. She even posited that the origin of the expression “by Hook or by Crook” relates to the English invasion of Ireland in 1172 which aimed to land at one of these 2 port towns by any means. She asked where we were going next and advised us that we could save a lot of time by taking the car ferry across to Waterford rather than driving back up the peninsula and across. The directions she gave us were straightforward, so we took her advice. It was not only a time-saver, but a fun and scenic, though brief, boat ride. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we set out to see the sights in Waterford, a city rich in history, settled by the Vikings around 853 AD. 

GRANVILLE HOTEL Meagher Quay Waterford+353 51 305555granvillehotel.ie. This is a fairly nice traditional style tourist hotel popular with coach tours. It’s well located within walking distance of major attractions and across the road from Waterford Harbor.The room had all that we needed as well as a wide balcony with a view of the water.

WEXFORD COUNTY

***HOOK HEAD LIGHTHOUSE 13^th C One of the highlights of our time in the southeast. The light is impressive, at 800 years old it’s one of the oldest in the world and is still operating. The views are stunning. The tour was highly entertaining. Worth a detour.

*JFK STATUE – the Quay opposite Ros tapestry exhibition in New Ross. Eloquent memorial with an eternal flame commemorating President John F. Kennedy, the first Irish Catholic president of the USA. A short distance from the statue is the Dunbrody Famine Ship Museum which interprets the experience of emigrants during the Great Famine of the 1840’s.It wasn’t open when we arrived and we had to reach Hook Head by 10 am for our tour, so we skipped it, but it looked worthwhile to visit. We had learned much about this history at the EPIC Museum in Dublin in any case.

WATERFORD

***WATERFORD TREASURES - Mon - Fri. 9:15 - 5, Sat. 10 - 5, Sun. 11 - 5; 45 min. tours The Treasures is a group of 5 museums showcasing historical artifacts and displays. There is the Medieval Museum, Reginald's Tower, Bishop's Palace, Irish Silver Museum and The Irish Museum of Time.  Reginald’s Tower was closed during our visit so we only viewed it from outside. We took an excellent guided walking tour originating at the Bishop’s Palace that explained the town’s history from the Viking era through modern times, and explored the 4 museum collections on our own. We enjoyed all of it, though especially the Museum of Time where a gregarious docent spent a lot of time showing us around and chatting with us. There’s also a Viking Museum within this area but we skipped it.

*EVERETT’S 22 High St. Cozy restaurant with very good food and friendly service.

FRIDAY MAY 6 WATERFORD/ARDMORE

WATERFORD

**HOUSE OF WATERFORD CRYSTAL - Mon - Sat. 9 - 4:15, Sun. 9:30 - 4:15 We didn’t have time to visit the day we arrived, so we pre-booked the first tour of the day and headed over after breakfast. Even if you’re not a fan of Waterford Crystal, it’s still interesting to learn the history of the business, how the pieces are made and to ogle the creative designs. The Waterford logo features a seahorse (one of our favorite creatures), so we had to take home a crystal seahorse ornament as a souvenir.

ARDMORE

The main reason that we stopped in Ardmore was because the restaurant at Cliff House Hotel gets many accolades and we wanted to try it. Just a few days before we arrived the hotel called to advise that the kitchen would be closed for weeks due to an incident with the stove that necessitated repairs and they would be serving us in their bar restaurant. It was disappointing but we enjoyed our stay anyway. The hotel is located in a scenic area on a cliff overlooking the sea and there’s a wonderful trail that takes you past moody ruins, old churches and towers, and breathtaking sea views. It was so good we walked it twice.

***CLIFF HOUSE HOTEL Middle Road Ardmore; +353 248 7800 The hotel is only about an hour drive from Waterford, so we arrived in the early afternoon but had to wait past check-in time for our room. The bellmen were welcoming and helpful and the hotel is modern and elegant. Our room was beautifully designed with top notch amenities plus a balcony overlooking the sea where we watched a serene sunrise.  

THE BAR at CLIFF HOUSE - It’s a shame that their fine dining restaurant was closed because the casual one was fairly mediocre. There are nice views and service was attentive, but that didn’t compensate for the disappointing food. Breakfast the next morning was better but not among the best we had.

SATURDAY MAY 7 CORK 

Cork is the second largest city in the Republic of Ireland and, like most Irish cities, is rich in history. It has a reputation for great restaurants, though we didn’t have time to try many. There’s plenty to see, including a very good art museum. We had planned to visit the University campus, which was steps from our hotel, but ran out of time and energy.

***HAYFIELD MANOR Perrott Ave. College Rd. hayfieldmanor.ie +353 21 484 5900 This is a luxurious hotel set in a repurposed grand manor with beautiful gardens and excellent service. The day we arrived the hotel was overflowing with families celebrating the First Holy Communion of their children, so we saw many adorable girls dressed like little brides and boys in formal attire. With the parents’ permission Stu shot a stunning portrait of a girl he noticed sitting by a window, softly lit. It’s one of our favorite photos of the trip, and the family greatly appreciated the copies (in color and black and white) that Stu emailed to them. Our room was elegant in a charming old estate style, but fully updated with modern amenities. The restaurant is well regarded but though we didn’t have a chance to try it for dinner, breakfast was excellent.

**CRAWFORD ART GALLERY Emmett Pl., Centre; 10 - 8 Though named art gallery, this is a wonderful museum. Stu and I especially enjoyed a terrific painting of the actor, Fiona Shaw, and an exhibit of masterful works created by amateurs.

ENGLISH MARKET Princes St. 8-6 A covered market operating since 1788, this is a great place to browse food stands and many types of goods and grab a snack or meal. 

*ST. FIN BARRE'S CATHEDRAL 1879; Bishop St. 9:30-5:30 An enormous Anglican cathedral built in Gothic style on the site of earlier churches, it features lovely stained-glass windows and architectural details, and is dedicated to the patron saint of Cork.

*ELIZABETH FORT 17^th C Barrack St. 10-5 We paid a minimal fee for an audio self-guided tour of the star-shaped fort, which also served as a barracks, military station and prison. Though fairly small, the history is interesting, and we enjoyed it very much.

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE CORK Gaol Walk. Although the university was just steps from our hotel, we didn’t find time to visit, though we could see that it’s a handsome campus, worth spending some time.

**GREENE’S 48 MacCurtain St. We only had one night in Cork and there were so many good restaurants to choose from. Greene’s turned out to be a great choice. The food and wine were excellent and well-matched, the room was appealing and service was attentive and personable.

 SUNDAY - MONDAY MAY 8 – 9 COUNTY KERRY - KILLARNEY

It’s a fairly short drive from Cork to Killarney so we arrived quite early in the morning and were delighted to find that our room was available, so we were able to settle in before heading out to visit Muckross House, Gardens and Abbey. This is an area of great natural beauty with hills, 3 lakes and Killarney National Park. It’s usually the starting point for the famous Ring of Kerry drive. You can do the drive in one day, leaving from and returning to Killarney, but we chose to spend a couple of days here and then take our time on the drive for a more relaxed experience. That worked out well for us and we recommend it if you have sufficient time.

***AGHADOE HEIGHTS HOTEL & SPA – Lakes of Killarney, Killarney https://www.aghadoeheights.com/ +353 64 663 1766The hotel is a bit of distance from the city, so it was quiet and pastoral. We booked a deluxe room with stunning views of emerald pastures, The Paps Mountains, and Lough Lein. It was one of our favorite rooms on the trip, spacious, attractive and supremely comfortable. On our second night we dined in their in-house restaurant, The Lake Room, and enjoyed the meal and lake views. Breakfasts were pretty good but could have been improved. We didn’t use the spa or fitness facilities but there are many amenities available.

SUNDAY MAY 8 COUNTY KERRY 

*MUCKROSS HOUSE & GARDENS 9- 6 (last admission 4:40 pm); Once a family estate for the uber-wealthy for about 200 years, the extensive grounds and buildings on the shores of Lake Muckross are now an immense indoor-outdoor museum complex with the 19th C Victorian style great house, landscaped gardens, farms, a petting zoo, craft shops, picnic areas and a restaurant. You can easily spend an entire day here, with activities for children and adults alike, and we spent most of one.

**MUCKROSS ABBEY 1448 7:45 am – 8 pm A short walk (or drive) from the estate, the Abbey was established as a Franciscan monastery in the 15th C. It’s a ruin now, but an especially handsome one with interesting architecture, stone carvings, tombs, Celtic crosses and a cemetery. I believe that you can take a horse ride to visit, though we went on foot. Although we enjoyed everything at Muckross, the Abbey was our favorite feature.

TREYVAUD’S 62 High St. Killarney +353-64-663-3062 A small casual restaurant on the main street in Killarney, we had very fresh and tasty fish, though they offer meat and vegetarian dishes as well. The chef clearly takes pride in the food they serve.

MONDAY MAY 9 KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK

*ROSS CASTLE – 15^th C. Daily 9:30 – 5:45; last admission 5 pm. 45 min. On one of the few rainy days we experienced, we took a guided tour of Ross Castle. Built in the 15th C by the chieftain O’Donoghue Mór on the shores of Lough Lein, it features an immense square tower. According to legend O’Donoghue rises from the lake astride his white horse early in the morning on the first of May and if you spot him, you’ll have good luck for the rest of your life. Just missed our chance by a few days but enjoyed the history tour.

INISFALLEN ISLAND – We really wanted to take a boat ride to Inisfallen Island, so we hopped on one despite the unsettled weather. It was quite chilly, though the rain did stop for some of it. We spent a little time on the island touring the ruins of an ancient monastery before heading back. In better weather it would be a lovely excursion with beautiful views on the lake, yet still not bad despite the gloom.

TUESDAY MAY 10 IVERAGH PENINSULA - CAHERSIVEEN

Instead of driving around the Ring of Kerry and heading straight to Dingle at the end of the day, we decided to break our trip in Cahersiveen and continue on the next day. This worked out very well since it allowed us enough time to drive the Skellig Ring road and onto Valentia Island and still arrive in Cahersiveen in time to explore a bit. We actually liked the Skellig Ring a bit more, and Cahersiveen is a sleepy little village with a couple of minor attractions, so it’s a peaceful place to stay.

*QUNLAN & COOKE BOUTIQUE TOWNHOUSE – 3 Main St. Cahersiveen

qc.ie+353 (66) 947 2244 This is a small appealing hotel and restaurant right on the main street in town. We booked their best room, The Skellig’s Suite, since it promised a scenic view. The view was just ok, but the room was quirky and full of charm, as well as spacious and comfortable, so it was worth it. We had dinner in house. 

QC’s Seafood Restauran T. The fish was tasty, fresh and well prepared. They don’t serve hot breakfast, but they leave baked items along with goodies in your in-room fridge to enjoy breakfast when you please. We’re early risers so this suited us perfectly.

**RING OF KERRY DRIVE N70 

We had heard that the drive can be slow and packed with travelers and tour buses, but it wasn’t busy when we were there, undoubtedly because we started off very early and were a bit ahead of high season, plus places were just reopening after the Covid shutdowns. In the summertime you might want to consider other scenic drives that are also very beautiful yet less popular.

We headed south over the mountains via Molls Gap and drove the ring clockwise nearly all of the way around, but instead of closing the loop back in Killarney, we took the road to Dingle. There are many pretty towns and scenic overlooks to stop at along the way.

*KENMARE  Our first full stop was in Kenmare to see a mystical stone circle. This one is set in a field surrounded by trees and is more elliptical than round. Erected during the Bronze Age (2,200 – 500 B.C.) most believe that they were used for rituals and ceremonies. It had just opened so we were the only ones on site. There was an honor system for payment and they provided an informational pamphlet. It was stirring in the soft morning light.

DERRYNANE HARBOUR and BEACH The beach at Derrynane is splendid. We’d been driving awhile, and it was a glorious day, so we took a stroll on the sand to take in the sun and sea breezes.

***DERRYNANE HOUSE & GARDENS Daily 10:30 – 5:15 Near the town of Caherdaniel we visited the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, a lawyer, politician and champion for the rights of the Irish. In addition to artwork and artifacts belonging to him, you can learn about his heroic deeds and Irish history during the period from the early to mid 1800’s. His legacy is truly impressive. You can also visit the gardens, graced with colorful spring blossoms in May.

*WATERVILLE While passing through Waterville, which sits on scenic Ballinskelligs Bay, we noticed antique cars driving down the main street, so we pulled over to have a closer look and lucked into a rally featuring well-preserved vintage Bentley, MG, Frazier-Nash, Lagonda, Sunbeam, Talbot, SS100 (pre-Jaguar brand) and other vehicles. It was a fun surprise. While there, we spotted a whimsical statue of Charlie Chaplin to commemorate the 10 summers the gifted actor/comedian and film-maker and his family spent in town beginning in 1959.

**SKELLIG RING ROAD R567/566 

BALLINSKELLIGS PRIORY – We spent some time touring the ruins of a 12th C Augustinian abbey on the shore of Ballinskelligs Bay. 

*SKELLIG CHOCOLATES Since we both love chocolate, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see how Skellig chocolates are crafted and munch a few samples. Of course we brought some along for later.

***KERRY CLIFFS - Near Portmagee we enjoyed the spectacular views from the Kerry Cliffs. This is worth a detour. 

SKELLIG MICHAEL - UNESCO World Heritage Site monastery accessed by boat from Portmagee. We struggled with whether to go, but ultimately decided to skip it. It’s a very steep climb up and while my bad knee could handle the ascent, the descent most likely would have been too much. I would rather have taken a boat to Little Skellig to see the gannet and other seabird colonies.

VALENTIA ISLAND – We drove over the bridge to the island, drove around admiring the views, especially a rugged little lighthouse, from the highest point on the island, then hopped on the car ferry from Knightsbridge back to shore.

CAHERSIVEEN Back on the Ring of Kerry, we overnighted in Cahersiveen. After checking in at the hotel we drove off to see a couple of local attractions before dinner.

*CAHERGALL STONE FORT Built around 600 AD, this ring fort is one of the nicest of its kind that we saw

LEACANABUAILE STONE FORT - Close by Cahergall, it’s also worth seeing, though if you have time for just one, choose Cahergall.

WEDNESDAY - THURSDAY MAY 11 – 12 DINGLE (An Daingean)

We set out early and took the scenic route via Inch Beach to Dingle. We were lucky to have sunny weather again. Dingle has stiff competition since there are so many picturesque towns in Ireland, but it may just win that prize. Great beauty comes with a price since the town was fairly crowded, though still not annoyingly so. We can only imagine what it must be like during the summer. I could see spending a whole week here, not that there’s a ton to do (though the Slea Head Peninsula is amazing), but just to soak up the enchanting atmosphere and hang out in the pubs. We truly hated to leave.

***PAX HOUSE – Upper John St. Dingle +353 66 915 1518 https://www.pax-house.com/. I don’t think it would have been possible to find a better place to stay in Dingle. The guest house is located on a hill overlooking the town and harbor in a quiet residential neighborhood, so you’re removed from all of the noise and bustle, yet it’s an easy walk into town. There’s private parking so you can explore the Dingle peninsula without worrying about where to park in town, which can be a challenge. I had started communicating with the owner, John, years in advance as I was obliged to keep postponing our trip, and he couldn’t have been more understanding, gracious or helpful. The whole team is delightful and the breakfasts are true gourmet feasts, served in a bright airy room with breathtaking views of the sea and surrounding area. Our room had a huge terrace with the same views as the breakfast room and was exceedingly elegant and cozy. We don’t generally like returning to places we’ve already been, but we would love to stay here again.

WEDNESDAY MAY 11 DINGLE PENINSULA Although we took our time on the drive we arrived in Dingle very early. Luckily our room was ready, so we checked in, dropped our stuff and went to explore the Dingle Peninsula.

**SLEA HEAD LOOP R559 

The scenery along the Slea Head Loop is a knockout and there are lots of interesting sites to visit along the route. If you ever saw the movie Ryan’s Daughter and wondered where those gorgeous cliffs and beaches were shot, it was on the Dingle Peninsula. John gave us a booklet, with pictures no less, that he’d compiled detailing all of the attractions, including distances, so you’d be sure not to miss anything. I had my own notes, but this was very useful. On the drive we stopped at a cozy cafe on a point overlooking the sea for coffee and hot chocolate and a delicious freshly baked scone that we shared. I wish we’d thought to note the name of the place. It was the perfect stop for lunch or a snack. The loop isn’t very long, but if you make frequent stops it’s a relaxed half day excursion. If you want to hike more than a half-day it, it could be a full day venture.

**DUNMORE HEAD & COUMEENOOLE BEACH - This gorgeous area is where Ryan’s Daughter was filmed.

**DUN CHAOIN (DUNQUIN) LOOKOUT TO BLASKET ISLAND - Stunning overlook. This is a must-see location.

**CLOGHER HEAD Another spectacular viewpoint along the coast

***GALLARUS ORATORY- Ballyferriter – Rare well-preserved 8th - 9th C stone church. Aside from the scenery this was our favorite stop on the drive. While we were there a professional photographer was filming a priest performing some kind of ceremony. It’s a very small structure with a fascinating design. It may have provided shelter for religious pilgrims or served as a burial site.

KILMALKEDAR CHURCH - Ruins of a 12th C Romanesque church that includes a rare early medieval sundial as well as a burial ground.

FAHAN BEEHIVE HUTS - Stone monks’ cottages built between 8th - 12th C. It’s believed that when the monks left Skellig Michael they settled here.

LAND TO SEA Main St. +353-66-915-2609 Fair restaurant, though the meal didn’t quite live up to its high aspirations or price.

**THE DINGLE PUB - John recommended that we drop by the pub this evening to see a 5-time champion Irish step dancer, who also tends bar there. After dinner we grabbed the last 2 seats at the bar and I ordered the evening’s special, a Nutella martini. Yum! The place quickly filled to overflowing. We heard 2 traditional musical acts as well as seeing David Geaney’s exuberant dancing. It was raucous and tons of fun!

THURSDAY MAY 12 DINGLE

The weather wasn’t as sunny as the day before, so we were glad that we took the Slea Head drive then. We mainly explored the adorable town, shops and the aquarium and sampled some luscious ice cream. 

*DINGLE OCEANWORLD AQUARIUM - It’s a small space, but they had an assortment of the usual suspects, including jellies, penguins, sharks, turtles and river otters. It was a good way to spend some time while waiting for the weather to improve (which it did).

***OUT OF THE BLUE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT – Waterside +353-066-915-0811 Our favorite restaurant in Kerry. Reservations are essential since it’s hugely popular. The fish is fresh every day and perfectly prepared. Everything was scrumptious. It’s a busy though cozy space with personable service. In the warmer months there’s outdoor seating right across from the harbor.

***MURPHY’S ICE CREAM - There are 2 Murphy’s on Strand St. and in the evenings, there are long lines at both. We went around 11 am and had no wait, plus we had a chance to chat awhile with the friendly young lady behind the counter since she didn’t have other customers to attend to. The ice cream was rich and delicious with lots of creative flavors.

FRIDAY - SATURDAY MAY 13 - 14 – COUNTY LIMERICK

Limerick County offers lovely rural scenery and charming towns. Adare is considered to be one of the prettiest villages in Ireland, and it is appealing with its little thatched roof cottages, though we found it to be annoyingly crowded. We felt that Limerick city is greatly underrated, there’s lots to see and it’s quite attractive situated right on the River Shannon with many handsome Georgian townhouses. On our first day we visited Lough Gur and Adare and spent the next day in the city.

MUSTARD SEED COUNTRY HOUSE & RESTAURANT  Ballingarry mustardseed.ie When we planned to visit years earlier, we had booked Adare Manor, but found that there was an event there this time and no availability. Rearranging our entire itinerary would have been out of the question, so we found Mustard Seed. The people are incredibly kind and helpful, though the facilities could use an update .It was still comfortable, plus dinner at their restaurant was exceptional. Breakfast was hugely disappointing, a surprise considering the quality of dinner.

FRIDAY MAY 13 LOUGH GUR and ADARE VILLAGE

LOUGH GUR HERITAGE CENTER – Fri 10 – 5, Sat 12 – 6, An enormous park around the lake that is said to contain Stone, Bronze and Iron Age, Early Christian, Medieval & Post Medieval Period architecture and objects. The visitors center was closed even though we were there during posted hours and we didn’t end up finding much of interest, though we had a nice walk on various trails. There were some signs relating folklore relevant to the area, which was amusing. The largest stone circle in Ireland is near here but we didn’t discover it.

*HOLY TRINITY Abbey CHURCH 8 - 6 Now a Catholic Church, the Trinitarian abbey was originally established in 1230 AD. The order was founded in France and dedicated to rescuing Christian captives taken during the Crusades. The current church, which has been updated and expanded over the years, is splendid. It’s located on the main street in Adare so it’s easy to find and it’s free to enter.

***MUSTARD SEED RESTAURANT - Dinner in their formal dining room was truly exceptional. It’s the kind of place where you feel that you should dress up a little. Most of the other guests were local with many celebrating special occasions.The wine pairing was also excellent. Had we known how good this would be, we would have eaten here both nights of our stay to try more of the menu. Worth a special visit.

SATURDAY MAY 14 LIMERICK COUNTY & CITY 

Limerick is Ireland’s third largest city and was founded by the Vikings in 922 AD and incorporated in 1197, so it’s rich in history. The medieval section of town is charming and easily walkable.

***KING JOHN’S CASTLE 13th C - Daily 9:30 - 5; You can’t miss this imposing Norman castle towering over the surrounding buildings on the banks of the Shannon. This was the site of the first Viking settlement, and as you tour the castle, you can see where it was built on top of existing fortification. There are compelling multi-media history exhibitions, ancient objects and reenactments of the lives of those who lived here, such as blacksmiths, masons and soldiers. Docents dressed up as medieval characters share secrets and stories. We enjoyed this even more than we expected to and there are fun activities for children as well.

THE MILK MARKET- Mungret St. Fri. 10 -3, Sat. 8 – 3, Sun 11 - 3 Bustling market with food and various goods for sale. We enjoyed listening to the buskers and browsing the wares.

**THE HUNT MUSEUM – Rutland St. Mon. – Sat. 10 – 5, Sun. 2 - 5 If you enjoy art and artifacts, this small museum is a treasure trove. We spent far more time here than we had anticipated and thoroughly enjoyed it.

ST. MARY'S CATHEDRAL 1168 - Daily Mon-Fri. 9 – 5, Sat. 9 – 4, Sun. 1:30 – 4; We intended to visit but never got here due to limited hours on Sunday. We didn’t have time to do this and the Hunt Museum and overall are happy with our decision. From photos I’d suggest that it’s worth seeing if time allows.

CORNSTORE 19 Thomas St. Limerick +353 61 609 000 Since we were in town, we decided to have an early dinner here. It’s a modern, attractive place. The food was good but not noteworthy, and not nearly as good as Mustard Seed.

SUNDAY – TUESDAY MAY 15 - 17 COUNTY CLARE - DOOLIN 

The Cliffs of Moher are among the most popular attractions in Ireland and they really are impressive. There’s much to do in County Clare besides the cliffs, including The Burren and the lively town of Doolin, as well as an off-the-beaten path scenic loop drive, so we added a third day here when updating our itinerary and were glad to have done so. Doolin has a well-deserved reputation for great traditional music in its many pubs. You can take a ferry to the Aran Islands from here, but we read that the passage can be rough, so we chose to wait until we reached Galway.

***SHEEDY’S DOOLIN BOUTIQUE B&B – Rte 459 Doolin +353 86 0706263 info@sheedysdoolin.com We cannot recommend this place highly enough! One of the best B&Bs we’ve ever stayed in. It’s in town so you can walk to all of the pubs, and if you wanted you could hike to the Cliffs of Moher. We stayed in The Lighthouse room which was lovely and very comfortable with views of the countryside and the neighbor’s horses, donkey and puppies. Breakfasts offered a cornucopia of delights in an elegant light-filled room with a different hot specialty each day. The owners, Marian and Frank, are incredibly warm and helpful, true masters of hospitality. We also enjoyed meeting their well-behaved, friendly dog. Yet another wonderful place in Ireland that we’d love to revisit.

SUNDAY MAY 15 COUNTY CLARE

**BUNRATTY CASTLE & FOLK PARK – Daily 9 – 5:30 Bunratty is on the way from Limerick to Doolin, so we stopped there the first thing in the morning to tour the grounds. Built on the site of a wooden Norman fortress from 1250, the stone fortress has a turbulent history of conquest, destruction and rebuilding throughout the 14th C, ending up an Irish property and passing from the MacNamara to O’Brien clan until it was later surrendered to Cromwell’s forces. The interior showcases a marvelous collection of medieval furniture, tapestries, artwork, implements and artifacts. There are beautiful views from the castle ramparts. They also host a medieval banquet dinner replete with costumed servers and musical performers, though we skipped that. The 26 acre castle grounds include a folk village where you can learn how businesspeople and folks of more modest means on the estate lived. We spent a good amount of time chatting with the docents in the castle, shops and schoolhouse. They all shared interesting historical and personal information. There’s a farm, mills, a mansion and gardens to explore as well. We bought tickets online in advance just in case.

***CLIFFS OF MOHER – Our original plan was to visit the cliffs early in the morning on Monday before the crowds gathered. However, the weather was so sunny, clear and mild when we arrived that we thought we should take a look right away since the weather report wasn’t as favorable for the next day. We checked in at Sheedy’s, quickly unpacked, and headed over. The parking lot was jammed and so were the trails. It was still worth it, because the views were awe-inspiring. The farther you walked from the visitor’s center, the less people, so we spent a few hours and covered a good distance. We consider ourselves lucky since many have told us that they’ve only seen the cliffs through fog and mist, which must be atmospheric, though perhaps less satisfying.

***OAR RESTAURANT & ROOMS Toomullin Doolin +353 65 704 7990 This is the fine dining restaurant in the 4 room Oar boutique hotel. It’s closed on Monday and Tuesday, so Sunday was our only chance of dining there. Marian had kindly secured us a reservation well in advance of our arrival, which is mandatory since they have few tables and guests staying there are probably given booking preference. We didn’t try every restaurant in Doolin, but I believe that we can safely say that this is the finest one. The dining room is sophisticated, but the atmosphere is so relaxed that we found ourselves talking to guests at other tables, most of them Irish. We ordered the tasting menu to try more dishes and every course was delicious and artfully presented. I had a couple of fine glasses of wine to accompany the meal. Service was top notch. Great value for the cost. They don’t serve breakfast, so I’m glad that we stayed at Sheedy’s and only had dinner here.

MONDAY MAY 16 DOOLIN - THE BURREN

The Burren, meaning rocky place, is a fantastical karst landscape of limestone and dolomite, forming vast swaths of pavement, cliffs, sinkholes and caves. As expected the weather was changeable, though it didn’t prevent us from enjoying the sights, and we had a touch of rain but also some sun. We covered several sights in The Burren as well as strolling around Doolin and seeing the Cliffs of Moher from a boat in the evening. We started our drive north towards Fanone Beach, stopping midway to walk on a section of limestone stretching from the road to the sea. We continued along the coast to Ballyvaughan and down to Poulnabrone and Caherconnell Fort. We backtracked to see the birds of prey, took a coffee break at the Burren Perfumery then stopped at Kilfenora on our way back to Doolin.

*POULNABRONE DOLMEN 24 hrs. A neolithic portal tomb in a field. Remains of 33 people along with tools, jewelry and pottery were found at the site dating back to a 600 year period from 5200 - 5800 years ago.

CAHERCONNELL FORT 10 - 5 Family owned farm featuring a stone ring fort and offering sheepdog demonstrations. We toured the fort, but due to timing skipped the sheepdog demo. 

***AILLWEE CAVE & BIRDS OF PREY CENTER Daily 10-5:30, flying displays at 12, 2 & 4 pm We passed Aillwee on our way to Pounabrone, but we wanted to see a flying display, so we doubled back afterwards. We didn’t visit the cave but spent time viewing the various raptors and learning about them. The main goal of the center is conservation of and teaching about raptor species. The flying demonstrations are thrilling as the birds swoop overhead. We saw handlers fly a Barn Owl, Bateleur Eagle and Lanner Falcon, often right over our heads. 

**BURREN PERFUMERY AND TEA ROOM Marian recommended that we stop for refreshments and sample the perfume at this charming cafe down a remote road. It was worth the drive.

**KILFENORA CATHEDRAL (ST. FACHTNAN) & CELTIC HIGH CROSSES This Church of Ireland cathedral was erected from 1189 - 1200 on the site of a 6th C monastery built by St. Fachtnan. Part of the structure has no roof, but the intact section is still sometimes used for church services. There are some lovely carvings and architectural details among the ruins, but the cathedral is most famous for its collection of High Crosses, especially the magnificent Doorty Cross featuring a detailed bas-relief of bishops and a winged creature along with other iconic symbols.

*DOOLIN Doolin isn’t quite as adorable as Dingle, however it’s still an appealing town and a great base to explore County Clare, plus it’s renowned for music. There’s an upper section with a very nice ice cream shop among other stores, but most of the pubs and eateries seem to be in the lower section.

CLIFFS OF MOHER CRUISES PRIVATE SEAFARI We booked a private boat trip to view the Cliffs by sea, but it was a big mistake. We thought we’d be in a smaller vessel and would get closer to the bird colonies, especially the puffins, which was the main reason that we wanted to do this. We were just on the same big ferry as the public cruises and didn’t get anywhere near the cliffs. We saw a few puffins, razorbills and guillemots in the water and flying around, but mainly at a distance. In July we traveled to Newfoundland in Canada and had the bird watching experience we craved. Still the weather was pleasant and it was a nice to see the cliffs from a different perspective.

**McDERMOTT’S PUB In advance of our arrival Marian advised us that a renowned Uilleann pipes player, Blackie O’Connell, would be performing at McDermott’s during our stay and she booked us a table for dinner and the show, from which we had a good view. O’Connell, along with 2 other musicians playing a fiddle and an Irish Bouzouki (mandolin type stringed instrument) treated a packed house to a rousing night of trad music. Marian told us Blackie has fans who follow him from place to place. The food was tasty Irish pub fare in mammoth portions that we couldn’t hope to finish. It was the kind of fun, social experience you come to Ireland to enjoy.

TUESDAY MAY 17 LOOP HEAD PENINSULA

There are so many scenic coastal drives in Ireland that you’re spoiled for choice. What makes this one special is the lack of crowds. If we only had time to drive Slea Head or Loop Head, I’d probably choose Slea Head, but happily we had time for both and besides, I adore lighthouses, so that was a special treat even though we couldn’t go inside since they were doing repairs.

**LOOP HEAD LIGHTHOUSE The lighthouse sits on a cliff at the edge of the peninsula with panoramic views of the sea and landscape. It’s an attractive light and we would have liked to take a tour of it and the light keeper’s cottage, but they were closed. We spent a peaceful time walking around the grounds.

*KILKEE CLIFF TRAIL There are nice hiking trails along the Kilkee Cliffs and we took the 4 km trail to see the fanciful rock formations and views. From a distance you can spot sea birds nesting in the cracks in the cliffs.

**DOONAGORE CASTLE is a remarkable 16^th C tower situated on a hill high above Doolin and the coast. It’s pr

ivately owned and closed to the public, but still worth a drive up the narrow winding path because the views from there are jaw-dropping with the castle in the foreground. We were lucky that the clouds had dissipated because the early evening light was magical.

*FITZ’S We weren’t sure where to dine on our last night in Doolin. I had tried a week before (as suggested on their website) to book a table at Wild Honey Inn in nearby Lisdoonvarna in The Burren, since it has a stellar foodie reputation, but no one returned my phone call. Marian suggested we try Fitz’s, a cozy pub in the Hotel Doolin very close to the B&B. The hotel also has a finer dining restaurant, Glas, but that was only open on the weekend. Fitz’s is modern and stylish with comfy seating. The food was delish, nothing fancy, but fresh and very well prepared.

WEDNESDAY - THURSDAY MAY 18 - 19 GALWAY

While we enjoyed our stay in Galway, it wasn’t our favorite city, but it was a good jumping off point for the Aran Islands and other nearby attractions. We started the morning by visiting the ruins of Corcomroe Abbey in County Clare before viewing the Kilmacduagh Round Tower in County Galway. We had started out early and had some time to spare, so we decided to head inland to County Offaly to see Clonmacnoise (a wise decision) before continuing on to our hotel just outside Galway city. 

THE TWELVE HOTEL Barna Village, Galway - This boutique property is one of those hotels that looks better online than in person, but it was still good, and it has an award-winning restaurant named West. 

WEDNESDAY MAY 18 COUNTIES CLARE, GALWAY, OFFALY

*CORCOMROE ABBEY – The 13^th C Cistercian Abbey is set in a pastoral location in the Burren. While the abbey is in ruins, there’s a well tended graveyard attached to it. It’s free to visit 24/7, so it’s a perfect spot for an early morning or evening stroll, and at the hour we arrived we had the entire site to ourselves. There are helpful signs providing information about the abbey and its history.

**KILMACDUAGH MONASTERY AND ROUND TOWER Saint Colman MacDuagh founded the monastery near the town of Gort at the edge of the Burren. It’s an impressive site, particularly due to the well-preserved 7th C Round Tower. At 34.5 m ((113 ft.) it’s said to be the tallest in Ireland and is known for its visible lean, like the Tower of Pisa. Monks could climb the tower in the event of an attack, so windows and the door were strategically placed for defense and protection of church treasures. You can’t climb the tower, but it’s worth seeing in this tranquil setting. This is also a free 24/7 spot with informative signage, so we were there early. As we were walking back to our car, a tour group arrived, so our timing was perfect.

***CLONMACNOISE MONASTIC SITE 10 - 6; This was on our wish list if time allowed since it was quite a ways off our driving route, but after visiting it I would urge you not to miss it if you’re interested in history, architecture, archaeology and/or religious art. The monastery was built by Saint Ciarán in the 6th C and became an important seat of learning in Europe. The ruins, in a picturesque setting on the banks of the River Shannon, include a Cathedral, several churches, 2 round towers, 3 High Crosses and an early Christian graveyard. The masterfully carved High Crosses and some tombstones are in a museum on site to preserve them, but there are replicas on the grounds so you can appreciate where they had been placed. There’s an informative video to watch as well. Allow enough time to see everything, it’s definitely worth a detour.

*KAI RESTAURANT 22 Sea Rd. Galway kairestaurant.ie The room is cozy and intimate with a modern rustic vibe. There’s a limited menu since all of the food is fresh and locally sourced. We thought everything we ordered was very good, though not exceptional.

THURSDAY MAY 19 GALWAY

The most interesting section of Galway is the Medieval quarter, locally known as The Latin Quarter, with its enchanting shops, pubs, street art and buskers. We discovered a small cafe with a young Spanish woman selling freshly made churros and stopped for a treat. We didn’t expect such a large portion, so we shared them and some conversation with a young man who appeared a bit down on his luck. He’d never had churros before and was greatly pleased. They were divine. We also popped into a second-floor shop that sells and repairs musical instruments to admire their wares, as well as sampling a couple of pieces of chocolate at a confectioner’s store.

GALWAY CATHEDRAL 8:30 am - 6:30 pm We started the day at this modern Roman Catholic cathedral built around the middle of the 20th C. It’s an imposing, though not especially attractive, structure on the west bank of the Corrib River. The interior is far more appealing than the exterior with interesting carvings and stained glass, though you can easily skip this.

**ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH 10-1, 2-4Constructed in 1320, St. Nicholas is the largest medieval parish church in Ireland still in active use. While built on a smaller scale than the cathedral, it possesses the grace and allure that the cathedral lacks with many architectural details and ancient artifacts to admire.

SPANISH ARCH The stone arch was built as one of 4 in 1584 as an extension to the 12th C city wall erected by the Normans. It served as a portal to the city and soldiers barracked there to watch over the quays and man the cannons on the roof given its position next to the river. You can’t enter, it’s mainly a cool photo op these days.

**WEST RESTAURANT in The Twelve Hotel. We arranged in advance for a special Chef’s Table dinner to fully experience the creations of the talented chef. We had a comfy table in the kitchen where we could watch all of the action. We were served by the chef, his sous-chefs and the sommelier, who explained the dishes and wines to us, and had great opportunities to engage with them in a casual way. The food was superb, fresh and hyperlocal, prepared and presented in inventive ways, and I appreciated the well chosen wine pairings. The chef told us that he was just about to move on to a new challenge, so we can’t say how the new one compares. 

FRIDAY – SATURDAY MAY 20 – 21 INIS MEÁIN

The 3 main Aran Islands off the west coast in Galway Bay are, in size order, Inis Mór (Inishmore), Inis Meain (Inishmaan) and Inis Oírr (Inisheer), Inis being the Gaelic word for island. These rocky windswept isles, forged of karst limestone like the Burren, are inhabited by about 1300 people, with 160 on Inis Meain. Rugged and self-sufficient, they still speak Irish as well as English. Fishing, agriculture and highly skilled knitting had been chief occupations, though tourism is a major industry now. The islands are crisscrossed by low medieval stone walls amid ancient churches, beehive huts and forts. They’ve inspired the wickedly inventive black humor of Martin McDonagh, one of our favorite writers and directors, including his marvelous latest film, the Oscar-nominated Banshees of Inisherin (a fictional mashup of the 3). For that reason, as well as the scenery and an opportunity to see a different side of Irish culture, we knew we had to visit. In our original itinerary we had booked 2 nights on Inis Meain and a night on Inis Mór. However, after the pandemic closures the B&B on Inis Mór changed their policy to require 2-night minimum stays. Adding another night didn’t work with our subsequent plans, in addition, the ferry between the islands had changed its schedule from morning to afternoon, so we wouldn’t have had much time to explore the island anyway, and we decided to skip it. Our time on Inis Meain was one of the major highlights of our trip. We wish we could have stayed longer.

AER ARANN ISLANDSConnemara Airport, Inveran, 

From County Galway you have the choice of taking the Aran Island Ferries from Rossaveal (Ros a Mhil) or hopping on a 10-15 min. flight on Aer Arann Islands to reach the Aran Islands. We opted for the flight both ways to save time and in case the sea was rough. The airline and ferry communicate, so if the plane is unable to make it, they’ll transport you to the ferry as a backup. If the weather is so bad that neither can go, well you just have to wait. Lucky for us we had beautiful weather on the way over and there was only a minor delay due to mainland fog on the way back. The views of the islands and the coast from the small plane were gorgeous. We parked our car for free in the lot at the tiny regional airport and picked it back up on our return.

***INIS MEÁIN RESTAURANT & SUITESinismeain.com One of the reasons that we chose to stay on Inis Meain was due to the reputation of this hotel and its restaurant, but also because it seemed so peaceful and off the beaten path. With only 5 suites and a limited season, reservations were nearly impossible to get, especially since former guests were given preference for new reservations and many returned every year. I actually based the timing of our itinerary around availability here and worked out the other stops around it. I had miraculously secured a reservation for 2020 and fortunately the owners, Marie-Thérèse and Ruairí de Blacam, allowed us to move our booking forward twice since they were closed in May in 2020 and 2021. All I can say is that it was entirely worth the cost and effort to stay here. The bad news is that 2022 was the last year that they booked the rooms individually. The property is evolving into a self-catering holiday rental for small groups. It isn’t clear yet whether it will accommodate a couple since their website hadn’t been updated when I last checked. I had taken the only room available, which was the Connemara Suite, the largest one, which will be a communal living area for the group staying in the 4 stone house suites going forward. Set on a hill with tall wraparound windows, the views were breathtaking! We had a fireplace, spacious living and dining rooms, kitchenette, a tasteful bedroom and well-equipped bathroom. While minimalist in design, it was still very cozy and inviting. Although the building is sleek and modern, it’s built of stone and blends in perfectly with the island esthetic. 

When we arrived Ruairí picked us up at the airstrip and drove us to the inn. That day we visited THE ARAN ISLANDS KNITTING CO. a business founded and still run by Ruairí’s family, leaning into the tradition of the fine knitwear made by women on the island. We met his mother in the store, which also has some interesting historical exhibits about the island. While pricey, the sweaters, coats, blankets and other items are exquisite. Afterwards we took a short hike down to the shoreline and back. We had reserved dinner in their restaurant for both nights of our stay, and both meals were memorable, served in an elegant dining room with killer views. The next morning a healthy cold breakfast was delivered to our suite early and a bit later we received a backpack with a thermos of hot soup, bread and a sweet so we could explore the island and enjoy a picnic lunch. There were bikes, binoculars, walking sticks, fishing poles and other amenities to use as well as detailed instructions about walking trails and sights to see. The island is only 4 km (2.5 mi.) long by 2.5 km (1.55 mi) wide, and largely flat, so it’s easy to cover most of it in a day.

The weather was ideal, mild and mostly sunny with a brisk wind in the higher elevations, and we had clear views throughout our hike. In the afternoon we settled on a rock by a picturesque cove and savored our lunch. It was perfect. A young male hiker came by and stopped to jaw with us for awhile before continuing on his way. We also ran into a married couple who were staying at the inn and who were biking around. Inis Mór has the famous Dún Aonghasa (Dun Aengus), but there are also 2 stone ring forts on Inis Meain along with other interesting sites. On our walk we spotted various birds and some wildflowers, but it was the scenery and serenity that really enchanted us.

*TEACH SYNGE & CATHAOIR SYNGE - The playwright and poet, John Millington Synge, spent 5 summers here and the cottage where he stayed and his “chair”, an enclosed rock perch formerly used as a shipwreck lookout with jaw-dropping views of Inis Mór and the sea, are popular attractions. The thatched cottage wasn’t open to visitors when we were there, but still worth seeing from the outside. The chair is signposted so you can’t miss it or the opportunity to share the views that inspired the writer.

AN CLOCHAN (BEEHIVE HUT) - 6th C. Likely used to shelter pilgrims.

**Séipéil Eoin agus Naomh Muire gan Smál - CHURCH OF THE HOLY MARY OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION - A big name for a small church. Although it’s a modern structure, built in 1939, the style and features, such as the bell tower built of stones from a 15th C church nearby, and the baptismal font, enhance its distinctive character. What you don’t expect in such a modest church are the splendid stained glass windows from the studio of Harry Clarke and the intricate handmade timber ceiling.

*Dún Chonchúir(CONOR’S FORT, AKA THE BLACK FORT) Constructed on the highest point on the island, it’s hard to miss this massive elliptical-shaped fort, said to date from the 1st - 7th C AD.  

Dún Fearbhaí - Square with rounded corners, this fort is smaller than Dún Chonchúir, but still worth seeing.

SUNDAY - MONDAY MAY 22 -23 COUNTY MAYO

We originally planned to spend one night here but changed to two after deciding not to visit Inis Mór. The countryside is beautiful and the town of Cong is adorable. We enjoyed the area quite a bit.

**ASHFORD CASTLE, Cong, County Mayo; +353 94 954 6003 ashfordcastle.com We couldn’t resist the opportunity to stay in an authentic Irish medieval castle. Built in 1228 by the DeBurgo family and later the home of the Guinness family, the castle is situated in a lavishly landscaped 350-acre estate on the banks of Lough Corrib and the River Cong. It takes full advantage of its location to offer a whole slew of activities, including fishing, boating, horseback riding, golf, clay shooting, archery, tennis and falconry, most for an additional cost. Since I had originally booked only one night, when our plans changed we were unable to get the same room type for the first night of our stay and had to move. I would have expected a hotel of this stature to figure out a way to keep us in one room to avoid that inconvenience, even if it entailed an upgrade, however it gave us the advantage of seeing 2 different types of room, and they moved our belongings for us, though we had to pack and unpack. Our first room was larger and more effectively laid out with a lovely view of the river and stone gate bridge. The lake view room, which was supposed to be superior, was much smaller and oddly laid out, though the lake view was stunning. Unless you can afford a lake view suite, I’d choose the river view room. The problem with a castle is the labyrinthine corridors, which made it difficult to find our way around. In fact, the young woman who showed us to our room the first time lost her way. The public spaces were as opulent as you’d expect. It was easiest for us to have dinner on the estate, so we tried 2 of their 9 restaurants. Breakfasts in the George V dining room were sumptuous, including a luscious ham that is slow roasted overnight and sliced at the table. 

SUNDAY MAY 22 COUNTY GALWAY - CONNEMARA

***KYLEMORE ABBEY & VICTORIAN WALLED GARDEN – Daily 9:30 – 5:30 This is one of the most beautiful estates in Ireland, including the buildings, gardens and pastoral lake setting. We drove straight here from the Connemara Airport to tour the grounds. The castle was built by a businessman in 1868 and in 1920 became a Benedictine Abbey. The nuns still conduct spiritual activities as well as producing crafts such as soap, candles and chocolate. Exhibits describe the estate’s and Benedictine’s history and showcase period furnishings. Although we only spent a few hours, you could spend most of a day here. In addition to the Abbey, there’s a marvelous neo-Gothic church, extensive walled gardens, a Mausoleum, walking trails, a cafe, shop, and more. We didn’t have ideal weather, but still hugely enjoyed our visit.

SKY ROAD - A 12 mi. scenic loop in the Connemara region near Clifden. Despite the unsettled weather, it was a pleasant drive with lovely landscape and views.

***WILDE’S AT THE LODGE In addition to Ashford Castle, there are more modest accommodations on the estate in the former home of the Castle’s Estate Manager, built in 1865.They have 2 restaurants and Wilde’s is a terrific dining choice. It’s a fair distance from the castle, but the bellmen will provide transportation to and from if you’d rather not walk. There were a few minor gaffes in the service, however they were easy to overlook given the endearing personality of our server and the skilled and attentive sommelier. The food was delicious and the wines were excellent. The sommelier was a young Frenchman with a clear passion for wine. His choices and descriptions were a big highlight of our experience.

MONDAY MAY 23 CONG

**LOUGH CORRIB HISTORY CRUISE - We took a boat ride on the lake with the owner, Patrick Luskin, an amusing captain and historian who shared fascinating details about the area and its inhabitants. It was a peaceful trip on a beautiful morning.

**IRISH WOLFHOUNDS The estate has kept Irish Wolfhounds for many years and there are even statues of these remarkable hunting dogs flanking the main entrance of the castle. We had an opportunity to meet them in the billiards room. They were calm having just returned from their morning walk in the woods. We knew they’d be large but had no idea of how immensely tall they would be. Their guardian told us they were bred to hunt wolves (hence the name), so they can also be surprisingly fierce.

ASHFORD ESTATE - After meeting the hounds, we took a leisurely stroll around the estate and continued across the river to Cong.

**CONG - The town is exceedingly comely with a couple of interesting attractions. The John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara movie, The Quiet Man, was filmed here and on the castle grounds and there’s a fun statue in town commemorating the film as well as a small museum. They also air the film for free in Ashford Castle’s onsite movie theater. We enjoyed exploring the 12th C Augustinian Cong Abbey ruins and spotting Merganser Ducks in amorous pursuit on the River Cong.

*GEORGE V Ashford Castle – George V is Ashford’s premium restaurant, named after the British king who dined there in 1905. Breakfasts as well as one dinner there were included with the room package we selected. For a small additional charge we were able to upgrade to the 8 course Tasting Menu and decided to have the full experience, including a premium wine pairing for me. The room is posh with Waterford Crystal chandeliers and luxurious decor. The food was extraordinary, though not quite at the level of Patrick Guilbaud. We thought that the service didn’t match the rest, in fact, service at breakfast was far superior. When you have a tasting menu it’s customary for the server to describe the dish and for the sommelier to offer information about the wine. The presentation is part of what you pay for. Only one server described one of the courses (and very well at that), and the sommelier offered nothing. Once I inquired about a pour to draw him out and he said (no exaggeration) “It’s a dry white”. I gave up after that, either he didn’t know anything or didn’t feel like sharing the information with me. The young sommelier at Wilde’s should have been serving at their flagship restaurant. The food was undeniably better here, but we enjoyed the overall experience at Wilde’s more for a much lower price.

TUESDAY – WEDNESDAY MAY 24 – 25 SLIGO/DONEGAL

On our way to Donegal, we stopped by Sligo to see the megalithic burial sites at Carrowmore and Carrowkeel as well as browsing around Sligo town. Being great admirers of the poetry of WB Yeats’ we had to see his gravesite at Drumcliffe Church. Donegal, located in the northeast of Ireland adjacent to Northern Ireland, is known for its rugged coastal scenery and heritage so there’s plenty to see.

*HARVEY’S POINT – Lough Eske Rd. Donegal; +353 74 972 2208 https://harveyspoint.com Comfortable hotel on the shore of Lough Eske with a congenial team. Our lakeshore suite had a patio and a view of the lake.

TUESDAY MAY 24 COUNTY SLIGO

*CARROWMORE & CARROWKEEL MEGALITHIC CEMETERIES 4th millennium BC stone passage tombs. Worth seeing, though they can’t quite compare to Newgrange and Howth in County Meath.

**SLIGO ABBEY – Daily 10 – 6 The remains of a Romanesque style Dominican convent founded in 1253 with a large church and cloisters. Along with the graceful architecture there are detailed carvings, tombs and a 15^th C high altar.

*BEN BULBEN - The most striking geographical feature in Sligo County is this flat-topped rock formation, reminiscent of Table Mountain in Capetown. There are hiking trails which afford expansive views, but we just viewed it in the distance.

***DRUMCLIFFE/ST. COLUMBA’S CHURCH & W.B. YEAT’S GRAVE Daily 8:30 - 6 While Yeats never lived in Sligo, he spent idyllic summers with his grandparents here that inspired his work. He wished to be buried “Under Ben Bulben” (one of his final poems) and in fact there are glorious views of it from here. He died in Menton, France and was originally buried there, but was moved to Sligo. His gravestone is austere but is inscribed with the last 3 lines of his poem. It’s quite moving. The church is worth seeing with its soaring bell tower and magnificent organ. It was built on the site of a 6th C monastery and there are remarkable high crosses, one dating back to the 11th C, plus the base of an ancient round tower.

*THE LAKESIDE RESTAURANT – Harvey’s Point. Since the hotel was a bit far from town, we had dinner both nights in their onsite restaurant. The dining room was lovely with views of the lake and gardens. The food was very good and service was attentive and friendly. In the morning they offered a well-provisioned breakfast buffet plus hot dishes.

WEDNESDAY MAY 25 COUNTY DONEGAL

FANAD HEAD LIGHTHOUSE We had planned to visit the lighthouse, but due to the weather ended up skipping it.

*SLIEVE LEAGUE (SLIABH LIAG) Sliabh Liag is a 601 m (1,972 ft) mountain on the Atlantic coast. The surrounding cliffs are among the highest in Europe and second highest in Ireland. There’s a steep path winding up the mountain to afford widespread views of the cliffs and sea. Despite a driving rain and high wind, we ascended the path and the rain let up enough so that we could still enjoy the spectacular scenery.

*GLENVEAGH NATIONAL PARK & CASTLE - Located in the Derryveagh Mountains on Lough Veagh, the park has various hiking paths as well as a Victorian castle and its gardens. There’s a shuttle from the visitor’s center to the castle, but we walked both ways. The castle wasn’t open for tours the day that we were there, but normally you can visit inside. The gardens were beautiful.

DONEGAL CASTLE & FRANCISCAN FRIARY - Sadly we didn’t have time to visit these sites, though they seem interesting.

NORTHERN IRELAND, UK 

After Brexit, we were wondering what the border crossing would be like, but the only indication that we had driven into Northern Ireland was that the speed limit changed from kph to mph. We hit the road early to take a guided tour of Derry before continuing on to County Antrim. While the primary focus of our trip was the Republic, there were a few things we wanted to see in Northern Ireland, and we were fortunate to have enough time for both.

THURSDAY MAY 26 – FRIDAY MAY 27 BUSHMILLS

Bushmills is a cute town most well known for the Old Bushmills Distillery, licensed in 1608 to make Irish single malt whisky. It’s also a perfect jumping off point to visit the Giant’s Causeway and other attractions.

*BUSHMILLS INN – 9 Dunluce Rd. Bushmills; +44 28 2073 3000 A boutique hotel with traditional style located on the town’s main street. Our suite was very spacious and well-equipped, and featured a Juliet balcony with views of the meager Bush River. Good choice for the area.

THURSDAY MAY 26 DERRY/LONDONDERRY

Derry was fascinating. Notorious for Bloody Sunday and The Troubles, it’s rich in history, both ancient and modern, and oozes with character. We arrived a bit before our tour time and had hot drinks and shared a scone in a casual cafe while waiting.

***DERRY GUIDED TOURS - CITY WALLS 1613-18 & BOGSIDE TOUR - 9:30 am +44 7989150821 info@derryguidedtours.com

I booked a private tour with Gleann Doherty who operates the business. We walked on the city walls while he described Derry’s early history and politics, then descended into Bogside to learn more about the compelling modern civil rights history and to view the heartrending street murals, which he interpreted for us, and the Bloody Sunday Monument. Gleann has a personal connection to Bloody Sunday that adds deeper context to the events. Very highly recommended. One of the major highlights of the trip.

TOWER MUSEUM - Union Hall Place; Daily 10-5:30 Although we had learned much history during our tour, we visited the museum to further enhance our understanding. Very helpful staff.

GUILDHALL 1887 - Guildhall St.; 9-7:30 The city’s town hall where council members and the mayor meet. You can enter for free to see their beautiful stained-glass windows, art and other displays.

*ST. COLUMB’S CATHEDRAL – 17 London St.; Mon – Sat 9-5 The Anglican Cathedral is the oldest building in Derry, completed in 1633, though it was remodeled in the 1800’s. The interior is resplendent with stained glass, paintings, mosaics, fine woodwork, carvings, tombs and other features. Volunteers were keen to share its history and answer questions.

*SHIPQUAY RESTAURANT 15-17 Shipquay St. Derry While we usually skipped lunch, we had left Donegal before breakfast was served and only grabbed a snack at a coffee shop once we reached Derry, so we took a break for a meal. The restaurant is located within an elegant same-named boutique hotel. We wanted something fairly light, so we both had the Superfood Salad with quinoa and veggies, mine with added prawns and Stu’s with chicken. Both were excellent! 

BUSHMILLS INN RESTAURANT - The restaurant at our hotel was pretty good, but we wouldn’t go out of our way to dine there again. 

FRIDAY MAY 27 COUNTY ANTRIM 

We had planned to see The Giant’s Causeway early in the morning before the crowds gathered, but the day started out rainy and windy, so we chose to hang out at the hotel until the weather improved. Because of this, we didn’t get to do everything we had hoped to, for example there’s a scenic drive around Antrim Glens that we missed, but overall we were happy with plan B.

***GIANT’S CAUSEWAY - This natural formation of about 4,000 basalt pillars resulted from layers of cooling lava 50 - 60 million years ago extending into the sea along the coast and resembling huge polygonal paving stones. According to local legend the Irish giant, Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool), built the causeway to reach Scotland in order to do battle with a Scottish giant, Benandonner, over land claims to Ireland. Benandonner was much larger than Fionn expected, so he tricked him into retreating by disguising himself as a baby. Benandonner thought the father must be gargantuan if the baby was so immense. It’s an amusing tale, but the site is stupendous whether you believe the scientific or mythical explanation. As we expected, there were a lot of visitors due to its popularity, though it still wasn’t very crowded. You can walk out on the stones which are set at the bottom of a high cliff. There are several trails, some ascending the cliff, affording spectacular views, so we spent a few hours hiking around.

***CARRICK-a-REDE ROPE BRIDGE 9:30 - 5 https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/northern-ireland/carrick-a-rede

Pre-booking essential. The original rope bridge was built by salmon fishermen in 1755 to link the mainland to the island of Carrick-a-Rede, which has only one building, a fisherman’s cottage. The bridge is about 30 m (98 ft.) high and spans 20 m (66 ft.) above the Atlantic Ocean. The views are said to be phenomenal. It’s since been rebuilt for safety reasons and is now used as a tourist attraction. There are also walking trails along the coast. We really wanted to experience this, however, when I tried to book tickets in advance, I found that it was closed, though I can’t recall if it was still closed due to Covid or if it was due to the weather. In any case we missed it, but you might be luckier. Even though we didn’t get to see it, I gave it 3 stars since it has to be amazing.

***DUNLUCE CASTLE 9:30 - 5; About 20 minutes from the rope bridge are some of the most charismatic medieval castle ruins that you can imagine. Perched on a cliff jutting into the sea, it’s like a romantic scene out of Wuthering Heights. The views are breathtaking. Signage on-site relates the dramatic history of the clans fighting over it beginning in 1500 when it was first erected by the MacQuillan family. As if that’s not enough romance, there’s also a myth concerning a banshee associated with it. 

OLD BUSHMILLS DISTILLERY 1608 Since we were very close to the distillery, we decided to take a tour. Neither of us drinks whisky, however we thought the distilling process would be interesting and it’s such a historic site that it would be fun. As it turns out this is undoubtedly the most popular site in Antrim. We found out that tours had been booked up for weeks in advance. We took a walk around the grounds to see the old buildings, which are very appealing, and went to the bar so I could sample the whiskey. The bartender snuck me a free taste. I’m sure it’s great, but it did nothing for me. Another disappointment, so if you really want the tour, book as far in advance as you can.

**TARTINE AT THE DISTILLERS ARMS 140 Main St. + 44 28 2073 1044 There’s nothing gourmet about the menu, they serve typical dishes very well prepared and delicious. The room is cozy and inviting and the service was great.We enjoyed this dinner quite a lot.

SATURDAY – SUNDAY MAY 28 - 29 BELFAST

Belfast is a short drive from Bushmills, so we arrived fairly early in the morning. We left our bags at the hotel and went exploring. The Titanic Museum was our top priority, however it was the street art that totally blew us away. We had found quite a bit during our wanderings on Saturday, but on Sunday we hit the motherlode. You can take art tours, either on foot or by car, as well as discovering the murals on your own.

*THE MERCHANT HOTEL  16 Skipper St. +44 28 9023 4888

www.themerchanthotel.com The hotel was built in the mid-1800’s to be the headquarters of the Ulster Bank and became the Merchant Hotel in 2006. The architecture is impressive, and the interior spaces emphasize its old world grandeur. The bedrooms are decorated in either Victorian or Art Deco style and we thought it would be fun to try an Art Deco room. It wasn’t our favorite hotel, but it was comfortable, and we appreciated all of the period touches. Breakfasts were good, though nothing special.

SATURDAY MAY 28

**CATHEDRAL QUARTER and CENTRAL BELFAST - We just wandered around admiring the street art and architecture. 

*St. Anne's Cathedral/BELFAST CATHEDRAL Donegall St. This stately cruciform Anglican Cathedral was built in 1903 around St. Anne’s Church, which had been in use since 1776. Once the cathedral was finished the old church was demolished.

**ST. GEORGE’S MARKET- Donegall Quay - As we walked around, Stu commented on a young woman’s adorable dog and she stopped to chat with us. She recommended that we check out the market and pointed out the way. It turns out that we were headed there already, but the interaction left us with a fond memory. The market is fabulous, lots of fun merchandise, food stalls and music.

MARK & KIM - Stu became acquainted with Mark, a fellow photographer, on the Leica Forum and we met him and his wife for a light lunch at a cool restaurant close to our hotel. They’re a delightful couple and we enjoyed having the chance to spend some time together and hear their insiders’ perspective.

***OX– 1 Oxford St. Located across the road from the River Lagan, Ox is a sleek, contemporary restaurant in a storefront setting. Service was top notch, and the food and wine were wonderful. Without a doubt our best meal in Northern Ireland. I reserved online well in advance.

SUNDAY MAY 29 

***TITANIC BELFAST 1 Olympic Way – 9 - 6 Since this is such a popular attraction, I had booked our visit before leaving home and selected the first tour of the day. We enjoyed the walk over from our hotel and discovered some fun sculptures along the quay, among which were stained glass representations of characters from Game of Thrones. The museum is built on the river and the modern architecture is stunning. While neither of us is a big fan of James Cameron’s Titanic movie, the history of the ship is engrossing, and the museum is extraordinary. It was entertaining, heartbreaking, and educational with many interactive exhibits. We think it’s worth a trip to Belfast just to visit it, though there’s so much more to see in the city as well.

**SS NOMADIC – Daily 10 - 6 The Nomadic was built as a tender to shuttle passengers from shore to the Titanic when the mighty ship was moored in deeper water, and on Titanic’s maiden voyage it did transport some unfortunate souls from Cherbourg to the ship. Although Titanic didn’t survive, the Nomadic remained in service for many years, including during both WWI and WWII, and was reimagined as a restaurant and party venue moored in the Seine near the Eiffel Tower. 

***KENT STREET - We were looking for a gelato shop and noticed a couple eating some, so we asked where they got it. After they pointed out the location, they saw that Stu was photographing a mural across the street and told us where to find a veritable treasure trove of them. So, Stu’s ice cream addiction lead to a wonderful highlight of our visit. Kent is the main drag but there’s also loads of art on the side streets around it. One of our favorites was on North St. called Let Me Unsee by an Irish artist called Asbestos which depicts the plight of technological overload on the senses.

**THE GREAT ROOM Merchant Hotel There weren’t many choices on a Sunday evening, so we dined in the hotel’s fine dining restaurant. They serve a limited menu on Sunday, but the decor is gorgeous, the food was very good and the Profiterole Swans for dessert were both whimsical and sinfully delicious.

BACK TO THE REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

MONDAY - TUESDAY MAY 30 - 31 COUNTY MEATH 

We chose to finish off our grand road tour in County Meath since it’s fairly close to Dublin Airport without having to navigate Dublin traffic, plus there are significant historical and archaeological sights to see.

*BELLINTER HOUSE Navan, Co. Meath +353 46 903 0900 bellinterhouse.com A Georgian home built around 1850 as a country estate, it’s the kind of property that often hosts weddings and other social events. There are bedrooms in the main house and in 2 other buildings on the beautifully landscaped grounds, and the public spaces are full of warmth and character. We had a spacious room in the main house and while we appreciated the lush period style, we thought the room, and especially the bathroom, might have benefited from some upgrades. We were still pleased overall, particularly with the gracious and helpful team and lovely restaurant. In addition, it was well located within easy driving distance to the sites we wanted to visit.

MONDAY MAY 30 COUNTY LOUTH & COUNTY MEATH

***MONASTERBOICE MONASTIC SITE - ROUND TOWER, 10TH C HIGH CROSSES On the drive from Belfast, we stopped in County Louth to see the ruins of this former Christian settlement. While the monastery was burned in 1097, the remaining round tower and magnificent, intricately carved high crosses, particularly Muirdeach's Cross, the tallest in Ireland, and the West Cross, are well worth seeing.

**OLD MELIFONT ABBEY 1142 - Near to Monasterboice in County Louth is the first Cistercian Abbey to be founded in Ireland. While only ruins remain, there are some interesting architectural details, such as a 2-story octagonal lavabo. The former abbey became a private manor house in 1539 and functioned as the headquarters of William of Orange (King William III) during the momentous Battle of the Boyne in 1690. The Treaty of Mellifont, which ended the 9 Years War, was also signed here in 1603.

**BATTLE OF THE BOYNE EXHIBITION- At the battleground site in Co. Meath there’s a small museum with exhibits pertaining to the bloody conflict between the Protestant Williamites, lead by King William III, and the Irish Catholic Jacobites, lead by King James. A young historian at the visitor’s center gave us an enthralling account of the background history and battle before we toured the well-curated exhibits. Fascinating for history buffs.

**EDEN RESTAURANT – Bellinter House. Now renamed Preston’s Restaurant, we enjoyed our dinner here so much that we returned the following evening. Set in a cozy but elegant space on a lower floor of the main house, the restaurant serves typical fare very well executed with fresh local ingredients. While we enjoyed all that we ate, we especially savored the steak, a tender filet served on a sizzling stone so you can choose how much, or little, to cook it. If you dine there and they’re offering the Chocolate Sphere for dessert, you’ll be sorry if you pass it up. Breakfast was excellent as well.

TUESDAY MAY 31 COUNTY MEATH

***BRU NA BOINNE COMPLEX & VISITOR CENTER 9:30 - 5:30 PM NEWGRANGE AND KNOWTH 3200 BC - You must arrive at the Visitor Center to start your tour of the Neolithic passage tombs at Knowth and Newgrange. This was one of the top sights on our itinerary, so I left nothing to chance and bought tickets online many weeks in advance. Since it’s close enough to Dublin for day trippers, the timed tours book up quickly and you cannot visit on your own without a guide. Tours were fully booked up on a weekday in May, so I can only imagine what it’s like during the high summer season. After checking in at the VC, you board a bus to the sites. Our guide was brilliant, and the tombs are stunning, some featuring enigmatic carvings. Each tour group is allowed to enter a specific tomb via a narrow, low height passage, but it’s worth the minor discomfort to see inside. A major highlight of the trip.

*THE HILL OF TARA - 10 - 5 The Hill of Tara features passage tombs built during the late Stone Age, but is most renowned as the seat of Irish kings during the Iron Age (600 BC - 400 AD). St. Patrick himself is said to have visited in the 5th C AD, and a statue onsite commemorates him. The most interesting remaining feature is Lia Fáil (Stone of Destiny), a tall phallus-shaped coronation stone, that reminded us of the Hindu Linga which represents the god Shiva.

***TRIM CASTLE 1172 - 1220 Maudlin Vale – 10 - 5 Last, and certainly not least, we toured Trim Castle, a massive 3-story Anglo-Norman keep built by the baron Hugh deLacy. There’s a moat, walls, towers and a gate house. You can visit the 3 acre grounds for free, but must pay for a guided tour to go inside, which is worth the cost. Our guide was humorous and informative, and the site is truly impressive. If it looks familiar, it may be because it was a film location for Braveheart.

WEDNESDAY JUNE 1 HOME

Bellinter House doesn’t serve breakfast until 8 am and our flight was scheduled for 9:20 am, so they kindly served us some cold food to eat. Before we left the hotel, we were notified that our flight was significantly delayed, so we regretted having skipped one of their delicious breakfasts. We hung out for a while but decided to head to the airport to return the car and in the hope that the flight time might be moved up a bit. It was actually delayed further and we had a long wait. The flight was late departing from the US so they only onboarded breakfast, even though we boarded well after lunch time, and the breakfast was awful even by airline standards. I cadged some additional nuts from a kind flight attendant. However, considering the nightmarish flight experiences that many travelers suffered in 2022, it could have been much worse, and we arrived home about 6 hours later than expected (no connection luckily). Since we only take carryon bags, at least they couldn’t lose our luggage. Despite the less-than-ideal ending, we still consider this to be one of our favorite trips. As you can see, we did a lot, however, if you only want to relax and enjoy outdoor activities or great music, and/or terrific food and drink, plus truly friendly, engaging people, you’ll have a wonderful time in Ireland.