Barbara & Stu's Excellent Vacations Great trips we have taken

We recently had dinner at a restaurant we’ve enjoyed on a few previous occasions and were disappointed in the food.  It turned out that there was a new chef.  Restaurants can change so quickly and often drastically that it’s difficult to rely on previous experiences; however, we still thought it might be useful to list places we’ve enjoyed as many have maintained their high standards.  There are lots of other places we like (especially in NYC), but we only listed those we’d been to most recently and liked the most.

AFRICA
ASIA
AUSTRALIA
EUROPE
NORTH AMERICA
SOUTH AMERICA

 

AFRICA

Kampala, Uganda

Emin Pasha - A boutique hotel that really feels like Africa, rather than some big, glitzy chain hotel which could be anywhere.  Their dining room, open, but partly under cover, is quite lovely with truly fine food, service and decor.  The photo below shows it decorated for Valentine's day.  Make reservations, and just in case they have the same chef, who screamed abuses and curses at his kitchen staff (which we heard since we arrived early before other diners and music drowned out his ravings) make the reservations for at least a half hour after they open.  It's worth it. http://www.eminpasha.com. 

 

Bel, Ombre, Mahe, Republic of the Seychelles
La Scala – The Italian/Continental food, particularly the seafood, was the best that we experienced in the Seychelles islands.  Lovely atmosphere and good service add to its pleasures.

Harare, Zimbabwe
La Fontaine Restaurant – Meikles Hotel – Excellent food, good wine, refined ambience and exceptional service.  http://www.meikles.com/

Cairo, Egypt
Arabesque – Oozing with local atmosphere, the food is delicious and the service is kind.

 

ASIA

Kathmandu, Nepal
Krishnarpan – Dwarika’s Hotel – You choose from several set menus with different numbers of courses (we had the 9-course) and are presented with a personalized menu with your name on it. The opulent decor, exotic atmosphere and captivating staff are matched by the lavish banquet of local delicacies.  One of the best dining experiences we’ve had anywhere.  www.dwarikas.com

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Lemongrass (District 1 – Saigon) – Contemporary style and wonderful Vietnamese food attract locals and foreigners alike to this small, popular restaurant. 

Mandarine (District 1 – Saigon) – Lushly romantic with exquisitely prepared and presented Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine and expert service.  Higher priced than most local places but still a bargain for Westerners and worth a splurge. 

Hoi An, Vietnam
Song Do Restaurant – Hoi An Riverside Resort – The attractive open-air restaurant in this gracious hotel serves some of the best food we had in Vietnam.  We highly recommend the fish with ginger.  Service was caring and efficient.  http://www.hoianriverresort.com/

Mermaid Restaurant – Excellent set menu – the stuffed squid was so exceptional that it’s the first time I saw Stu eat squid. 

Hue, Vietnam
Hoa Vien – Great place to try local Hue specialties, such as the crispy filled pancakes.  Everything was delicious here, the room was simple but nice and the staff was lovely.

Ha Noi, Vietnam
Bobby Chinn – If you’ve eaten enough pho and spring rolls and want a change of pace, this very modern, stylishly decorated, California-Asian fusion restaurant is perfect.  It’s even perfect if you just want a really fabulous meal.  The kitchen offers a variety of creative small dishes and you assemble your own tasting menu based on your appetite.  It’s a great way to try a lot of different things, and there was nothing we didn’t like.  High-priced for Vietnam but not for comparable eateries in other parts of the world.

Dac Kim Bun Cha – This veritable hole-in-the-wall frequented by locals serves only spring rolls, rice noodles and pork patties (bun cha) fried up in huge woks out front.  Seating is communal so it’s a nice opportunity to interact with local people, though it’s clear that this is a fast food experience, where people rush in and out for a quick bite.

Beijing, China
Li Jia Cai (Li Family Restaurant) – Even if the food weren’t as good as it is here, you shouldn’t pass up the opportunity to dine in one of the intimate rooms in this ancient traditional wooden family home.  The Imperial style cooking is simpler than you might imagine and there were a couple of odd dishes, but it was a fantastic feast.

Thimpu, Bhutan
Phuensum – Bhutanese food is generally much simpler than you’ll find in other Asian nations, yet tasty especially if you spice it up with the ubiquitous hot chilies.  We had our best meals in Bhutan at this small, friendly café located in an office building near the center of town.

 

AUSTRALIA

Sydney, NSW
Pier – We tried this restaurant on the recommendation of one of Stu’s Aussie colleagues and were thrilled with the recommendation. The setting on a pier in scenic Rose Bay showcases the city’s ample charms and the chef skillfully accentuates the extraordinary bounty of Australian seafood.  As busy as it was, the staff was adorable and even took the time to note down some wine suggestions in case we wanted to ship a case from the Australian Wine Center (which we’ve been known to do).

Update!   We visited again on the way home from Papua New Guinea, and if anything, it's now even better.  Chef/owner Greg Doyle (no, NOT the restaurant with the name Doyle in it) has perfected ensuring that your order arrives in front of you at the best possible moment.  We also got to speak with Greg for a while.  He's a delightful perfectionist who inspires great loyalty in his staff. http://www.pierrestaurant.com.au

Hobart, Tasmania
Lebrina (New Town) – Intimate dining rooms in a converted cottage with expansive views, superior cuisine, fine wine and professional service. 

Rosevears, Tasmania
Daniel Alps at Strathlynn Wine Center – An outpost of Pipers Brook Vineyards, the meals served in this handsome indoor/outdoor café overlooking the vineyards and the Tamar River valley are extraordinary. Delicious wine is expertly paired with the scrumptious food, and service is knowledgeable and amiable.  Lazily lingering over meals here was a high point of our peregrinations around Tasmania.  http://www.pbv.com.au/strathlynn.asp?Section=Cellar%20Doorand SubSection=Strathlynn

 

Richmond, Tasmania
Prospect House – Dinner at this romantic historic inn is wonderful and the service was warm as well as efficient.  If you stay overnight, the breakfast is ample and delicious, including such items as a bacon and egg soufflé.  http://www.prospect-house.com.au/

Hobart, Tasmania
Orizuru Sushi Bar (waterfront) – Extremely fresh, beautifully-prepared sushi and sashimi in a casual setting on the harbor.  http://www.mures.com.au/restaurants/orizuru.htm

Sheffield, Tasmania
Little Weindorfer’s – If you view ice cream as a meal (as Stu does), it makes sense to list Little Weindorfer’s as a restaurant.  This little shop serves rich, creamy, totally satisfying homemade ice cream.  Definitely not recommended for the arterially blocked.

Swansea, Tasmania
Kate’s Berry Farm – Also not a restaurant, but the berries and berry products, which are also served over excellent homemade ice cream as a double treat, are outstanding.  We ran out of the blueberry preserves that we brought home awhile ago and have been wishing we could just pop down to Kate’s to stock up again.  We haven’t found any that come close.

 

EUROPE

Paris, France
Guy Savoy (17th arr.) – Astounding food, charming staff, elegant décor – all the elements for a memorable dining experience in this exceptional restaurant.

L'Oulette (12th arr.)  Wonderful regional (southwestern) cuisine and wine for a reasonable price in an inviting room. Among the friendliest people you can imagine. One evening it was uncharacteristically slow and the maitre d' kept coming over to chat with us, discreetly between courses so he never interrupted
our meal, of course. We recommend taking a taxi as it's a bit out of the way, but worth the trip.

Taillevent (8th arr.)  In ways it is like a mix of Daniel and Picholine in NY. Superb food and service, and not only a warm and professional staff, but one that is respectfully playful with the diners. What a delight, and a truly world-class restaurant in a top eating city. http://www.taillevent.com/

Chartres, France


La Vielle Maison -- Classic French dishes prepared better than you can believe possible. As just a hint of what I'm writing, chef Bruno's sautéed foi gras was crunchy on the outside and liquid on the inside.   Our dear friend Gerard took us there and, even without the unmatchable company, the meal was one of the best we’ve had anywhere.  Update!  After nearly two years we were able to return, and if anything, this formerly superb restaurant is even better.  Most highly recommended.  Photo shows our party virtually closing the place, enjoying discussions with chef Bruno.

Erice, Sicily, Italy


Ristorante Monte San Giuliano – The eggplant rollatini melts in your mouth and the rest of the meal is equally delicious at this pretty restaurant in an old stone building.   The crowd was a congenial mix of visitors and locals.  Photo is of the entrance.

Agrigento, Sicily, Italy
Le Caprice – Set in an elaborately landscaped garden with a duck pond and corresponding waterfowl, this delightful place with indoor and outdoor seating served a mind-boggling selection of tasty hot and cold dishes in its antipasto buffet.  Service was friendly and efficient.

 

Siracusa, Sicily, Italy
Ionico a Rutta e Ciauli – Superb food served on a romantic outdoor patio overlooking the Ionian sea.  Our waiter could have charmed the snakes off the Medusa.  Our favorite restaurant in Sicily, not counting the agriturismo places.

Agricolo Limoneto – Farmers supplement their income by offering lodging and meals to travelers, a practice known as agriturismo. Barbara had read about this fruit farm so we went for a meal that reminded Barbara of the Sunday dinners at her Sicilian best friend’s house when she was in school - course after course of mouthwatering homemade specialties.  There’s no menu, you order drinks (water, local wine in a carafe, etc.) and the food just keeps coming.  We were the only guests who were not Italian – it was all couples, families, and groups of friends out for Sunday dinner.  Fabulous, authentic Sicilian experience.  http://www.illimoneto.it/english/index.htm

Valle dell’Alcantara
San Cataldo Agriturismo – Idyllic farm with far-ranging views run by an exceedingly lovely family. We had the best lunch of our trip here and one of the best meals.  We dream of returning to San Cataldo just for their homemade ricotta and tree-ripened peaches.  This would be a perfect place to stay for a few days just to relax, explore the countryside and experience real Sicilian hospitality and home cooking (especially if you weren’t lucky enough to have close Sicilian friends growing up).  http://www.agri3000.it/aziende/sicilia/sancataldoeng.htma

London, England
Orrery (Marylebone) –  Sleek décor, exceptional food, excellent service.  With the 1 July 2007 smoking ban our only objection to this restaurant has been removed..

The Sugar Club (Soho) – Contemporary New Zealand fusion cuisine in a fun, lively setting and decent prices.  With the 1 July 2007 smoking ban our only objection to this restaurant has been removed.  http://www.thesugarclub.co.uk/

 

Istanbul, Turkey
Develi – We enjoyed an array of delectable local specialties in this simple, family-oriented kebap restaurant.  We don’t recall seeing any other tourists when we ate there.  This was our favorite place in Istanbul, though we were astonished at how delicious the sis kebap was from a stall vendor at the Grand Bazaar.

Bodrum, Turkey
Antik Tiyatro Hotel  - The restaurant in this charming boutique hotel expertly serves exceptional Continental cuisine in a lovely room.

Goreme, Turkey
Ataman – Excellent dinners in a charming room with warm and efficient service.  You don’t have to stay at the hotel to eat here, but we recommend it.

Kusadasi, Turkey
Kazim Usta – Dining open-air right on the water, watching the fishermen plying their trade is an added treat at this simple, very friendly place that really knows how to grill fish.  We liked the food, staff and atmosphere so much we ate there both nights of our stay.

Bruges, Belgium
Patrick Devos - Zilveren Pauw – Restaurant quality in Belgium is generally high and this was our favorite of those we tried.  Lovely room, attentive staff and excellent food. http://www.patrickdevos.be

Belgian chocolate – Pierre Marcolini - While it’s not a restaurant, if you happen to be in Belgium, don’t miss the opportunity to try the chocolate from Pierre Marcolini.  Pure paradise.  Based on the web site, it looks as if they’ve opened branches in locations outside Brussels and Antwerp now. http://www.marcolini.be/

Prague, Czech Republic
Kampa Park (Kampa Island) – Smart, stylish modern restaurant right on the river, with friendly service, exceptional views and delicious food and wine.  Our personal favorite.  http://www.kampapark.com/

Malta
If you visit Malta, bring a hearty appetite – The Maltese restaurants have HUGE servings.  We did find three restaurants that only served very big servings, and at the same time were extremely good, and two of which were world class in quality.   The restaurants are:

Mondion at the Xara Palace Hotel in beautiful Mdina.  The room is set high above the city wall and the views are spectacular, matching the food and service.

 

Maji in Victoria on the island of Gozo.  Michael and Jason have thought of everything in designing this stylish, contemporary facility, and their risotto is one of the best we’ve had anywhere.  Chances are Michael or Jason will provide the warm, friendly, helpful service.

 

Ta Frenc is just a bit south of Victoria , on a country lane.  Beautiful, traditional Maltese design, wonderful food and service.

NORTH AMERICA

Boston, MA

Hamersley’s Bistro (South End) – We first tried Hamersley’s in its original small storefront location on Tremont and were very pleased that the move to a larger, and more handsome, location did not degrade the quality of the food or service at all.  There are many good restaurants in Boston, but this is always the first place that we return to.  http://www.hamersleysbistro.com/

 

Charleston, SC

Peninsula Grill in Planter’s Inn – Charleston is a good food town and Peninsula Grill is our top choice there.  Refined cuisine, good wines and fine service in a pleasing setting.  http://www.peninsulagrill.com/

Magnolia’s – We had a wonderful lunch at this popular Southern food eatery.  The clientele was a mix of tourists and locals and everyone appeared to having a grand ole time.  http://www.magnolias-blossom-cypress.com/magnolias/

 

Las Vegas, NV

Rosemary’s (Sahara Avenue) – This excellent contemporary American is well off-the-beaten-strip.  We really hate Las Vegas, but we really like this restaurant.  Incredible value for a top notch meal in a lovely room.  Better yet, we didn’t spot any slot machines on the premises.  If you get tired of the tacky and glitzy, this is a welcome respite.  http://www.rosemarysrestaurant.com/

 

Los Angeles, CA

Sona This fine restuarant, with warm, professional service, spacious, comfortable room and first class food would be in the top tier of restaurants in nearly any city.  Four of us went and enjoyed their tasting menu (two of us are fine cooks) and we all pronounced it a winner. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood.  310-659-7708. www.sonarestaurant.com.

 Providence holds two Michelin stars and definitely seems to deserve them.  Lovely decor, professional staff, first class food (though we like Sona just a bit more).  Try not to sit in the converted porch area since traffic noise can be annoying.  5955 Melrose Avenue.  323-460-4170.  www.providencela.com.

Xai Verandah Lounge is a beautiful facility with lovely service and, for brunch (we only tried it for brunch), very fine and varied Middle Eastern food. The photo above is not from their beautiful verandah.  7677 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood.

Melisse (Santa Monica) – A superior dining experience:  lovely décor, excellent service and exceptional food.  Our favorite restaurant in L.A. (though our favorite place to eat is Chez Kyrsten – our daughter’s home).  http://www.melisse.com/

JiRaffe (Santa Monica) – Attractive, happening atmosphere, good service, terrific food and wine.  http://www.jirafferestaurant.com/

Joe’s (Venice) – Consistently excellent and a great value considering the high quality of the food.  http://www.joesrestaurant.com/

Border Grill (Santa Monica) – L.A. is renowned for hole-in-the-wall dives with authentic Mexican street food.  This is a great choice for more refined Mexican cuisine.  Terrific Margaritas too.  http://www.bordergrill.com/BGSM/bgsm.htm

Versailles (multi-locations) – Inexpensive, totally delicious Cuban food.  Décor is “early cafeteria”, but you won’t get food like this in any cafeteria we’ve ever tried.  We like the one on Venice Blvd.  Everyone goes for the chicken, but we’re crazy about the garlicky, melt-in-your-mouth pork with rice, beans and gooey plantains.

 

 

Miami & Miami Beach

Azul - This elegantly beautiful, posh restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel puts a lie to the old saw that US restaurants in hotels or that have views cannot be top notch.  Azul is in a hotel and has a wonderful view, and their tasting menu stacks up to those at first-tier restaurants in Manhattan.  Add to that the lovely, warm staff and excellent wines and you have a winner.  If the humidity is not too high, and it is not sand fly season reserve a table outside.  Downtown at 500 Brickell Key Drive.

Escopazzo - This excellent neighborhood Italian restaurant, run by delightful chef/owner Giancarla is a real find.  One block off of the hot South Beach scene, it features all local, natural, organic ingredients, skillfully and imaginatively combined in bold flavors for a wonderful eating experience.  1311 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach.  305 674-9405.  http://www.escopazzo.com/home.html 

 

Montreal, Quebec

Toque – Toque has moved to new quarters, which is nice on two fronts, the old space was charming but a bit cramped, and it gives us an excuse to head up to Montreal to check out the new location.  Not only is the food out of this world, but we were very pleased with the service.  We fondly recall one very late, very leisurely tasting menu dinner where we were literally the last out and the staff kept coming over to chat and joke around with us.  The opposite of feeling as if we were being rushed out the door, we felt as if they were encouraging us to hang out.  It has maintained its intimate atmosphere in the new space. It’s a bargain for Americans due to the exchange rate, especially compared to the high end U.S. places among which it ranks.  http://www.restaurant-toque.com

 

New Orleans, LA

Brigtsen’s (Uptown near the river bend) – Food is one of the many reasons to visit New Orleans, and this has been our favorite restaurant in the Big Easy.  It’s far from the French Quarter but just a scenic street car ride the length of St. Charles Avenue through the Garden District.  Its sensibility is far from the tourist mills of the Quarter as well – heavenly local specialties, expertly prepared in a gracious cottage setting.  If you visit during Jazzfest in April (which we highly recommend) or during Mardi Gras, reserve well in advance, not just here but at all the better places.   http://www.brigtsens.com/

 

August -- Food in New Orleans as a whole has been slowly sliding, so it was an immense pleasure to find August, from celebrity chef John Besh.  This beautiful restuarant with its warm and well trained staff would be at home in the first tier of restaurants in any leading "food" city, such as Manhattan (assuming he could get the ingredients there), but at a price that's 1/3 to 1/2 of what you'd spend for a similar level of eating in Manhattan.  301 Tchoupitoulas St., just south of Canal St.  It's probably a good idea to reserve well in advance. (504) 299-9777

http://www.restaurantaugust.com.

Mother’s (Central business district) – The debris po’ boy will make you understand the fuss about these down-home overstuffed sandwiches and will also make your mouth do a happy dance.  On the tourist checklist, but worth waiting on the long lines.  (Debris is the melt-in-your-mouth pieces of roast beef that fall into the gravy.)

 

New York, NY

Picholine (Upper West Side) – We spend a lot of time at Lincoln Center and dine here frequently; it is our absolute favorite.  In the summer of 2006 they completed renovations of the public areas which are lovely..  We have never had a disappointing meal since it opened, or even one that was less than excellent.  This is a restaurant that seems to have improved over time, not that it needed much improvement. The menu changes seasonally, though certain signature dishes are usually offered, so we never get bored with the selections even when dining there multiple times per month.  The cheese cart is deservedly legendary as is their chief of cheeses, Max McCalman.  It’s very busy pre-performance and the staff makes sure you get out in time for your curtain, so it’s a treat to dine there now and then during the more relaxed theater hours.  Terrance Brennan’s more casual bistro, Artisanal, is also very good and a great place to sample unusual cheeses.

Daniel (upper East side) – This is the best gourmet restaurant that we’ve tried in New York and one of the best we’ve tried anywhere.  Others come close, but Daniel consistently delivers the perfect dining experience:  personable, impeccable service, exquisite décor, graceful ambience and exceptional food.  We always go for the tasting menus because the opportunity to try as many dishes as possible is irresistible.  With our most recent visit we found it as heavenly as ever.  Daniel Boulud’s other two restaurants, Café Boulud and DB Bistro Moderne, are also way above par.  http://www.danielnyc.com/daniel/main.html

 

11 Madison Park.  11 Madison Ave, New York 212 889-0905.  The first time we went here was a few months after it opened along with some friends we met during our Seychelles trip, and we found it to be a beautiful, airy space, with warm, competent staff, and very good food.  We went back now and then and found it similar.  Then in 2006 Daniel Humm took over as chef, and rather than drop off, the food became markedly better.  Since then it has continued to improve to the point that it is among the best in Manhattan.  The space now is even prettier, and the staff even more delightful.  http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com.

 

Per Se (Columbus Circle - opposite the S-W corner of Central Park) -- Rreservations are infuriatingly difficult to get.  That, and the price are outrageous.  When we finally got in (after more than a year of trying) we almost hoped it would be a disappointment, but it was not.  The room is gorgeous in its simplicity, with floor-to-ceiling glass overlooking Columbus Circle and Central Park.  The service and the food was even better than that.  We opted for the Kobe beef-like course on the tasting menu and it is the best beef we've ever tried.  The rest of the food held its own in comparison.  Good luck getting a reservation.  212 823-9335                  Update:  We returned 18 months after our first visit (yes, it took that long to get another reservation).  Two of the courses in the 9-course tasting menu were to die for.  Two more were very good.  The rest less so.  On top of that, the pacing of the courses was too quick, with little room to breathe between courses.  Probably no longer worth the visit.  It certainly does not have the consistency of the three restaurants listed above it.

 

Le Bernardin (51st St. between 6th and 7th Avenues) has been here for about two decades, and when we first went we though it was the best seafood in New York, and quite possibly the U.S.  We still think that.  The food is perfectly and imaginatively cooked, the service is first rate (though 20 years ago we thought it was stiff) and the room still is as warm, elegant and contemporary as ever.  http://www.le-bernardin.com/

 

Convivio (mid-town East, near the U.N., 45 Tudor City Place, 212 599-5045 ) – In the space that had been L'Impero (Scott Conant sold it, and opened another restaurant shown below - Scarpetta) is now a superb northern Italian, and the already lovely room is prettier.  Service, staff, food and room are all first rate, and for Manhattan fine dining, it's a relative bargain.  http://www.limpero.com/

Jean-Georges (Columbus Circle) – We have to admit that we haven’t been terribly impressed with Vongerichten’s lesser restaurants, but his flagship, Jean-Georges, is superb, second only to Daniel in our opinion.  http://www.jean-georges.com/

 

Morimoto (Chelsea) 88 10th Avenue, New York, NY212-989-8883.  We’ve found that celebrity chefs sometimes deliver the goods, and sometimes do not.  But Iron Chef  Masaharu Morimoto delivers in this very stylish (including the bathrooms and bar)Japanese restaurant with warm, friendly team of close-knit staffers and very fine food.  Though certainly not cheap, it is a good value compared to other restaurants of its caliber.  You can find it attached to Chelsea markets, with a separate entrance on 10th Avenue.  http://www.morimotonyc.com/

 

Perry Street at 176 Perry Street (the entrance is actually around the corner on West Street) is the latest entry from celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.  It is a very fine restaurant for its food, service and décor, and is a relative bargain among its peers, at less than half cost of J-G’s superb flagship (see above in this listing).  Highly recommended.  This site address is shared among all his restaurants: http://www.jean-georges.com/.  212 352-1900.

 

Maialino (Gramarcy Park) -- Another Danny Meyer restaurant, and as with his other places, this one has all warm, excellent staff members.  The food is classic Roman, and their specialty is maialino, a tender, moist, perfectly seasoned roast of suckling pig.  Everything else we tried there for a dinner and for a bruch are as remarkably good, and a fairly good value. 2 Lexington Avenu (Part of the Gramarcy Park Hotel).   (212) 777-2410.  http://www.maialinonyc.com. 

Veritas (Flatiron district) – Named for its superlative wine cellar (In vino, veritas), this gem has food to match the wine.  Elegant, modern dining room, lovely staff and consistently extraordinary cuisine add up to another favorite.  We liked the chef, Scott Bryan, in his previous restaurant Luma (in Chelsea), but he really shines here.   Don’t miss the tender braised veal (sometimes done with short ribs).  http://www.veritas-nyc.com/

 

Guantanamera (Hell's Kitchen/Theater District) -- We were in the mood for Cuban food near a theater, and we hit pay dirt here.  Inexpensive, warm, lovely staff and excellent food.  939 8th Avenue at 56th Street. (212) 262-5354

Periyali (Chelsea) – This is our favorite Greek restaurant (though we admit that we haven’t ventured out to Astoria which is supposed to have the very best in town).  Charming décor, friendly staff and delicious food.  There’s a fancy Greek seafood restaurant mid-town where you pay twice as much (if not more) and the fish we were served was overcooked and dry.  We prefer to eat here.   ****Update: We went back after too long and we will return often. The lovely decor is completely renovated and prettier, the staff is even friendlier, and the food is significanty better. http://www.periyali.com/

 

Sueños in Chelsea at 311 West 17th Street, just west of 8th Avenue has excellent Mexican food in a lovely setting with friendly service.  Executvie chef/owner Sue Torres is very talented.  It has been there since 2003, but we just found it.  212.243.1333    http://www.suenosnyc.com/

 

Telepan in the Upper West Side at 72 West 69th Street, just east of Columbus Avenue.  Modern, restful environment, friendly service and very good food.  Be sure to try their smoked trout appetizer.  With six continents of wide travel we’ve only found it better in one place.  Lunch, brunch or dinner. 212.580.4300 http://www.telepan-ny.com/default.htm

 

Blue Hill (Greenwich Village) – Handsome space, attentive staff, excellent new American menu.  The only time we were disappointed here was on Valentine’s Day recently when they served only finger food for some reason and it just didn’t work for us. The tasting menus are generally worth the price.  http://www.bluehillnyc.com/main.html

Esca is one of Mario Batali’s restaurants, and is quite different from his others.  Though also Italian, this one does seafood, and does it splendidly.  Lovely room, service and food, and in good weather there is ample space to eat outside as well.  At the corner of West 43rd Street and 9th Avenue, it is within the “theater district”, but the food is far, far better than its neighbors.  212-564-7272.   http://www.esca-nyc.com/index.html  

 

Lupa – 170 Thomson Street, Greenwich Village.  Mario Batale’s relatively bargain restaurant has been here since 1999 and is still excellent for food, service and value.  As with all of Batale’s restaurants, the staff is friendly and professional, serving Roman style cuisine.  It’s very popular, so you’ll need a reservation, but if you come very early you can walk in without waiting.  212 982-5089.  http://www.luparestaurant.com/

 

Mas in Greenwich Village at 39 Downing Street is a first tier French restuarant that though not inexpensive, is much less expensive than its uptown peers.  Lovely space, friendly service and an excellent chef make this a winner. You can order ala carte or either of two tasting menues - four course or six course.  And you can customize either, or give the chef free rein on the six course alternative.  212 255-1790.  Their website is very nice and gives you a good feel of the place:   http://www.masfarmhouse.com/.

 

Cookshop in Chelsea at the corner of W 20th Street and 10th Avenue is an attractive, neighborhood restaurant that always serves good food that is at leastsomewhat imaginative, regardless of dinner, brunch or lunch, all at a fair, moderate price.  The staff is efficient and friendly.  Make reservations, because it is justifiably popular.  (212) 924-4440. www.cookshopny.com.

 

Beacon (mid-town West) – One of the few places we bother booking  when we’re going to City Center or Carnegie Hall; we like this modern grill that much.  The space manages to be big and airy yet intimate at the same time. The wood-roasted oysters with shallots are a revelation for a raw oyster aficionado.  www.beaconnyc.com

Scarpetta – 14th Street, just east of 9th Avenue.  Scott Conant opened this lovely, new restaurant with excellent food, at the edge of the Meat Packing District, an area known for the club scene, seeing and being seen, and food far inferior to what one gets here.  Scott wisely includes some of his favorites from his prior restaurant, L’Impero, and thankfully his creamy polenta with wild mushroom truffle fricassee is among them.  Fine, warm service, lovely room, excellent food, and a good value.  We’ll be back.

 

Buddakan (Chelsea) -- We had always passed this place by, thinking because of its location attached to the northeast corner of Chelsea market, and its black-painted featureless, windowless exterior that it was a club.  Well, the exquisite bar does seem like a club, but as you are led past it to the stunning main diningroom, or the smaller, quieter library you discover a marvelous Chinese restaurant.  We'd rate it just short of perfect -- Had it been a bit quieter with a bit more mainstream music (the odd mix must have been for the club-like bar), and had the skin on the peking duck been a bit crisper are our only complaints.  Other wise, sevice, food and value are all first rate.  We will return, but now our problem is that we have too many favorites in Chelsea.  (212) 989-6699  75 9th Avenue.  http:// www.buddakannyc.com

Tocqueville (Union Square) – Serene space, excellent service and extraordinary food.  We keep meaning to go when we have time to try their tasting menu.  http://www.tocquevillerestaurant.com/

Omai (Chelsea) -- Excellent Vietnamese food (the best we've found outside of Vietnam), moderately priced for Manhattan, and everything we've had there has been superb.  It's rightfully very popular, so make reservations.  158 Ninth Ave. at 19th St., 212-633-0550  http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/omai/

Nook (Theater District) -- What a surprise!  This tiny, unpretentious restaurant is excellent and inexpensive.  The waiter (no room for more than one!) was one of the most delightful we've had in months, and the food coming out of the cramped kitchen was imaginatively conceived and expertly turned out. 746 Ninth Avenue, just north of 50th Street .

 

l'ecole (Soho) -- This is the restaurant of the French Culinary Insititute, open to the public.  It is very popular since it is a good value, providing near- first tier food, decor and service at second or third tier prices.  No it's not perfect, since students are doing the cooking, but it is very good, so you'd better make reservations. They are at 462 Broadway.  Call (212) 219-3300.  http://www.frenchculinary.com.


Katz’s Deli (lower East side) – We’d like to try other items but simply cannot resist the pastrami.  It’s not even as if we could each order different sandwiches and split them, as we often do at other places, since the sandwiches are so meat-packed that we have to share one to begin with.  Katz’s maintained its old lower East side atmosphere even though it’s become a popular tourist destination.  We may starve ourselves for a few days in advance to see if we can cram in a potato knish along with our pastrami one day.

 

The Wright (Upper East Side) -- Added to the Guggenheim Museum in late 2009 this beautiful space, which looks as though Wright had designed it himself in the mid '50s, provides excellent food, with warm, professional service.  So far we've just tried lunches but we will most certainly return.  5th Avenue at 88th Street, on the south end of the Guggenheim Museum. 

212 427-5690.  http://www.guggenheim.org/new-york/press-room/press-releases/press-release-archive/2009/3190-wright-release



Ocean Grill (Upper West Side) – We haven’t ever had dinner here, but we like to stop by for lunch on a Saturday, especially when we’re seeing an exhibit at the Natural History Museum across the street.  The food is always good, the décor is handsome and we’ve never had a waiter who wasn’t uncommonly genial.  Blue Fin in the theater district is also good, though earsplittlingly loud, and Blue Water Grill in Union Square is fun.  Great places to go with friends for dependably good, moderately-priced food and a young, lively scene. http://brguestrestaurants.com/

 

Rosa Mexicano (Upper West Side) – We’re addicted to the guacamole prepared tableside (we ask for extra spicy), but there are lots of delicious, creative Mexican dishes to be had here. Décor at the west side branch is sleek and contemporary, no kitsch in sight. http://www.rosamexicano.com/lincoln.html

Ouest  (Upper West Side) – Cozy, congenial bistro with delicious food and fine wine.

 

Modern - Bar Room at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) -- This is a beautiful room with warm, friendly, serice that is always just right.  The lunches here are absolutely superb, and though not inexpensive, they are a good value.  However, that's not the case for dinner, where the prices are higher, and the food not as good. http://www.themodernnyc.com/modern/modern.html.

 

Philadelphia, PA

Le Bec Fin – We’ve actually heard good things about this restaurant for over two decades and finally got a reservation and got around to trying it.  What a pleasure to find a fine, old restaurant that still has “got it”, and has not suffered from the common malady of having its celebrity chef either move-on or over-extend, thereby harming the restaurant.  We had the chef’s tasting menu (about 10 small courses).  Each course was excellent and not all that small.  The room is beautiful, and the staff is warm, friendly, professional and attentive. Reservations are required, and somewhat difficult to get.  http://www.lebecfin.com.

 

Quebec City, Quebec

Panache at the Auberge San Antoine.  A beautiful, rustic room in the Basse-Ville district of historic Quebec with first rate food, service and wine.  A bargain by New York standards, and a pleasant surprise to find a hotel restaurant this good.  10 Rue San Antoine Quebec City, (418) 692-1022.  http://www.saint-antoine.com/menu.html.

 

L’Initiale.  An elegantly plain room, perhaps just a touch too austere, but wonderful food, service and wines.  Around the corner from the Auberge San Antoine at 54 Rue Saint Pierre, Quebec City.  (418) 694-1818 www.restaurantinitiale.com.


Laurie Raphael.  A chic post modern room with warm friendly service and first rate food, though some of it did suffer from the chef’s slightly overdoing her need to be different.  117 rue Dalhousie, Old Port, Quebec City.  418 692-4555. 

http://www.laurieraphael.com/fr/restaurant/quebec/le_restaurant_quebec/index.php#

 

San Francisco, CA

Fringale (SoMa) – We’ve tried most of the fancier joints in town, but this wonderful French Basque remains our favorite in the picturesque city by the bay. http://www.fringalerestaurant.com

 

Santa Fe, NM

Santacafe – Consistently pleasing with excellent food, handsome décor, amiable service and outdoor dining during those balmy evenings.  http://www.santacafe.com/

Geronimo – Fabulous spot on gallery-gorged Canyon Road.  We only tried it once but would love to return for an encore.  Lovely on all counts.  http://www.geronimorestaurant.com/

 

 

Vancouver, British Columbia

Tojo’s – Astounding sushi and Japanese cooked food in a cleanly modern space with great views.  You have to try Tojo’s Tuna (sashimi with a special sauce).  We eat sushi about once a week and we liked this place better than Nobu in NYC.  http://www.tojos.com/

 

West Chester, PA

Simon Pearce – Simon Pearce hand blows the most exquisite glass objects and maintains lovely restaurants in their workshop locations in Vermont and the scenic Brandywine Valley in Pennsylvania.  You can spend an entertaining couple of hours watching a glass-blowing demonstration, browsing through their shop and dining very well in their fine, light-filled restaurant. http://www.simonpearce.com/

 

 

SOUTH AMERICA

Quito, Ecuador

Rincon La Ronda – Traditional Ecuadorian specialties in a festive room with the added pleasure of live music. A tourist locale, but the food is really delicious.  In our travels around Ecuador we ate at some fabulous little places and, at the time did not have the foresight to note down the names.  The trout in the mountainous regions is superb.  http://www.rinconlaronda.com/historia.htm

 

Lima, Peru

La Costa Verde – This upscale restaurant right on the water offers an astonishing array of delicious seafood in a monster buffet.  We normally don’t prefer buffets, but this one was exceptional, both in size and quality, and worth the price which is high by Peruvian standards.

 

Ica, Peru

Ocucaje Winery – We enjoyed a delicious meal with very good wine at this lovely family-run vineyard, which also offers accommodations.  If you visit, don’t pass up the chance to try the pisco and their special “love potion”.


www.barbara-and-stu.com